My maxed out suspension lift :)

[tom4bren]

Looks great...

Could definitely use some more rubber though

So you installed new CV drop brackets, and now you're back to a full torsion crank ??

I'm looking forward to doing mine!

The brackets just drop the differential. They don't effect the suspension at all.

[VXorado]

Nicely done, I have a similar idea once I get those diff drop brackets installed (which isn't happening any time soon).

You gotta get 35s now!!

[LittleBeast]

How do you get it sitting so level? I have the 912's and mine has a slightly nose down stance

Where can I get me some of them spacers?

Did you have any problems with brake pipes or shock travel etc?

Torsion bars are cranked quite a bit, and I have the diff drop which helps CV angles.

As Larry said the spacers are available at Independent4x , as for brake lines, yes I have the steel braided extended brake line kit from Independent4x or I could not have done this at all. Shock travel is limiting my down travel right now by about 4-5" right now, and since I already extended my bumpstops on the rear I will be considering some new shocks in the rear possibly.

Tools are your friend...

15 buck$ & your problem is solved...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980

Haha, that would makes things easier, what is the fun in that? Yeah if I have to remove them I will pick that up

I have mine raised 14 turns on the front (about 3", maybe more) and developed a nasty grind in the CV joint on tight turns in 4WD so i need to let it back down again, diff drop is a good idea but counter productive in trying to get ground clearance for me as im not going larger on the tyres any time soon.

I thought the same thing about the diff drop loosing ground clearance and all, but really you are not loosing any ground clearance if you modify the cross member. I just chose to put the cross member extension brackets on there until I decide on a local welder to do the mod to the cross member so I won't loose any ground clearance at all.

Did you have to creank the t-bars any more or is that still the same from your initial lift?

Only problem is the rear axle is creeping too far forward. Ldub and I were talking about that the other day. Gonna need some longer links to center the wheel in the well to get maximum clearance.

I did not do anything to the torsion bars this time around, still the same from the initial lift.

I was thinking the same thing and already started a thread about the options for moving the rear axle back just a little:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=17430

What about a noise from joint? I lifted my VX aprox 2" and have bad noise betwen 100 and 120 km/h.

As has been discussed before a lot of these weird noises can be addressed. Mine has gone away as the tires wear more even and I played around with driveline angles by playing around with the torsion bar crank. Seems that we need a little tilt forward with the rear slightly higher than the front to get rid of the whine. Mine has gone away over time.

Nice, but I HATE wheel well. Get some more rubber in there to cover those eye-sores.

They are coming soon, I am trying to find something I like that is around 35" x 13.5" or so.

So you installed new CV drop brackets, and now you're back to a full torsion crank ??

I don't know about "full" I still have some room to go up, and I could always just reindex them, but yeah I have the CV drop brackets and a pretty mean torsion crank on the front to go along with the 4.77 gears.

So do you now have to get clearance from the tower before entering local airspace?

Actually now my antenna hits the garage on the way out, I still haven't gotten used to that Also it is slightly taller to get into now, and I cannot see out of the back window as nicely as I used to, but my modified higher rear view mirror mount still is helping with that. Also braking seems more responsive for some odd reason, and it seems to take speed bumps better now.

[pbkid]

hey, if you decide you want someone to take those terra-grapplers off your hands you can send em out here to colorado

just playing- ride looks great!

[AlaskaVX]

I will pray for your CV's if you pray for mine LOL.

I have the OME 912's, 1" spring spacers, 1.5" drop brackets, 33" tires and I can't keep a CV around for more than 6 months. I think I am going to end up dropping the diff another 1". The ground clearance up front is still WAY more than enough when you consider your rear axle has to go over whatever your front did.

[Marlin]

Hmmm, I must be lucky. I cranked the torsion bar as far as I could without reindexing the bolts. I have the 919s in the rear. Been 1 year, I have wheeled it and mudded it, original CVs and boots as far as I can tell. No problems so far!!!! (Fingers crossed)

[Ascinder]

