CV joint replacement

[Marlin]

I know there are other how-tos for this, but they did not help me. Here is one with some pics and step by step instructions I hope will help others.
Tools you will need:
8mm Allen wrench
3lb sledge
lug wrench
breaker bar
2 jacks and/or stands
pick
snap ring pliers
14,17mm(deepwell and regular), 22 mm sockets and appropriate ratchet. i recommend 1/2" drive.
14,17,22mm wrenches
boot band tool
hand swag(for cutting boot band) A good pair of dikes would work as well.
rags

[Marlin]

Remove wheel. Then remove the hub cover with the 8mm wrench.

[Marlin]

Once you get the hub cover off, remove the snapring with the snapring pliers. This will release the CV joint for later.

Next you need to take the calipers off.

[Marlin]

After this is done, you need to put the jack under the A-arm. Then go ahead and remove the bolts for the lower ball joint and break the tie rod end free.

[Marlin]

Now you can pull the CV out once you have removed the retaining ring inside the green cup. At this point, you need to remove the boot, you are going to get dirty, just accept it and dig in

[Marlin]

To put the new CV in, put the splines into the hub first, and then you can swing the other end into the cup past where the front bump stop was.
Put the snapring back into the cup, put the boot on. Then you just work backwards from there. Voila, drink some beer and celebrate a job well done.

[crotchrocket]

This is awesome, thanks Marlin!!!

[killinformula]

Just wanted to add another bit of information... I followed this write up and it went amazing using the EMPI CV, so thank you Merlin! There are two things i would add:
1) if the tie rod gives you trouble, use a pit-man arm remover (can be rented and then returned from auto parts store) -- it took 10 seconds to get the rod out
2) To just clarify on the re-install...turn the rotors toward the front of the car and by removing the second bolt from the bump stop makes it even easier to first slide the CV into the bearings of the rotor area then slide the other end into the green cup

Now for the band that came with the EMPI CV:
The band is fairly easy to install but you will need a CV band tool (could only buy and then return from an auto parts store, could find anywhere to rent) as stated by Merlin. Just face the part of the band that will be crimped toward the front of the car, and then get under the car to see better and use the tool in the hole between the A-arm and the rotor, it gives the best angle for crimping.

Once again thanks for the write up, it was very clear! I was going to take pics of my job but you covered it very well.

[Triathlete]

To replace the CV you don't need to remove the tie rod!
I bought a band tool for about $10 and it worked great...kept it for future use since it was cheap.

[Marlin]

Just wanted to add another bit of information... I followed this write up and it went amazing using the EMPI CV, so thank you Merlin! There are two things i would add:
1) if the tie rod gives you trouble, use a pit-man arm remover (can be rented and then returned from auto parts store) -- it took 10 seconds to get the rod out
2) To just clarify on the re-install...turn the rotors toward the front of the car and by removing the second bolt from the bump stop makes it even easier to first slide the CV into the bearings of the rotor area then slide the other end into the green cup

Now for the band that came with the EMPI CV:
The band is fairly easy to install but you will need a CV band tool (could only buy and then return from an auto parts store, could find anywhere to rent) as stated by Merlin. Just face the part of the band that will be crimped toward the front of the car, and then get under the car to see better and use the tool in the hole between the A-arm and the rotor, it gives the best angle for crimping.

Once again thanks for the write up, it was very clear! I was going to take pics of my job but you covered it very well.

Glad it was helpful, but dude, its marlin, not Merlin, merlin is one of our Zu contacts out of St Charles, MO.

[Triathlete]

Glad it was helpful, but dude, its Charlie Tuna, not Merlin, merlin is one of our Zu contacts out of St Charles, MO.

Fixed it!

[killinformula]

haha sorry Marlin, i posted on my ipod touch and it was to much of a pain to go back and check.. i knew i was taking a stab at it. Thanks for being a good sport, and i will remember it from now on

[sindarin]

4 years later. I have the engine out, and I figure "Hey, let's go through the entire undercarriage and lift, etc while the car is 'in lighter fashion'!" (Silly NY'er... 4x4's are for west folk...)

Passenger side Lower ball joint bolt head (outer rear bolt) is spinning in the "carriaged A-arm socket" and I finally got purchase on it... Outer psgr CV boot tears.... (wa-wa-waaaaaaa! *game show fail tune, followed with manly sigh!*)

Inner CV Boots are "rubber crackingly dry" upon inspection, and the axles are only like $60 ea at O'Reilly's... Ahh what the hell, I'm already in here so in for a penny, in for a pound...

And then I meet Lucifer himself.... the Snap ring that holds these bastards in. 100 degree weather.. beer is running low... WTF is holding these sumbitches in like Alcatraz prisoners!?!?! C-Ring(s)...

After this I need to find a wiring harness that goes to psgr side O2 Sensor(s) which were melted by 'conveniently resting atop the exhaust' whilst wrapped around the driveshaft to the rear pumpkin, and I am desperately seeking a new heater core (in for a pound, now in for a ton)

Contacted RD for the radiator, waiting for the 3" lift with 919's, looking for steel brake lines and will need tires. Not an easy fixer-upper, but I ate a lot of rice with a lil soy, switched to sake and put on the Vapors in order to "think a lil more land o' the Rising Sun"

EXCELLENT Photos/walk-thru FOUR YRZ LATER!!

[Marlin]

That ring is a PITA, you have to start clearing grease until you see the open end. I use a pick and sometimes a flat head and seems to work. Since I have learned how to drive over the last 4 yrs, I haven't had any problems with CV joints. As for torn boots, the RS has had a torn boot for years, I just fill it with grease every once in a while and let it ride. Going on 5 yrs, no problems. Same with the prop shaft boots, although it is starting to make noise

[eternal21]

And then I meet Lucifer himself.... the Snap ring that holds these bastards in. 100 degree weather.. beer is running low... WTF is holding these sumbitches in like Alcatraz prisoners!?!?! C-Ring(s)...

I just got finished changing upper and lower ball joints on both side, as well as doing the inner and outer cv boots (both sides)....first time for doing any of it on the VX. Easiest way I found to get them off: the cup has 6 indentions in it for each of the 6 ball bearings that need to fit in there. Get a flat head and slide along one of the indentions until you find the ring. Wriggle your screwdriver under it, pull it up, and keep on sliding it around until you come to the end of it. Use a pair if needle nose to hold that end and circle back round w/the flat head until you come to the other end and pull it out.