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Thread: cladding cleaner / restorer - anyone tried it?

  1. #1
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    cladding cleaner / restorer - anyone tried it?

    Just wondering if anyone has tried this stuff?
    It's called Stoner Trim Shine and It's for sale at Canadian Tire.
    The website is pretty informative... just thought I'd ask first before trying it.
    Company claims that it has UV protectant in it.
    I'm looking to get rid of the chalky, drip marks and water stains that are left over after I wash the vx, and want something that doesn't need to be re-app'ed every week.



    Thanks all...
    1993 Trooper (gone but not forgotten - sniff), 1999 Vx, 2003 Yukon Denali - luv em' all.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben-man View Post
    Just wondering if anyone has tried this stuff?
    It's called Stoner Trim Shine and It's for sale at Canadian Tire.
    The website is pretty informative... just thought I'd ask first before trying it.
    Company claims that it has UV protectant in it.
    I'm looking to get rid of the chalky, drip marks and water stains that are left over after I wash the vx, and want something that doesn't need to be re-app'ed every week.



    Thanks all...
    I know nfpgasmask (Bart) uses it and swears by it. I tried it, looked great, but dust sticks to it so that ruled it out for me. Can get it at regular auto stores here in the U.S.
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  3. #3
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    I like Mequires Natural Shine. Nice natural look...not shiney, does not attract dust/dirt and last fairly long.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  4. #4
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    I hate when my cladding gets dusty. You lean against your car in a nice white shirt and khakis and BAM! your filthy. I find this unacceptable so I went in search of a solution that would last longer and not dust up.

    The previous owner of my black VX tried some kind of cladding cleaner and it also dusted up and even left white streaking stains from the rain.

    Something I found that worked was rubbing alcohol and armor all detailer.

    Cleaning it with the alcohol, then go over it again with this stuff gave my cladding a like new look without the thin film that attracts and holds dust.

  5. #5
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    Here's some more info. There's many threads addressing this common topic.
    Many of us have tried a product called "Restore/Refinisher". it's not a treatment but a permanent coating, almost like a coat of clear nail polish.

    Here's the thread talking in detail about it, and my post #33 explaining exactly how I applied it. And my post #51 provides some updated info since I applied a 2nd coat this year. I did discover a down side, that is, it chips off when abraded, like from a bush or tree branch.
    http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...inish+restorer

  6. #6
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    restorer

    Definately worth the effort and money to use the restorer. Stuff is amazing. Brings back color and stays for a long time. Not a dust magnet like armorall or the other stuff.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Daly View Post
    Not a dust magnet like armorall or the other stuff.
    I agree regular armor all is not the way to go. But the stuff I was referring to is called Detailer, and has a "Natural Finish". It wipes off clean. I don't like the glossy look on the cladding.

  8. #8
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    try armor-dillo. its like a green baby wipe. realy easy to aply. last for about 2-3 months. with ZERO dust colection and looks like it just came off the show room floor. the only place ive seen it is at a chevy dealership. (its what they now recomend for the clading on Avalanches)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingV77 View Post
    try armor-dillo. its like a green baby wipe. realy easy to aply. last for about 2-3 months. with ZERO dust colection and looks like it just came off the show room floor. the only place ive seen it is at a chevy dealership. (its what they now recomend for the clading on Avalanches)
    You can also order it online, pretty sure somebody mentioned this in one of the other cladding treatment threads. Just search Google for "armor-dillo ts1" and you'll get hits for places to buy online. The first one in the list is this:

    http://www.autocosmeticproducts.com/Armordillots1.htm

    You'll notice it's SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than the other products mentioned in this thread.

  10. #10
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    i havr no idea how much it costs. the parts mgr is a close friend of my brother. he gave it to me for free to test it for him. as the dealer just got there first shipment the day before. it does work great. everything you want with none of what you dont.

  11. #11
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    When I did my refinish restorer it took me about 2.5-3 hours. '

    Here's why:

    When you put it on the first time if you use a lint free rag or sponge/chamois, run it around a bit to really get it soaked in the plastic (make SURE you are doing this in shade/cooler weather.

    Once you see it darkening to a decent amount THEN run it in even strokes to smooth it out and get it texture free. Once that coat dries you can repeat until satisfied with coverage and sheen.

