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Thread: proportioning brake system

  1. #1
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    proportioning brake system

    So I finally got my baby back after 6 weeks of shop time. New tranny, drives like a champ. During testing they mentioned how bad the brakes were. I told them that is just the way it is. New crossdrilled rotors, pads, everything is fine. I have driven one other, it was the same way. Our brakes are way undersized for the weight of the vehicle. He mentioned going to a proportional valve setup. Bypass ABS, which I hate anyway, and you can individually control brake pressure front/rear. The parts are Jeg, so they are definitely high quality. Looks like around 120 bucks or so for top of the line. I am going for it, can't get much worse than they are now. The valve setup lets me control pressure in very fine increments, so I can set it up however I like. Just gotta get the right size. http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Adju...62853/10002/-1

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  2. #2
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    What was so bad about the brakes? And would you be able to do all the labor yourself? (Sorry i'm a new)

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNUVX View Post
    What was so bad about the brakes? And would you be able to do all the labor yourself? (Sorry i'm a new)
    The VX brakes suck in general. My expedition stops in close to half the distance, no joke. ABS works fine, its just that we have single piston calipers, undersized rotors, and the truck weighs close to 5k lbs loaded. It is almost scary driving it around.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    The VX brakes suck in general. My expedition stops in close to half the distance, no joke. ABS works fine, its just that we have single piston calipers, undersized rotors, and the truck weighs close to 5k lbs loaded. It is almost scary driving it around.
    Marlin, sounds like you have the wrong pads fitted.
    My brakes cause the ABS to kick in when heavy braking from 70 mph on dry black top.
    My tyres are 32.4" dia, so that doesn't help.

    You cannot ask more of a set of brakes than that.

    Pad material can have a hugh affect on brake performance.
    Using long life hard pads can sacrifice up to about 40% stopping power over the softer pads.

    Worth a look anyway.

    PK
    Now that food has replaced sex in my life -

    I can't even get into my own pants!!

  5. #5
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    Yeah, my brakes have been what I would call soft ever since my VX was brand new. I've gone thru pads and rotors on both ends and a fluid flush 'n bleed and they've always been consistently soft. I think the steel braided brake lines are the only thing that'll make a big difference for me. I may get around to that one of these years.

    We do have a brake proportioning valve, but it's non-adjustable, I think. Maybe that's part of the problem for me. My original rear pads wore to a replacement level twenty thousand miles quicker than my fronts. It shoulda been the other way around. Fronts should always get more power than the rears.

    Marlin, if ya do get the adjustable valve, get the steel braided lines also to see the max benefit.

    Mark

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PK View Post
    Marlin, sounds like you have the wrong pads fitted.
    My brakes cause the ABS to kick in when heavy braking from 70 mph on dry black top.
    My tyres are 32.4" dia, so that doesn't help.

    You cannot ask more of a set of brakes than that.

    Pad material can have a hugh affect on brake performance.
    Using long life hard pads can sacrifice up to about 40% stopping power over the softer pads.

    Worth a look anyway.

    PK
    I will look into that. But for 120 bucks I can have 100% adjustable brakes....that is worth a look as well.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by deermagnet View Post
    Yeah, my brakes have been what I would call soft ever since my VX was brand new. I've gone thru pads and rotors on both ends and a fluid flush 'n bleed and they've always been consistently soft. I think the steel braided brake lines are the only thing that'll make a big difference for me. I may get around to that one of these years.

    We do have a brake proportioning valve, but it's non-adjustable, I think. Maybe that's part of the problem for me. My original rear pads wore to a replacement level twenty thousand miles quicker than my fronts. It shoulda been the other way around. Fronts should always get more power than the rears.

    Marlin, if ya do get the adjustable valve, get the steel braided lines also to see the max benefit.

    Mark
    From what I have looked at, the steel braided brake lines make no performance difference. They are just rubber hoses, wrapped in SS. It is more of a protection thing?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    They are just rubber hoses, wrapped in SS. It is more of a protection thing?
    That's what I thought too,... till I did the up grade. Pedal isn't nearly as soft as before
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowhard View Post
    That's what I thought too,... till I did the up grade. Pedal isn't nearly as soft as before
    So on a scale of 1 to 10 what would you rate them? i wanna improve my brakeing as well.

  10. #10
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    i've heard that the SS brake lines help a LOT!

    i looked into a wilwood version of the same thing chris for my VX... i wanted a front/back bias controller so that i could adjust it while offroading to help prevent rollovers....
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  11. #11
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    I've always read that the brakes for the VX were actually over-kill, being designed for the Trooper at almost another 1k in weight. A two piston design would be better, but that wasn't much of an option back when the VX was designed and built (both in availabilty and cost). I have the braided lines and it does help - I know when Joe Black drove it he was very surprised at how responsive they were compared to both his 99 Ironman and his 01 Dragon. I also have slotted and cross-drilled discs - not recommended for you off-roaders but for street driving they seem to work well with the standard pads.

    As with any vehicle, a lot just depends on the vehicle itself - lots of variation to the VX in all aspects (look at the oil consumption poll).

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowhard View Post
    That's what I thought too,... till I did the up grade. Pedal isn't nearly as soft as before
    What brand did you get? Every little bit helps, but I will be getting the Willwood, Jegs, or Baer proportioning setup first. I already have drilled rotors, slotted is not needed, and it only eats brake pads. I will be getting the new Goodyear MT Kevlars in a few weeks as well. It will be a 33.4" tire, so that won't help me any I suppose. I will add it to this thread when I am done. I will also see about the brake pads, I don't remember what I put on when I did the rotor upgrade last winter. It would be a shame to throw them away though, they only have about 5K miles on em. I will also try to get my new LED undercarriage lights installed in the next few days, but the weather isn't cooperating. I will also install my new steering gear box I got from an 02 trooper. No more steering slop!!!! I have adjusted the feedback as much as I can, the gears are just worn. Pretty soon it will be like a whole new truck, tight steering, solid braking, undercarriage bling, new shoes...almost feels like cheating

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    What brand did you get?
    I bought the set from Independent 4x with the longer hoses, https://www.independent4x.com/mercha...roducts_id=295

    I also did the R1 rotors with the OEM pads, (boy, those are spen-dee now). Not sure how each helped, just know that I have a much firmer pedal now.

  14. #14
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    From what I have looked at, the steel braided brake lines make no performance difference. They are just rubber hoses, wrapped in SS. It is more of a protection thing?
    The braided lines make a difference for sure. When you press the pedal down with the normal rubber lines, some of that hydraulic energy is being spent in the wrong direction because it is being used to press outwards on the lines causing them to bulge. This energy is totally wasted. The intent of stainless braided lines is to keep the rubber from bulging out as much so more energy is directed to the intended target being the brake piston. The stainless also no doubt provides an anti abrasion factor as well, but I think the lines are protected enough that that wouldn't be much of an issue anyway.Frankly I have the lines from independent and the glitzy colored hard plastic coating they have doesn't last more than a year or two. I had to have one of mine replaced by a local hydraulic line manufacturing company which made me a far superior replacement line that is actually DOT rated. The plastic coating they used was guaranteed not to crack off like the indy4x4 set. The cost was approximately the same. BTW mine are for sale if anyones interested.
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