What a greasy job that was. I was able to get everything back together. The bearings really didn't need repacking after all but I was changing the rotors and figured while it was apart I might as well do it. But the original grease was still a nice blue color so I guess they were in good shape.
The hub nut tool worked out ok for me, I trimmed the prongs and it was a good fit.
I have not driven on it yet because Advance Auto parts gave me the wrong brake line coupler but I will be this after noon. I was replacing all the front brakes including the metal line that goes from the drivers side around the engine to the ABS.
One thing that struck me odd is in someone's write up it mentions using a fish scale for the proper pre-load. I went to Walmart and even bought the scale but then after I realized the fish scale method might give me too little or too much torque depending on the length of the wrench. I had a torque bar but that seems to have gone missing so I just guessed it. I will let you know when the wheels fall off.
You hook the fish scale to the stud, to measure the amount of resistance that tightening the hub nut is creating.
I believe it was in Mr. Changs write up where it was described in great detail.
And don't miss the part about tightening & loosening the hub nut, & rotating the hub, to get the bearings & races seated properly.
Guessing isn't good enough on this...
I got the correct hub nut tool on eBay for $20.
Bart
ok. maybe i should have actually read it instead of just reading the parts list. I torqued the lock nut down then loosened then lightly tightened it again. There is some rubbing noise coming from the front right which is the one i think i left looser then the driver's side. So I guess I have to take it all apart again and do it right this time.
...
After tightening the hub nut using the hub nut tool, rotate the hub assembly several times, forward and back. You will then need to loosen the hub nut and
rotate the hub assembly forward and reverse several times. Repeat the tightening, rotating, loosening, and rotating sequence several more times. This action
distributes the grease and seats the bearings. Tighten the hub nut one more time. Attach a spring scale to one of the wheel studs and pull. I started them at 3
o'clock (forward preload) and at 9 o'clock (reverse preload) and pulled straight down to measure pre-load. The Isuzu shop manual shows the mechanic pulling
from the 12 o'clock position. Adjust the tightness of the hub nut until your preload reads between 2.6lbs-4.0lbs for old bearings and a new seal or 4.4lbs-5.5lbs
for a new seal and new bearings. I tried to obtain these readings in both forward and reverse motion. Be sure to do this without the brake caliper installed.
He splains it much better than I do..................