SUPER FLEXY IFS ????? who wants it?

[Ascinder]

I can see where you guys are coming from with the skidplates, but I just really have a hard time believing that you're going to be able to get this system to align itself perfectly each time and get the pin to engage and disengage without it hanging up. If the hole the pin goes into has slop in it so it engages easier, then conversely it wouldn't be that tight when engaged and you'd probably have it rattling and banging all the time. On the other hand if it is a precision fit, them it's harder to line up each time. Solenoids aren't that powerful, and if you step up to hydraulics you may damage something by forcing the pin when it is out of alignment. That's kind of what I was meaning about being more troublesome that just going the manual route. Not saying it can't be done. Just may be pretty diffict to get right.

[rowhard]

First off, well done, those are excellent demo vid's and it show's how well your Super Flexy IFS works.

I'm sure if he can design this, skid plate/pin interference would be a very minor bump in the road.

[ZEUS]

I was referring to a dash-mounted super flexy IFS controller for the VX, not looking to buy a 2014 Jeep. I've got to think something could be substituted for the removable pin?

Dude, I think Alan was telling you, "Sure, you could fab up your own dash activated setup." The reference he used implies... "The parts are out there. Get on it!" not "Go buy a Jeep." Let us know what you come up with...

[Marlin]

Good idea, but might have clearance issues.

No, they don't need clearance to get in the country anymore apparently.

[BigMeatVX]

I think the thing you're looking for in that case is a solenoid. You could also use a cable or push rod to make it lever actuated. An air or hydraulic cylinder would also work but require a little more work. I'd stick with the solenoid. You would probably have to taper the pin too so it would engage smoothly. How hard is it to get out and pull a pin though? Seems like for as much as you'd use this, you could pull a pin out 50 times and it would take just as long as installing a system like that once, not to mention cost, complexity, and reliability.

Yes the PIN already has a taper on the end of it that helps with allignment.

Most electric solinoids are not powerfull enough to pull this pin, however...Air or hydraulic?????? way to much work and too complicated...IMHO

Here is what WILL work.

Imagine a HD long Valve-spring that holds the PIN in the hole....Now imagine a OEM style e-brake handle (which has compound leverage on a cable) attached to a HD cable....which is attached to the PIN.....
You pull the handle up untill it locks,,,the coil spring force (and friction) is overcome and the PIN slides back releasing the Cross-bar for SUPER-FLEXY use.

Then, when you hit the pavement again, then release the handle...The coil spring then pulls the handle down and pushes the pin back in place...(Of course you may have to rock the rig back and forth just a bit, but this could be done while in motion with just a flick of the steering wheel.)

This is something I will make availble later, however it will be $$$...

There are other ways to do this , also.... Just a big lever with simple linkage would work, too.

[BigMeatVX]

No, they don't need clearance to get in the country anymore apparently.

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[Triathlete]

For those with skid plates...thats nothing a hole drill won't cure! One stategicly placed hole that your hand will fit through and your good to go.

[RallyDude]

I would think with some of the full skids that I have seen, drilling some holes for access, and cooling is your best bet anyway. You reduce some weight as a bonus, while still retaining most of the structural integrity. A blown tranny due to heat buildup costs just as much as a tranny crushed by a rock. Most of my experience with driving is mountain driving a stick. But I do know cooling that AT is critical especially under load. I regularly would climb 7500 feet at high speeds on interstate and highway just to get to work. If I had ay a skid, which I am somewhat looking for now (I plan on buying one in spring). I'd definitely drill some strategically placed holes. What good are overheated components caused by a skid that was there to protect it?

I think the super flexy IFS will prove to be a valuable off-road tool at a bargain price. Even bargain pricing until sometime in May (hopefully) for me is beyond my budget. I'll have to pay a bit more, but I'll see what everyone thinks as it seems like a lot of members are wisely going for this mod. For what I wheel, the balanced aggressive stance with better grip, will be much more stable and much less tippy when the going gets tough. On fast sections that have just mild obstacles, the truck should be able to suck up some obstacles while maintaining direction. Often I cross in and out of on- and off-road terrain. It would be nice to not have to crawl under the truck whenever the terrain changes. I like the e-brake type idea you came up with as well. I'm guessing you'll be busy creating all the standard kits before you decide to offer a cabin-operated version, or that part might just be DIY?

I've got to say, this is a really exciting mod. When I come back from Moab, I just usually mellow out and listen to the stereo after a week of playing. And instead you design an incredible bargain suspension component. I'm really impressed.

[Marlin]

My only concern for others, not so much me, is to get the kind of flex he has in the videos, you gotta tear all that plastic BS out of the wheel wells. There is not a whole lot room in there for tuckin a 32 or 33" tire. Think about what angle your CV is gonna be at, a diff drop will help, its why I am doing mine. Don't get me wrong, I ordered my kit last week, and will thoroughly test it out, but I don't think its some magic simple toy to make your VX a SAS. Its gonna take some work to keep from tearing it up...enter EMPI CVs
Sorry to possibly turn away customers Bigmeat, but they need to know, I don't think this kit is for the once a year Moabber. Not that there is anything wrong with that either Just sayin............

[Marlin]

PS, Bigmeat-can't wait to go wheelin with you when I get to Washington. Time to break some stuff
What all have you done to the front end for the performance you have in the video.

[phines]

This mod is very cool indeed. I really enjoyed for the 22.3 minutes I had it installed prior to the engine death.

Joking aside, I did test it out on a few ditches and curbs and notices a huge difference.

[Triathlete]

Marlin...I already have empi cv's...I think you are getting your cv's mixed up

[Marlin]

Marlin...I already have empi cv's...I think you are getting your cv's mixed up

Ooops, substitute RCV everywhere you see EMPI.

[vt_maverick]

I can see where you guys are coming from with the skidplates, but I just really have a hard time believing that you're going to be able to get this system to align itself perfectly each time and get the pin to engage and disengage without it hanging up. If the hole the pin goes into has slop in it so it engages easier, then conversely it wouldn't be that tight when engaged and you'd probably have it rattling and banging all the time. On the other hand if it is a precision fit, them it's harder to line up each time. Solenoids aren't that powerful, and if you step up to hydraulics you may damage something by forcing the pin when it is out of alignment. That's kind of what I was meaning about being more troublesome that just going the manual route. Not saying it can't be done. Just may be pretty diffict to get right.

Agreed, but how else can you encourage innovation without challenging smart people to go even farther?

For those with skid plates...thats nothing a hole drill won't cure! One stategicly placed hole that your hand will fit through and your good to go.

I would think with some of the full skids that I have seen, drilling some holes for access, and cooling is your best bet anyway.

Sounds like a good idea to me, just got those metal drilling bits a few weeks ago for the roof rack, sounds like a good use (for cooling for me, as Marlin says SFIFS for your weekend beach runner is probably not so smart). Now I have to go buy a plug-in drill, the cordless Dewalt I have is just not up to the task, got to replace the damn battery every 10 minutes when drilling metal.

[RallyDude]

If you have huge tires, removing most of the plastic in the wheel wells is going to be mandatory. I see this mod being beneficial however, even for stock or modestly altered vehicles. While the mod is capable of doing more, I think it could be fun even without a lift, etc., etc....