3M Headlight Restoration Kit

[VX KAT]

I know there's been many posts on headlight restoration kits and techniques (like Meguiars) but here's a 3M kit on ebay for a really good price. I used the individual 3M products to clear mine, worked great. I'm buying this just to have the convenience of the backing pad with the drill bit attached. Plus there's a $3 rebate, so it comes to $10.99.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-39...#ht_3824wt_963
from-
"The Queen of Ebay"

[SlowPro48]

Thanks for the tip, eBay queen, I just ordered a kit too. My headlights are still perfectly clear in the front where it matters for safety reasons but they're starting to show some hazing and crazing on top and it just doesn't look good - so I guess I should polish them in the next year or so.

One thing that bothers me about doing that though is that this polishing business will remove the hardcoat on the acrylic, making it easier to scratch the headlights from now on. Anybody have a fix for that or do you just commit to regular polishing from here on out? I remember a thread where a guy said he was going to follow up the polishing with some clearcoat but I don't think he specified what clearcoat he would use. I've got some left over from a CB350F restoration that would provide good UV and scratch protection but not too sure about spraying lenses with a solvent-based coating. Anybody tried it?

[vt_maverick]

Let us know how long it takes for them to get cloudy again. I've probably driven 10K since I did mine and I'm already seeing a little clouding (nowhere near what I had before though). I have a feeling that a little 3M Plastic Polish will bring it back but I haven't tried that yet.

[Luna X]

This is basically the same issue as our cladding. Once the hazing starts, you CAN bring the gloss and clarity back, but it will be temporary.

After a few months, depending on your area/climate, you'll be attacking it again.

One permanent solution, is to have them professionally clearcoated. They will then be wet sanded and buffed to a glass-like appearance. Plus, while you're at it, you could choose to slightly tint them (any color) for a custom appearance.

Since the new coating has the UV protection we all need, you won't have to worry about them hazing up for years...

[RickOKC]

THANK YOU! I picked this up on the way home and will recommend it as well.

I used the Mothers' Headlight Kit - which helped, then used it again which helped a little more, but I just wasn't happy with the results. I still had some crusty lookin' areas. This 3-M kit has been a tremendous improvement! I will say, though, that I'm glad I had the Mother's Kit which comes with small, flexible sanding pads (all sanding is done by hand.) I just didn't feel comfortable using the flat sanding pads on a drill (3-M Kit) near the curvy light horns.

[vt_maverick]

Yeah the horns were a major pain when I did mine as well, although I have to say the second headlight went much better once I was used to the required motion. Afraid I put a few, uh, practice divets in the first headlight, but I eventually got everything sanded even.

The 3M kit is amazing, maybe I'll have to look into those stick-on headlight covers that were for sale on eBay awhile back. Also made by 3M if I remember correctly, and were even custom-fitted for the VX (even had the horn section).

[VXJimD]

THANK YOU! I picked this up on the way home and will recommend it as well.

I used the Mothers' Headlight Kit - which helped, then used it again which helped a little more, but I just wasn't happy with the results. I still had some crusty lookin' areas. This 3-M kit has been a tremendous improvement! I will say, though, that I'm glad I had the Mother's Kit which comes with small, flexible sanding pads (all sanding is done by hand.) I just didn't feel comfortable using the flat sanding pads on a drill (3-M Kit) near the curvy light horns.

The crusty lookin' areas were simply areas that had not been sanded enough to remove the factory coating.

If you have crust, it is the factory coating degrading and you need to remove that coating, generally in its entirety.

Sanding can be a tedious process, to be sure, but the results are impressive when done right. The 3M kit seems to excel in this area.

Any time you "restore" a headlight, you will have to maintain it with a polish, and the Mothers PowerBall 4Lights kit includes 8 ounces of polish and there's enough life in the polishing ball to maintain several cars for some time to come. There's even an Xpel coupon if you opt for a protective film approach for future protection from impact and UV.