    Unlike Kat the refinish restorer did darken my cladding significantly, nearly as much as my MANY Back to Black applications and even took away my gas stain and a few marred areas. I did wash those areas and the fender edges and such with windex first to get all the grease and oil off.

    That was about 4 months ago. I would have either done 3 Back to Backs by now or be driving with some extremely faded cladding.

    Point being, I've tried nearly every product on the cladding that we have been through on the boards. I settled on Back to Black for over two years (intermittently trying other product that came out) and I can tell you now if you are using anything else other than refinish restorer or something that achieves the exact same effect through a similar process you are honestly wasting a lot of time, elbow grease, and good looking days for the VX.

    It's permanent for the most part. You can touch it up from time to time if you get a scuff or a little rough area and there are like 20 applications in the can. It doesn't accumulate dust repels water effectively and is easy to wash with mild soap and water when doing the rest of the car. I LOVE having my car wash be an hour long instead of 2 because I'm recoating everything with Mother's.

    I really don't even know why we still have "OH noooesss! my cladding is fading what do i do!" threads anymore. The solution is 45 bucks, comes from germany and is in a red metal can.

    Get it and be done with the weakest link to your VX care regime. Period.


    *Full Disclosure* I HAVE heard that Armordillo wipes have been effective for those that are nervous about the permanence of RR. I, however, only found info about Armordillo once I had completed my RR treatments. I am pretty certain though that's its not nearly as permanent. I think that Chopper has been running it on his for over a year now with no fading.
    macintosh man

  12. #12
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    one more thing. you only need one pad to do the entire vx

  13. #13
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    @ FlyingV77 - I'm glad you mentioned washing with a "mild soap and water."

    I'm sure everyone here already knows this, but just in case... only wash using a soap that is meant for vehicles. Every once in a while I still find family, friends, neighbors or coworkers who are using dish soap to wash their cars (like we were taught "way back when.") It will immediately remove your wax. Ditto for commercial car washes.

    Speaking of wax, cladding and helpful hints - got dried wax streaks or stains in your cladding or other textured plastic? A few applications of smooth peanut butter will remove it. First time I heard about that I was sure some joker was trying to see how many suckers he could get to fall for his prank. Nope, it works. Use your fingertip to apply it like it's a polish and then wipe it off. It instantly looks better and the plastic is darker because part of the wax has been removed and the peanut butter is oily. That "Armour-All" effect doesn't last and any remaining dried wax will reappear after a few hot summer days. Just keep re-appling until it's all actually removed. At worst, I had to do this 4 times.

    Hard water spots? 50-50 mix of white vinegar & distilled water. If it's really bad, let it set for 4 or 5 minutes before you wipe it off. Then re-apply wax.

    Bugs on the bumper? Soak a towel in hot water and let it rest on the bumper for a little while to soften them up, then wipe 'em off.

    Sorry... I ramble.

    -- Rick the detailing freak

  14. #14
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    If your cladding has NOT suffered from UV damage/color change etc., I recommend "303 Aerospace Protectant" by 3M. You can find it at some auto parts stores, and at most marine supply stores. I got turned on to this when I bought my Calfee Carbon Fiber bicycle frame - the owner/builder, Craig Calfee, recommends it to protect the frames he builds. (Sidebar - this is where ALL carbon fiber bicycle frames in North America are sent for repairs, regardless of who originally built them!). I'm lucky enough that my VX has been garage kept since new, so my cladding is in VG condition. I tried it a few weeks ago, and was flat out AMAZED at how easy it is to apply, how GREAT it makes the cladding look, and how long it lasts (so far)! Furthermore, it will protect your cladding from UV damage - that is this product's "claim to fame". I've found that you pretty much can't lose on ANY product with the 3M name...

  15. #15
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    Hey techno...wanna trade cladding?? I'm pretty sure my cladding is possessed!

    I'll 2nd the recommendation on the "303"..it's just flat out amazing!
    Been using it on all the roof racks I've procured, nothing short of amazing, turns the black aluminum bars a nice silky black, & rubber and plastic are like new. Spray it on & let it soak on the plastic for several hours, have found it's even more spectacular that way. Lasts a long time, but bottle says reapply every 6 weeks or so for max UV (SPF40) protection. Got mine on Amazon with free shipping, also avail on ebay.

    Wish I coulda tried it on my cladding before R/R...get it all nice and dark, then apply the R/R to seal it all in that way! (I know that's not how the surface is to be prepped though)

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