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Thread: SUPER FLEXY IFS ????? who wants it?

  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    NOT IN THE FOR SALE SECTION!!!!!!

    On a side note, you have to remove torsion bars to feed them through the holes, will those holes fit the HD torsion bars? Do you have to disconnect the drive shaft to fit it in there, where does the top plate mount? I need more info!!!!! You're killin me smalls.

    Link to KIT

    http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...958#post205958

    No, you don't have to completely remove the torsion bars, (but it does make it easier) they just need to be loosened up...

    Unless your "Adjustment Keys" are different than the OEM (torsion bar spline count/size), they should work fine with HD bars...

    No, you DO NOT have to remove or disconnect the driveshaft to install.

    In the pics, the green parts are the parts in the Kit...it is mounted on a crossmember in some of the pics to show how it is positioned in the vehical.

    Install takes between 1-3 hrs depending on your abilities, tools, and how dirty/rusty your VX underside is....

    Last edited by BigMeatVX : 09/24/2010 at 10:58 AM

  2. #92
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    I didn't want to add to the sell thread, do you have install instructions. I was looking at the parts, and thought that the torsion bars had to sleeve through the big holes.
    Do you have to drill any holes? (I don't mind, but that is a big deal for some folks)
    Does this affect ground clearance?
    That contraption looks pretty heavy duty, sweet! Look for my order on the 1st, still moping from spending 2K on the F250 rear end rebuild, but this kit goes higher up on the list of wants...even higher than my gooseneck trailer Good job man!!

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    I didn't want to add to the sell thread, do you have install instructions. I was looking at the parts, and thought that the torsion bars had to sleeve through the big holes.
    Do you have to drill any holes? (I don't mind, but that is a big deal for some folks)
    Does this affect ground clearance?
    That contraption looks pretty heavy duty, sweet! Look for my order on the 1st, still moping from spending 2K on the F250 rear end rebuild, but this kit goes higher up on the list of wants...even higher than my gooseneck trailer Good job man!!
    I am working on making up some instructions with detailed pics...should be availble in a few days.

    The torsion bars are splined on the ends, so yes they do slide into the big holes, unless someone has changed the keys to non-OEM size, the kit will fit.

    NO DRILLING REQUIRED!!!!

    Does not affect ground clearance, as all the parts in the kit are positioned ABOVE the crossmember.

    Thanks for being patient, this has been quite a project!

  4. #94
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    Think there will be any rub/clearance issues with Kilby skid plates?

  5. #95
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    Looks good! My questions:

    1) What is the total weight of the parts?
    2) What type of metal are these made from?
    3) What type of finish? (painted or powdercoated)
    4) Can you buy extra keys in the event of misplacement?

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by eternal21 View Post
    Looks good! My questions:

    1) What is the total weight of the parts?
    2) What type of metal are these made from?
    3) What type of finish? (painted or powdercoated)
    4) Can you buy extra keys in the event of misplacement?
    Not steal his thunder, but the key looks to be a hitch pin style key. Probably can be had at any RV store or pending the diameter, even a regular old auto parts store.

    Paint is a good question, although I kind of like the green

  7. #97
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    Another question, in light of the brake line thread I just started, are the factory brake lines long enough to support the extra flex on the front end? I ordered my lines +2" just in case. I know on my Expedition I did a 2 " lift, and I was pushing it with the brake lines. I would equate the allowing of the front to drop out to be the same as a lift.

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by eternal21 View Post
    Looks good! My questions:

    1) What is the total weight of the parts?
    2) What type of metal are these made from?
    3) What type of finish? (painted or powdercoated)
    4) Can you buy extra keys in the event of misplacement?
    1 35 Lbs...
    2 3/4" thick mild steel, grade 8 bolts ,nuts and threads...lightweight Titaininum is avail. for extra $$$$
    3 enamel finish...powdercoating is availble for extra $$
    4 The "SECURMENT PIN" is a common part (1/2" hitch pin) and is readily avail. locally...(The "KEY" is a splined part, that the Torsion bar slides into and is used for ride height adjustment...)

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marlin View Post
    Another question, in light of the brake line thread I just started, are the factory brake lines long enough to support the extra flex on the front end? I ordered my lines +2" just in case. I know on my Expedition I did a 2 " lift, and I was pushing it with the brake lines. I would equate the allowing of the front to drop out to be the same as a lift.
    While not required, longer brake lines sound like a great idea...

    The SUPER FLEXY IFS KIT does not necessarliy put more strain on the brake lines, as your overall drop travel will not change. (both front tires at full droop) HOWEVER, it does allow one tire to be at FULL COMPRESSION while the other tire is at FULL DROOP, AND more importantly while the tires are in these extreem positions, the weight is ballanced between the two tires MUCH MORE evenly, and the vehical remains much more level, while increasing traction....Typical OEM syle IFS does not allow this as much.

    Also, as one front tire climes an obstical and compresses that side of the suspension, the KIT transfers force to the other front tire, pushing it downward...
    This does a few things...First, the tire climing the obstical has its spring rate decreased, allowing it to stuff farther and easier and sooner up into the wheelweell untill it reaches maximum compression (bump stop)... at the same time, the tire on the opposite side has its spring rate increased, pushing it down into the terrain...

    For example, With this Kit, You can drop one front tire into a 4" deep rut while the other front tire is sitting on a 4" tall rock, and maintain EQUAL tire preasure on both fronts, and maintain a more level vehical as well.
    Last edited by BigMeatVX : 09/24/2010 at 02:37 PM

  10. #100
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    Makes sense...it doesn't increase suspension travel, but does allow the available travel to be fully utilized, without fighting against the torsion bars.

    I still don't see how the sway bar is taken out of the equation though, seems to me it will still be fighting against L/R differential suspension movement.
    95 Trooper with a buncha stuff nobody here cares about...

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by vt_maverick View Post
    Think there will be any rub/clearance issues with Kilby skid plates?
    The Kit should fit finr with the Kilby skid plate...All the parts are positioned ABOVE the crossmember.

  12. #102
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    I'm all in for more articulation but I don't think it would be wise with my offset. Think I'd better pass on this one.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  13. #103
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    Hope Santa is nice this year!
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  14. #104
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  15. #105
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