[etlsport]

does the 3M kit come with a UV coating? I just used a Sylvania kit from advanced auto.. came with sand paper, buffing compound and a UV coating thats supposed to keep the yellowing at bay for a while.. so far look better than any other kits ive used (but never used a 3m kit)

[vt_maverick]

I used to apply 3M Headlight/Plastic Cleaner then 3M Headlight/Plastic Polish to the headlights on my G35 with pretty good results. I never sanded those, just used a terry cloth to rub in the 3M goop. Worked pretty well, though I generally had to do it after each wash. (Add that to cladding dressing, tire black, and glass cleaner and there goes your entire day )

[RickOKC]

The crusty lookin' areas were simply areas that had not been sanded enough to remove the factory coating.

If you have crust, it is the factory coating degrading and you need to remove that coating, generally in its entirety.

"Crusty" really wasn't the word I should have used - "milky-looking" is much more accurate. Anyway, I'm positive you are right and it was the final bit of the factory coating. Once it was entirely gone, it looked awesome!

[RickOKC]

does the 3M kit come with a UV coating? I just used a Sylvania kit from advanced auto.. came with sand paper, buffing compound and a UV coating thats supposed to keep the yellowing at bay for a while.. so far look better than any other kits ive used (but never used a 3m kit)

I'm going to say it doesn't have any UV protection. I looked on the tiny little packet of polish and the 3M website and it wasn't mentioned anywhere.

I guess that's another reason I'm glad I had the Mother's kit. Their polish has UV protection and the instructions recommend reapplying it periodically (just wipe on & off with a rag.) I'll have to look tonight, but I think it even mentioned reapplying after each wash.

[VX KAT]

FYI- Aerospace Protectant 303 has SPF40 UV protection. I just quickly spray and wipe dry on my headlights.
303 Aerospace Protectant:
"SPF 40 SUNSCREEN" For Your Stuff
Developed for aerospace and aviation applications, 303 is the world's most effective UV screening product. Unlike other "protectant" products, 303 does not contain silicone oils, waxes, glycerin or petroleum distillates. 303 leaves a like-new, non-oily, anti-static finish that does not attract dust. Treated stay cleaner longer, reducing maintenance.

[RickOKC]

FYI- Aerospace Protectant 303 has SPF40 UV protection. I just quickly spray and wipe dry on my headlights.
303 Aerospace Protectant:
"SPF 40 SUNSCREEN" For Your Stuff
Developed for aerospace and aviation applications, 303 is the world's most effective UV screening product. Unlike other "protectant" products, 303 does not contain silicone oils, waxes, glycerin or petroleum distillates. 303 leaves a like-new, non-oily, anti-static finish that does not attract dust. Treated stay cleaner longer, reducing maintenance.

I'm glad you mentioned this!

Here's an interesting(?) oddball item - I think 303 reacts negatively with the factory headlight film.

Before I completely removed the factory coating using the 3M method, I accidentally got some 303 overspray on my headlights while treating my cladding. It left what looked like water spots and smears on the headlights and I wondered if it was permanent because I couldn't remove it with Windex or a regular wash.

Then I saw "Do not use on clear plastic" in the 303 directions. YIKES!

However, I also noticed that there has NEVER been any similar negative reaction on my big shiny perfect-looking rear taillights or any other lenses.

Hmmmmm, what is the difference?

After reading this tonight, I figured "what the heck, I'll play guinea pig"; I'll use the 3M stuff again if I need to. I intentionally sprayed some 303 on the headlights just to see what would happen and it was 100%, completely fine!

So... I wonder if 303 just doesn't like headlight coating films so I'd recommend being careful and testing 303 on "perfect", factory headlights.

[VX KAT]

Holy Moly! Good catch Rick! I didn't read that and have been using it on our other clear plastic headlights that are still factory finished I don't see any changes, maybe because I wipe it off pretty fast...I hope....

[RickOKC]

LOL! You're welcome Kat! Hey, I never would have read the directions again had my headlight not become spotty.

Wow, reason #3 I'm STILL glad I also bought the Mother's kit: That big ol' bottle of plastic polish.

I inherited a long scuff/scratch on the "carbon fiber" section of the passenger side door panel. I spent 3 or 4 minutes polishing by hand and...

BEFORE


AFTER


Not perfect, but much improved!


Another scuff on the rubber(?) section between the driver's window and the black spacer & glass toward the rear end:

BEFORE


AFTER


Again - better!