Ascinder's 1-Ton VX... Cont'd

[Ascinder]

Well, it looks like bad weather this weekend, so maybe we will get some stuff done.....after all, that beer isn't going to drink itself In the spirit of this thread though, the diff covers are on their way as well as a pinion guard for the 14 bolt, and I'm going through all the brackets and tabs at ballistic right now to set up the link system. I am also looking really hard at this gas tank, since I will have to remove the stock one so the links can be properly positioned.



It is heavy duty 16 gauge 304 stainless steel. It's only 16 gallons though. Losing 6 gallons will suck a lot, but this new engine is supposed to be quite a bit more fuel efficient, so it might be a wash. I was getting a consistent 12MPG before, so hopefully I'll still see a boosted range with the new powerplant. If not, there's always Jerry cans As far as legalities go for replacing fuel tanks in vehicles, which Billy mentioned was a potential issue, I came across this:

What is a Legal Fuel Tank System?

In the aftermarket fuel tank system industry, there is a lot of confusion over what is “legal” when adding or replacing a fuel tank. We hope the following information helps clear up some of these very important concerns. Be advised that this information is not intended to be a complete list, but rather a general overview.

In order to address the question of which federal or state regulations a fuel system must meet or exceed, it is necessary to know the particular vehicle and fuel system being used. The following information is divided into two main categories, Vehicles less than 10,000 GVW, and vehicles greater than 10,000 GVW.

Regulations for vehicles less than 10,000 GVW
Regulations for vehicles greater than 10,000 GVW
ICC Fuel Tank Regulations
Refueling Tank Regulations
Miscellaneous Information
CAUTION Information


For Vehicles Less Than 10,000 GVW
TFI fuel systems meet FMVSS 301 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards), VESC-22 (Vehicle Equipment Safety Commission), NFPA 1192, ANSI 119.2, RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) regulations, CARB (California Air Resources Board), and EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) regulations.

FMVSS 301 states that anyone who alters a vehicle must meet or exceed the structural integrity and performance of the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) fuel system. A fuel system includes anything associated with fuel systems such as the fillneck, tank, gasoline lines, fuel pump, emission canister and fasteners. In other words, if an alterer adds an auxiliary system to a vehicle thereby reducing the performance of the fuel system, he or she has violated FMVSS 301 standards. An example of performance reduction could be if fuel from the original system leaked because the auxiliary system was gravity feeding into the original tank. This creates a real concern as it not only violates FMVSS 301 regulations, but is also a hazardous waste problem.

TFI’s inboard chassis frame and in-bed tank systems meet and exceed the OEM systems in the following areas:
1. TFI tanks are designed using 14-gauge aluminized steel as a minimum instead of the 22 gauge terneplate or plastic that OEM typically uses. Transfer Flow’s aluminum diamond plate in-bed tanks are made from 1/8” thick aluminum.

2. TFI tanks are fully baffled unlike OEM tanks which have no baffles.

3. At a minimum, TFI tanks are drop tested in accordance with VESC-22. When drop tested, they are fully filled with water and cannot leak. Many of TFI’s fuel systems are also crash tested to FMVSS 301 standards.

4. Tanks are 100% pressure tested. Some are tested using a sophisticated automatic Helium testing machine. This machine is capable of finding leaks with a helium concentration of less that 1.00E-7 liters/sec (leak size of 0.0000000315 in-sq or 3.15 E-8 in-sq).

5. TFI tank systems meet the fastener (strap) regulations specified by ANSI, NFPA, and required by RVIA (Recreation Vehicle Industry Association).

6. TFI systems meet CARB and EPA emissions regulations. We design our systems with the correct emission canister capacity necessary for gasoline applications. GM, Ford, Dodge, etc. all use different canisters with different absorption characteristics. Each TFI fuel system is designed to be compatible with that vehicle’s emissions system.

7. TFI fillneck designs meet CARB fuel fill regulations. We design our fillnecks with proper alpha and beta angles and correct inclination angles for gasoline and diesel applications.

