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Thread: Removal of Front Propeller Shaft and Transfer Case?

  1. #16
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    This thread was brought up at a good time as I will be removing these things soon also.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  2. #17
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    This thread was brought up at a good time as I will be removing these things soon also.
    Yeah, but you'll prolly use a sawzall or jackhammer...

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    Yeah, but you'll prolly use a sawzall or jackhammer...
    If thats what it takes...

  4. #19
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    We couldnt get the rear flange loose on Mikes on the trail when we thought he busted the T-case. We ended up prying the front out since we couldnt get it past the diff flange (hopefully we didnt damage anything). But the rear wouldnt budge, we ended up just tying it up since we were doing the same with the rear shaft to just tow it out of there.
    --Dave

  5. #20
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    I soaked it pretty good with some PB blaster. I guess I will have to give in and take the skid plates off as well.
    Hopefully the damn thing will fall out with the first love "tap" with the 3lb sledge.

    I had to pull it out. Its been crackling for some time when I back up or go over the curb in the driveway. The other day, it started vibrating at lower speeds, I could feel it at lower speeds. The front CV is toast! The boot is just about non-existent! All the grease is spattered in a nice circle around the front joint, I think of it as free corrosion protection...

    The ultimate cause of my driveshaft failure is lowering the front end. When I did the diff drop, I never lifted the front end back up to the height I had it before, this is because I needed to reindex the torsion bar on the passenger side from doing the superflexy IFS install. Once I trailed it with the front lowered, I was amazed at the increase in performance and ride, I never bothered. I also never bothered to note that my drive shaft CV was at a negative angle So, for those that want to lower their VX, be careful, there may be more issues in the future (besides the fact of removing any ability to get away from zombies or erupting volcanoes)

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  6. #21
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    i took my front propellar out last week. cv's on passenger side are toast...wobble wobble cluck cluck. Easy way for the front part of it to come out is to jack up the transfer case to put it at an angle. The rear of it came out by putting a cold chisel and 3lb hammer in between the TC and shaft. rides a lot better, still have the problem but just doesn't seem as bad. never had to take the crossmember out as well.

  7. #22
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    Marlin, why would lowering/lifting your vx affect the prop shaft...the pumpkin stays in the same place?
    The drop bracket install on the other hand...

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Marlin, why would lowering/lifting your vx affect the prop shaft...the pumpkin stays in the same place?
    Thats what make me wonder about the cause of the "rumble strip" noise like Cece and Kat both got after lifting theirs. Unplugging the front TOD sensor makes it go away but the only thing that changes on the front end is cv angles which shouldnt matter since they are constant velocity.

  9. #24
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    Hmmm, I was thinking that lifting the front end would change the angle of the drive shaft. As I crank the front end up, the front diff goes up as well. Now that I look at it, the angle is changed at the CVs, making the actual pivot point at the inner CV joint, not transfer case like I was thinking.

    Looks like I am screwed.

    On a happy note, I got the drive shaft out, soaked with PB blaster last night, had to pull all the skid plates off, chisel and hammer...POP! Came right out. It does seem a little peppier, but that may be psychological. Still making creaking noises. I had the wife slowly back in and out of the driveway, still can't tell where its coming from, its not the CVs, since they aren't turning, sounds like its in the suspension, but nothing is moving that I can see and I really can't pinpoint the sound. Perhaps it could be a bent shock? My rear drive shaft should be done tomorrow. I will swap that and see if the noise goes away. (extra drive shaft lol. I could see some folks wondering "How is he test driving with no front or rear driveshaft?")

  10. #25
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    With my luck, it will turn out to be a rock inside the brakes or something silly like that. Its more of a creaking sound, not a rubbing, but a popping/creaking. Like when you are behind someone with slow full rear flex, you can hear everything creaking as various parts move. It makes me think of that sound, its only at slow speeds on incline(ie driveway or when first accelerating/decelerating)

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    With my luck, it will turn out to be a rock inside the brakes or something silly like that. Its more of a creaking sound, not a rubbing, but a popping/creaking. Like when you are behind someone with slow full rear flex, you can hear everything creaking as various parts move. It makes me think of that sound, its only at slow speeds on incline(ie driveway or when first accelerating/decelerating)
    Grease your sway bar bushings...

  12. #27
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    You also have rubber bushings on your control arms...dust/dirt/grime will cause them to creak.

  13. #28
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    I just did the swaybar bushings for the URE trip, the control arm bushings are definitely a possibility as well. They are pretty muddy up in there. I will try pressure washing it tomorrow and see where I get. Thanks for the tips guys.

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