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Thread: Engine question

  1. #1
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    Engine question

    Well I've spent the morning tearing into my engine to see if I can see what is going on with it. I did a compression test and here is what I found:

    90 100

    120 100

    110 100

    front

    I took the timing cover off the passenger side and everything seemed ok. I took the valve cover off and still everything looked good. Had the wife crank it while the cover was off too see if I gould see anything going on. Got a good oil bath but other than that nothing out of the ordinary. The sound seems like it is coming from under the cylinder head now. Just not sure what my next move should be. What should the compression be on the cylinders?
    I am perplexed because the tapping will stop sometimes and then go back to tapping.

    Any suggestions???

  2. #2
    Member Since
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    Here are the inital results from another member that had a bad valve. He's in the UK so not sure if the measurements are comparable, but it's the only one I remember seeing recently.

    1 = 190
    2 = 170
    3 = 180
    4 = 0
    5 = 170
    6 = 165


    Guess which cylinder had the bad valve...

    The workshop manual list the desired compression at 14.0 Kg/cm2. So to convert that to psi you simply multiply by 14.223 and get 199 psi.

    Looks like you may have a gauge issue, or you're gonna need some rings.

    Hope this helps...
    Last edited by Mile High VX : 06/12/2010 at 10:33 AM
    Live, Love, Forgive and Never Give Up

  3. #3
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    I did the compression test on a cold engine and the manual says to have the engine at normal operating temps before testing. I guess I need to warm up the engine and try it again. I just can't figure out the knock.

  4. #4
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    Exclamation Check this before you go any further! :)

    SilverBullet75
    Formerly: '01 Ebony VXSTLTH
    Now: '08 Saab 9-7x Aero 6.0L

  5. #5
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    I may go ahead and do that, heck I am into it this far. I did download the manual and follow the compression testing procedure. The numbers came back much better:
    205 210

    200 200

    195 205
    front

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buffy View Post
    I may go ahead and do that, heck I am into it this far. I did download the manual and follow the compression testing procedure. The numbers came back much better:
    205 210

    200 200

    195 205
    front
    That's what I'm talkin' 'bout!


  7. #7
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    The wife made and interesting observation. While we were doing the compression that the engine didn't knock when we were turning it over. I'll keep digging into it tomorrow and see if I can make some more progress.

  8. #8
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    One thing I didn't mention from uuesterday was when I first took the timing cover off and checked the timing belt, it had a lot of play in it but after turning the motor over a few times the belt is now tight. Now I have all the covers off and here are where my timing marks are:

    Left Bank (drivers side)



    Right Bank (passenger side)



    Crank Pulley



    The belt has some play in it now. I believe I have my marks in place to start removing the timing belt. Would like to hear from someone before I take the next step.

    Thanks!

  9. #9
    Member Since
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by Buffy View Post
    Would like to hear from someone before I take the next step.

    Thanks!
    Hello...
































    I think I'm soooooo funny...

    This is about the best help anyone can give you...

    http://www.vehicross.info/misc/pdf_f...eplacement.pdf

    This is also handy...

    http://www.vehicross.info/misc/vx_manuals/IV00_01.pdf

  10. #10
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by Buffy View Post
    One thing I didn't mention from uuesterday was when I first took the timing cover off and checked the timing belt, it had a lot of play in it but after turning the motor over a few times the belt is now tight. Now I have all the covers off and here are where my timing marks are
    The marks look like they all line up properly.

    If the belt was loose before, & then somehow got tighter...

    In my mind that would indicate a problem with the tensioner.

    But I haven't done mine yet, so whaddoIknow...

  11. #11
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    What Dub said....

    I used Bart's (nfpgasmask) timing belt how-to to replace my timing belt about a month ago and the instructions are spot on. Bart doesn't miss a step and the instructions are well written (the pictures help out a lot too).

    Looks like your timing marks are all in the right place, but I'm curious as to why the belt would get tighter too.

    Good luck.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  12. #12
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    I've been following Barts writeup as well and it has helped a lot. Thus far all the parts that I've removed all look in decent shape. Based on the wear on the belt I'm thinking this is the original belt. I will replace everything and hope it stops the knock.

  13. #13
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    Wrench (I vote for tensioner failure)

    You are giving me deja vu with the symptoms, etc...
    I'm gonna give it a 95%-sure rating...

    Of course, you'll have to make sure the marks are correct, etc, but...
    Just my opinion...

  14. #14
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    If the belt is loose the tensioner is bad. it is really hard to push the tensioner in ,you need a vice to do it. Replace the tensioner. shawn
    1COOLVX

  15. #15
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    My plan is to order the same parts Bart did in his writeup. While waiting on parts I will be soing some serious cleaning in the engine bay and rust removal. I noticed the beginnings of rust under where the radiator sits. That should keep me busy for a week or so!

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