8. TFI systems meet CARB and EPA requirements concerning fuel fill rates. This test verifies that our system fills at a minimum of 10 gallons per minute - a rate equal to that dispensed at most gas stations.

Although the tank in the above picture is not from the same company, I have called and confirmed it exceeds our stock tanks' standards, so we're safe legally. I am planning on running either a Bosch 044 high pressure fuel pump or a Walbro 255. The former is a pump used by the vast majority of pro rally racers worldwide, and in other forms of racing. The latter is also a high pressure pump that is used more in the rock crawling/offroad arena. I plan on mounting either of them externally, with the VX stock pump acting as a "feeder pump" to a small accumulator that is mounted inline between the two. I'd like to get this fuel system sorted out soon, so I can begin to plan the rest of the systems.

[nfpgasmask]

I think you'll be fine with 16 gallons. I mean, you can always carry a 5 gallon jerry can and that will give you basically the same capacity you had before. Plus, it's not like you will be going on cross country road trips in it all the time, so...

Yeah, bummer about the weather, it was soooo nice last weekend. We should get some work done and drink a lot. Maybe Sunday morning it will be clear enough to take the Troop out back with some toys and spray a little lead...

Bart

[ZEUS]

Nice! I installed an aluminum version of that tank in my CJ. Mine was without baffles so I ordered two fuel pickups that have flappers. When the fuel pickup goes dry on one side it shuts and only one pick up feeds fuel. I installed a Y-fitting on my high-volume in-tank Walbro pump and cut the fuel lines long enough to put the pickups in alternate corners... no fuel starvation on ascents, descents, or sidehilling. I chose to use a fuel sending unit that has no moving parts and reads more accurately: http://www.stewartwarner.com/Comp/prel/intel00.html
http://www.maximatech.com/products/sendersandsensors

It drops right in and is not affected by the fuel pickups. Finding out what ohms to use and what depth to use are the only issues. See ya in 25 hours or so!

Well, it looks like bad weather this weekend, so maybe we will get some stuff done.....after all, that beer isn't going to drink itself In the spirit of this thread though, the diff covers are on their way as well as a pinion guard for the 14 bolt, and I'm going through all the brackets and tabs at ballistic right now to set up the link system. I am also looking really hard at this gas tank, since I will have to remove the stock one so the links can be properly positioned.



It is heavy duty 16 gauge 304 stainless steel. It's only 16 gallons though. Losing 6 gallons will suck a lot, but this new engine is supposed to be quite a bit more fuel efficient, so it might be a wash. I was getting a consistent 12MPG before, so hopefully I'll still see a boosted range with the new powerplant. If not, there's always Jerry cans As far as legalities go for replacing fuel tanks in vehicles, which Billy mentioned was a potential issue, I came across this:



Although the tank in the above picture is not from the same company, I have called and confirmed it exceeds our stock tanks' standards, so we're safe legally. I am planning on running either a Bosch 044 high pressure fuel pump or a Walbro 255. The former is a pump used by the vast majority of pro rally racers worldwide, and in other forms of racing. The latter is also a high pressure pump that is used more in the rock crawling/offroad arena. I plan on mounting either of them externally, with the VX stock pump acting as a "feeder pump" to a small accumulator that is mounted inline between the two. I'd like to get this fuel system sorted out soon, so I can begin to plan the rest of the systems.

[Ascinder]

What did that sensor setup run you? Sounds great to me!! I guess with the system I'm running(returnless), the fuel can overheat in the rails at very high temperatures, so I have to figure out a fix for that too, probably just some heatwrap.
On a sidenote, those awesome ORI struts Billy mentioned are only available in the ST version right now. I am thinking more along the lines of the DP3s, but they aren't expected to be produced until next year due to machining issues being worked out.

[ZEUS]

I got the sensor for around $100 but I have seen them as cheap as $70 - I can't find a link to the fuel pickups tho... I might have to scrounge receipts to find info - I bought all that 4 or 5 years ago. Why aren't you using a return line?

