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Thread: Idle probs FIXED!!

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
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    2000, Kaiser, #0016
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    Idle probs FIXED!!

    I never posted this issue with my 2000 kaiser, instead lurked the forums and searched to find the solution to my idle probs.

    Basically my idle was high, intermittent but steadily got worse over time. It would idle about 1500-2000 RPM sometimes higher. It began intermittent, then evolved to a steady prob. Once it got so bad that I could idle at 35mph down the street, I figured it was time to do something, and my fuel consumption was horrible.

    Began with cleaning the MAF sensor with MAF safe cleaner. No joy.

    Then cleaned out the throttle body which had a brown flaky dusty buildup. Used regular carb cleaner on that, cleaned up as best I could and shot the cleaner thru the throttle boddy "flap" via propping it open with a screwdriver and shooting the cleaner deep inside. Brownish varnish colored effluent came out, so I continued to spray and gently wipe the innards till no trace of brown was flowing out under the bottom of the flap valve and no brownish flakry dust was evident. Having read here on the forums that a intake manifold gasket may cause idle issues, and since I had a can of carb cleaner/ starter fluid cleaner in hand I sprayed around the intake gaskets while running to see if the engine would respond via sucking in the fluid thru gasket cracks. No joy. No leaks obvious and the idle probs continued.

    Then cleaned out the pcv valve was really nasty, tho the valve had rattle to it (as it should if you remove it and shake it meaning the internal valve CAN move) when I cleaned it out with regular carb cleaner all sorts of nasty brown stuff came out. Used about 1/4 spray bottle of carb cleaner to do that alone till the cleaner came out reasonably clear and the black carbon buildup was not so bad. I could tell the internal valve workngs were moving better as evidenced by a more dramatic rattle when shaken. Moderate joy! The engine ran smoother, acceleration was much improved and smoother and more responsive. But the idle probs were as bad as ever.

    Thanks to this forum I had a few more ideas. I removed the IAC (Idle Air Control valve) Inside it was nasty nasy with carbon. In fact as soon a it was removed a "chunk" of carbon about the size of a fingernail tip fell out of the IAC cavity. I cleaned the valve itself and its hole as best I could. The hole where the IAC sat came clean fairly quickly, I used regular carb cleaner, again till the effluent ran fairly clear and no black carbon evident. The IAC valve itself was prolly good enough to re-use after cleaning as best I could with carb cleaner, but hardened deposits on the spring and plunger would not go easy. Luckily I went to autozone and had purchased a replacement just in case. Replaced the valve. More moderate joy! The idle probs were not steady anymore, but intermittent again and unpredictable. At least it would SOMETIMES idle ok.

    While at autozone I also picked up a TPS (throttle position sensor) simply because if all I had done had not worked, the TPS was the last of the EASY fixes here on the forum. Removed the TPS, there was some dirt in there, and the contacts where the plastic meets the metal tougne of the throttle control had some black build up. Lord only knows why, as the TPS is a fairly simple and sealed unit with no accessible innards to clean. I distrusted the black buildup on the plastics tho, and replaced the TPS too.

    Starting up the VX was a bit chuggy, and the idle did not submit immediately. I ran it up to 3000 rpm for a few secs, then let off the throttle, it went down to 1500. I turned off the Air conditioner and all other accessories, and reved up again. Idles back down to 1000! Turned off engine, started again idle went to 2000, then went back down to 1000 on its own! This was starting to look good.

    Turned off the engine, waited 30 secs, and started again. Idle at 1500, turned on the air conditioning, idled at 1000. Cycled thu gears to see whta it would do under a modrate load, and idle went to 1000 under load of the AC and in gear!! Stil a bit high when not under load of the ac or in gear.

    Drove around the like that, starting/stopping, testing all gears, ac on/off, stereo on/off to test the electrical load. Then took it back home. I knew I was 90% good at that point. The went home and shut it off.

    I took the time to put my tools away, clean up and let the VX sit and think abuot it for a few minutes. (yes vehicles think, I fix computers for a living and I know they can be intimidated into working correctly if you just show it who is boss! j/k kinda lol)

    Went back out, fired up the VX, idle was about 900... YAY!! Turned on Air Conditioning, idle about 850. Turned off Air Conditioning, put in gear, idle didnt change. Turned on AC and stereo loud... no change in idle. Took it for a ride for a few miles, smooth accell, quiet engine, ran it thru all gears a few times, stopped at stop lights just normal stuff. Idle is rock solid.