To answer some questions or confusion earlier in this thread, you don't have to crank the piss out of your torsion bars to lift your VX. You can re-index the bars so they don't get overstressed from being cranked on. You simply uncrank the bars with the VX supported on jackstands, counting the turns it takes until they are unloaded. Then you remove the bolts on the brackets holding the bars to the A-arms. This is a good time to index mark both the side of the brackets and torsion bars for later so you have a reference. You then pull the torsion bars to the rear and allow the A-arms to come down to the position you want them to sit at for your desired tires/ride height. Remove the brackets from the bars and count how many splines you have to rotate them in order to line up again with the holes on the A-arms. You reinstall everything and let the VX down from the stands. It will likely squat onto the tires, or the tires will be close to the wheel well, this is when you start cranking for your desired springiness and stiffness. Another thing to remember while you're doing all this is that the thinner (lower profile) bumpstops you put in, the lower your A-arms can droop, and as a result, the higher your VX can be lifted. The bumpstops for the front are under the upper A-arm. Doing this indexing mod will place less stress on your torsion bars making them last longer, retain their springiness longer and keep your ride height correct longer. It will also reduce the shock loads from suspension cycling offroad so you don't break them while wheeling.

[Ldub]

To answer some questions or confusion earlier in this thread, you don't have to crank the piss out of your torsion bars to lift your VX. You can re-index the bars so they don't get overstressed from being cranked on. Doing this indexing mod will place less stress on your torsion bars making them last longer, retain their springiness longer and keep your ride height correct longer. It will also reduce the shock loads from suspension cycling offroad so you don't break them while wheeling.

I've got a question on your theory Bro...
Isn't the same amount of torsional force required to lift the same load?
Maybe I'm looking at this from the wrong perspective, but it seems to me that no matter where the torsion bar is indexed, you're gonna have to apply the same amount of torsional force (twist) to lift the weight.
Granted, you will have more threads to work with on the adjusters after re-indexing, but that's not changing the force required to lift the same amount of weight.
Just thinkin' out loud, not tryin' to pick on ya......

[Ascinder]

Yes, the required force(tension) in this case placed on the bars is the same. The only difference is that when people lift their vx's they usually just crank the bars harder which as we all know puts more stress on them. They are still supporting the same weight, they are just lifting it higher in this case by putting more of a "load" on the bars. When you re-index, it's like putting the load on your bars back to stock. The bars are supporting the same weight again, but they aren't under the same tension as if you just added a bunch of cranks to them, it's closer to or equal to stock tension. Hope this clears up the reasons for re-indexing.

[vt_maverick]

I knew I should have payed more attention in physics class...

[tom4bren]

I knew I should have payed more attention in physics class...

I'm trying to give Ascinder the benefit of the doubt but I'm kinda leaning towards Mr. Dub's viewpoint at the moment.

[VX1032]

Only problem is the rear axle is creeping too far forward. Ldub and I were talking about that the other day. Gonna need some longer links to center the wheel in the well to get maximum clearance.

As he said, any bigger tire is going to hit the front of that wheel well under compression. Need to call Indy4X and get a set of longer rear links made up.

[Ldub]

Sorry Beau, but I just can't get past the fact that the same amount of force is required to lift the same amount of weight to the same height. It shouldn't matter if the bar ends are in position "A" or position "B"...

[LittleBeast]

As he said, any bigger tire is going to hit the front of that wheel well under compression. Need to call Indy4X and get a set of longer rear links made up.

I was thinking the same thing and already started a thread about the options for moving the rear axle back just a little:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=17430

Indy already makes adjustable links, and I think they might do the trick. I do not want it to be too much different, juts a little bit farther back in the wheel well so that it won't hit the gas tank or the back side cladding on compression, and still line up with the factory spring placement on the top side.

Update: I just got the phone with the guys at Indy4x and YES if you want to change your wheel base by up to 3" you would just want to buy the rear adjustable upper link ($220) and rear lower adjustable links ($460), actually they have over 4" of adjustment, but he said you would not want to adjust over 3", I am thinking I only need about 1-1/2" or 2" anyways. This will in fact push the rear tires back in the rear wheel well, and you can also adjust your pinion angle which is basically where your rear diff is pointing and thus how much of an angle your u-joints on your axle have to handle. I look forward to this mod soon. Under $700 to move your rear tires and better align your rear diff to axle. I can't wait

[So-CalVX]

And here I just bought the OME912 springs and saw the 2" spacers so I bought them too thinking I could just throw them in the bee and crank the bars to get a nice lift... Am I wrong? Do I need the diff drop brackets, longer bump stops and new longer shocks to go with this (supposed 5") lift I purchased?
And if I left anything else out I would need feel free to clue me in...

By the way LB.... DAAAAMN! I luv the look... Ebony would have been acceptable (and is my second color choice on the VX) had the bee not been yellow. Ur VX is crazy