What did that sensor setup run you? Sounds great to me!! I guess with the system I'm running(returnless), the fuel can overheat in the rails at very high temperatures, so I have to figure out a fix for that too, probably just some heatwrap.
On a sidenote, those awesome ORI struts Billy mentioned are only available in the ST version right now. I am thinking more along the lines of the DP3s, but they aren't expected to be produced until next year due to machining issues being worked out.

[uncle_asa]

Amazing Beau!! too cool!!

@ASA, Why not do a Cummins 4BT, or an Isuzu 4bd1t? They're the perfect engine for the VX IMO...

Plus there is a ton of good swap information out there, and kits to bolt to standard Chevy Trans.

Just a thought

Just because of short frame Bighorn will be more direct swap donor Though, lot of wiring issues anyway.

[Ascinder]

4BT's are also extremely heavy if I remember right, I was looking at putting one in a 1946 WDX dodge power wagon project awhile back. They're great for torque and good horepower, but if you do stuff like jump your ride at all, be prepared to be making trips to the body shop for a tweaked frame. I'm already very leery of my VX with this heavier engine and the winch and winch bumper up front.

[Ascinder]

Here's the progress so far. I'm still in the gutting the VX/accumulating parts stage, but at least it is progressing....

[nfpgasmask]

H O L Y P O O P ! ! !

Those jack stands look like they did the trick!!! Just be careful, bro!

Bart

[Ascinder]

The pads on the rear stands are 8" across and are stuck up in the old spring pockets. The fronts I removed the pads and they have a cup underneath which I have got jacked up around some bolts on the front frame rail. I also have two three ton jackstands supporting the sides where the rear trailing arms connect to the frame. Trust me when I say I'm paranoid about VX's falling on me

[ZEUS]

WOW!!! You go wildman! That's insane - when we talked about how much headroom you had in your garage I had no idea you were going to take up ALL of it! I'd say your just a bit more committed to the task now...

[Ascinder]

when we talked about how much headroom you had in your garage I had no idea you were going to take up ALL of it!

Yeah, the funny thing is, I still have about 18-24" until it hits the roof of the garage, but only about a foot until the windshield hits the beam. It doesn't matter though, I just wanted it up high enough so I don't have to weld on my back. I can also stick some mock up PVC axles and foam wheels under there to see how everything is going to articulate and what will hit.

I'd say your just a bit more committed to the task now...

Yeah, committed, that's what I'm going to be if I don't get this project finished

[ZEUS]

Have you had any breakthrus with the suspension geometry software? I like the idea of PVC axles and links with the rod ends taped to the fake links. Should help you eliminate axle steer upon flexing.

[Ascinder]

No breakthroughs yet. I have been trying to pin down what I want to use for my Hydro steering and also been trying to find a good set of full hydraulic capable highsteer arms that have adjustable kingpin preload centercaps. What do you think about this idea? What I want to do is get the double ended arms like these:



But instead of just getting one short and one double ended arm for crossover steering, I would get two double arms so that I could run the ram behind the differential, and a high mounted tierod across the front. The way I'm envisioning it is that the steering would be somewhat similar to a parallelogram, but one that would pivot off of the kingpin caps not the bases. Does that make sense? The only thing I'm running into is that I really don't like this picture:





It looks like the hydro side of the parallelogram would not be a straight line and may cause things to act funny. I think it might just be in my head though. Common sense dictates that if I have two(four) points that are equidistant from their respective pivot points, that all the angles will stay the same-parallelogram style. In other words, as long as the distance(and angles) between the two forward steering arms stays the same, the rears have to match too, so even if the hydro steer diagrams look funky, they should still work right anyways with a tierod added across the backs. Maybe I'm overthinking/analyzing this stuff though.......

[uncle_asa]

Just wondering if you considered to separate body from the frame, build whole suspension on the frame and then put the body back. I believe it would be much easier to weld, measure and finally less dangerous