    Took it back home, let it sit and think some more (hehe) then took it for a 2 hour drive to Florida. Sweet, all the way. No idle probs. Engine sounds better than ever and throttle up is as smooth as throttle down. JOY!!!

    I know some ppl here say about 750 is normal idle, but I'm happy right now with approx 850-900. At least I dont have to foot the brakes sitting at stop lights.

    I thank you all at this forum for helping me tackle this myself. Total work time was about 3 hours, total research time was about 15 hours here on the forums (but I'm kinda anal about reasearch since I'm not much of a greasemonkey). Total spending breaks down approx:

    $7 for CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner
    $6 for Chemtool carb and throttlebody cleaner
    $10 for Seafoam sensor safe general cleaner (which i did not use much of, but prolly should have been the first thing to try but not sure if it is MAF safe)

    ~ $45 for the Air Idle Control Valve (autozone)

    ~ $22 for the Throttle Position Sensor (autozone)

    Total $90.

    This does not include tools such as a #20 Torx bit for removing the parts, screwdrivers etc (all that stuff I had already, and so should you!)

    Total actual parts cleaning/replacements time about 1.5 hours. Should be about 30-40 mins if you know what yer doing.

    In short, THANK YOU XV.INFO!!!! Too many posts and ppl to mention, I wish I could thank you all individually for your efforts.

    I know its not perfect, but this poor vehicle was neglected for years by the original owner, I know I'm just trying to mop up after years of neglect with very little resources at my disposal, and you folx come thru like champs.

    THX again,

    Josh

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    10,613
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    Thumbs up

    As always...I love a story with a happy ending...

    Glad you finally got this problem handled.

    Let us know if the idle goes down to 750 in the days to come, after the ECU has more time to "think"...

    WELL DONE !......

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Sep 2002
    Location
    12 Mini Cooper Coupe S fully modded and tuned!, 01 Kaiser VX #1209 RIP, 01 Kaiser VX #0664 Clone
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    1,678
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    Hey grif can you tell me where the throttle position sensor is located, I am having your issues and have not replaced that.....
    Ask forgiveness, not permission.

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Sep 2002
    Location
    12 Mini Cooper Coupe S fully modded and tuned!, 01 Kaiser VX #1209 RIP, 01 Kaiser VX #0664 Clone
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    forget it, I am picking a new sensor up on way home and I will play with my throttle body tonight and find it!

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Jun 2007
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    2001, Proton
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    Talking so

    Quote Originally Posted by VX crazy View Post
    forget it, I am picking a new sensor up on way home and I will play with my throttle body tonight and find it!
    Is that what they are calling it nowadays?

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Aug 2005
    Location
    1999, silver, 0887
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    Did you check for OBDII codes? Are you running a stock OEM air filter? If not try it, it gets you back to 750.

  7. #7
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
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    2000, Kaiser, #0016
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksambo View Post
    Did you check for OBDII codes? Are you running a stock OEM air filter? If not try it, it gets you back to 750.
    When I had the issue, it was throwing no codes whatsoever. Suprising yes, but only consider OBDII was mandated by the govt in '98 year vehicles or later. OBDII was kinda in its infancy in all our VX's. It has matured since then to include much more information.

  8. #8
    Member Since
    Jul 2008
    Location
    1999, Astral Silver, VX, 1508
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    Thumbs up

    Thanks for the detail feedback and itemization (or process of elimination for that matter) as mine is doing the intermitt. high idle deal as well and for $90.00 and some time, it sounds like a no brainer. Once again, thanks for your time and effort!!
    Larry S.
    99 Astral Silver VX (176k)
    91 Porsche 928 S4 (73k)

  9. #9
    Member Since
    Sep 2002
    Location
    12 Mini Cooper Coupe S fully modded and tuned!, 01 Kaiser VX #1209 RIP, 01 Kaiser VX #0664 Clone
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    So far so good, I replaced idle control valve, instead of just cleaning like normal, and no change, than replaced throttle position sensor, which I have never done, and big difference, not sure it was ever that smooth of an idle......right at about 800 idleing..so perfect. And no codes here either or it would be tons easier......fingers crossed!

