ohhhh.. it preaty purple also.....luvs KAT
ohhhh.. it preaty purple also.....luvs KAT
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...
Kat, from that pic I can tell you that strap is NOT 66 feet long (if it was it would be about the size of your spare tire when wound up like that). ARB is a very reputable name in off road and make nothing but top quality stuff so you can't go wrong with them. As far as doubling a strap...yes you can if you need a shorter strap for recovery. You don't gain or loose any strength. And even if it says it don't stretch it will to some degree...its just the nature of the material. Some will just have more elastic property than others depending on how they are made.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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as your in The USA I would sugest that you get the clevises from Tractor Supply, Warn ar good but way over priced. also TS has some heavy duty that dont screw together. thet are just push through. and then secured together with a spring pin.
If your going for a winch. then i would recomend warn unless you want a hydralic in which case Milemarker. (im not sure if you can run these off the stearing pump on these vehicles or not). also synthetic line. it is almost 2x stronger than the steel cable for the same size and much easyer to work with. there are a few good outlets on Ebay for this.
We're picking a Viking kinetic recovery rope, 3/4" x 30' 19,000 lb. MBS (it's just like the Super Yanker except black with blue loops, made more sense than white to me).
Deciding between Crosby or Green Pin 3/4" shackles - 4.75 ton WLL (9,500 lb)
or would 5/8" Crosby 3 1/4 ton WLL (6,500 lb) be OK?...
(only reason is there's a great deal on ebay for 4 new Crosby 5/8" for $35, but won't do it if they're not strong enough)
I know Billy you said 3/4" OK.
Noticed VX has a hook in front and eyelet on rear corner.
Why the 2 different types?
Are they strong enough to use or have you all added / welded on other types of hooks or loops?
So Sue, you got the 3/4" Crosby D's, correct? I believe you are trying to put 2 D-rings up front, is that right? The D-mounts are going to attach to what? I'm thinking that part is still in the concept phase...?
Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"
Exactly where I'm at now...Yes, got the 3/4" Crosbys. We're also need to do this on Dave's FJ, so we want to do both.
I just sent ya (and some others) an email (not PM) with several D mount options,...is there something up front to weld them to adequately or not? Does something have to be reinforced up there first?
EXACTLY! That's why I was asking those questions. Here's an idea for the VX (I'd be of no help regarding the FJ - maybe contact Jay Dunford thru the forum.) Tell me if you like this idea or not... the thin and flimsy tube bumper thingy behind the front cladding...
...could be replaced by a decent piece of square tube steel and bolted in its location, I believe. You could then tie in that stock vertical piece in front of it with a little effort. The bumper cladding would need a bit of a trim at the ventilation openings beside the license plate. Then tho the D-mounts could protrude thru those openings and you would otherwise have a stock appearing VX. Thru the process you could also choose to complicate things by incorporating a front hitch mount for a removable winch mount, a hook, a tow ball (which helps maneuvering trailers), and/or a flip-down license plate/front step... let me know if I confused you...
Anyway, I think figuring out what sort of mounting option you will have for the D-mounts should be done before picking out the mounts themselves. If you have to use round tubing then you would want the longer D-mounts, if you use the low-profile mounts you may not have enough room between the cladding and the D-rings. In any case, I would stay away from the 1/2" thick options and only look at the widest ones you can fit into the D-ring... lateral load precaution. I hope this helps you!
Or you could just chop the hell out of the front cladding and have a good fab shop/person build a custom bumper incorperating the mounts!
Thanks Justin & Billy-
One of my better traits has always been I know what I don't know & know when to ask before I fall off a cliff.......
Thanks for always grabbing me away from the cliff! After I get all the info, I'll give it to my off road shop so they can do it right .
Is that front hook strong enough or should I definitely plan on having at least one D-mount attached up front? I'm not going to do a Frankenbumper, or a Marlinstein or a front receiver....just one or two secure recovery points up front is all I'm after.
What have others done if you don't have a front receiver?
Dub said the back eyelet is only intended as a tie down for transport, so is there something strong enough in the BACK to weld a mount on?
Thanks for any & all input!
Here's a little reading material to further confuse you Sue...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_(metalworking) ...
Since I've used the front hook to recover, & to be recovered...
I'm thinking a rectangular base plate, with a clevis block welded to it, bolted to the frame in place of the stock hook, with the stoutest grade of metric hardware available, SHOULD be adaquate in most situations...thoughts?
That being said, I've used the stock transport tie down loop on the rear for recovery too, but have heard from those more experienced than I, that it's designed as a tie down for shipping only, & not up to the rigors of off road recovery.
That's why I only use my receiver hitch now, I know how built that is...
Last edited by Ldub : 01/27/2010 at 01:45 AM
as i'm sure you've seen before i use two D shackles on the stock recovery points and attach a bridle between them. It's more than sufficient. I have had a landrover discovery winching me out with another discovery, and a landcruiser as anchors and all 3 were moving along when id wouldn't come free!!!! (had to tie to a tree after that )
When not in use i just take the bridle off and leave the shackles
On the rear, again i just use the stock recovery point with a much larger D shackle
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