  10. #10
    Member Since
    Jun 2004
    Location
    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Quote Originally Posted by VX crazy View Post
    So far so good, I replaced idle control valve, instead of just cleaning like normal, and no change, than replaced throttle position sensor, which I have never done, and big difference, not sure it was ever that smooth of an idle......right at about 800 idleing..so perfect. And no codes here either or it would be tons easier......fingers crossed!
    X-2...finnerz crossed on this end too...

  11. #11
    Member Since
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by lasturbo View Post
    Thanks for the detail feedback and itemization (or process of elimination for that matter) as mine is doing the intermitt. high idle deal as well and for $90.00 and some time, it sounds like a no brainer. Once again, thanks for your time and effort!!

    I did the throttle position sensor and idle control valve with Autozone parts (Duralast - 2 year warranty) and my idle is fixed!! I also cleaned the throttle body and threw another PCV valve as well. SO far SO good!! Parts were $76.42 OTD from Autozone in Mira Mesa, CA (suburb of San Diego County).

    PCV Valve: Luber-Finer PCV1193 $3.29
    Idle Valve: Duralast AC143 $44.99
    TPS: Duralast TPS121 $21.99

  12. #12
    Member Since
    Feb 2009
    Location
    1999,silver, 1516
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    I had a problem with stalling randomly and running hot. It was driving me nuts. I don't have a check engine light (PO killed it I assume).
    I had replaced the fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter but still no change. I finally borrowed my brother's scan tool and found a couple o2 sensors reading lean and a MAF code, along with an EGR code. I cleaned the MAF with spray cleaner and that seems to have straightened out the issues regarding running hot and stalling. I'm not concerned with the EGR. Man was I glad to have her back to normal...

  13. #13
    Member Since
    Mar 2011
    Location
    2000 Black
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    Additional information - My scantool doesnt seem to be pull all the information available according to the service manual. Specifically, I am not getting fuel pressure, barometric pressure, air fuel comanded elquivalance which are needed to pull air/fuel ratio. I am using ScanXL Pro and those charts are flat lined.

  14. #14
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
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    2000, Kaiser, #0016
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    All OBDII solutions are not created equal. I use a cheap reader that interfaces with my Android Phone via bluetooth using an app called Torque. The Torque app has a ton of standard readings, but some OBDII data cannot be read since they are vehicle specific. Generic OBDII readers have the PIDS of the data locations in thier firmware (ie. not easily updated unless you can flash the firmware of the reader with updated firmware that contains the PIDS for your vehicle).

    One upside of using an app such as Torque is that you can update the PIDS manually to grab the more esoteric data from the ECU depending on the vehicle. Unfortunately for me, I have searched and searched for the PIDS for Isuzu, and cannot find any I can add, but I know they are out there, somewhere.

    In summary, the typical Autozone code scanner prolly will not pull all possible info, (unless its upgradeable, which it prolly is not). It will suffice to pull ECU error codes tho. Software apps such as Torque will allow you to glean more info, in real-time even, but if you can tell the app what memory locations (PIDS) the interface should read from, its becomes an even more flexible tool. Its just a more flexible method provided you can find the PIDS. If you want to just pull error codes, any hardware based reader will work. If you want to gather more detailed real-time data such as manifold pressure, the software method is more adaptable.

    I've never used a ScanXL Pro, so I don't know what its capabilities are.

    I know that still sounds confusing, but I tried.


    Edit: Oh and shinkson the resolution of my idle problem did not end in this thread. It ended in http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...t=18045&page=2 that thread. And to this day, no idle probs whatsoever.



    Quote Originally Posted by shinkson View Post
    Additional information - My scantool doesnt seem to be pull all the information available according to the service manual. Specifically, I am not getting fuel pressure, barometric pressure, air fuel comanded elquivalance which are needed to pull air/fuel ratio. I am using ScanXL Pro and those charts are flat lined.
    Last edited by Grif : 11/16/2011 at 10:17 PM Reason: resolution

  15. #15
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    Yeah I went thru all this.... no success! Spares are horrible prices here!The tps and the iac cost about $200! Turned out to be those stupid intake manifold gaskets! Wish I'd known the trick of spraying "engine start" around the intake manifold before I started replacing stuff that wasn't necessary! Dohhhhhh! ):

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