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Last edited by deermagnet : 02/06/2013 at 03:54 PM
Wow, pretty crazy that this stuff broke. The PCV grommet isn't that surprising, because of the heat and stuff, but the dipstick? I would never think that would snap. And the intake tube? Wow. Must all be heat related. Is you VX garage kept? Just curious.
Bart
Excellent thread idea Mark!!!
My 4 month old Purolator PCV valve broke into two pieces just this week when I was changing it ....luckily my grommet stayed in place...the Kilbys caught the lower half of the PCV valve once we finally wrangled it out....but you have to be disjointed to reach anything there. Dave used our grabbers to scrape around and knock it out.
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
dipsticks actually break fairly often. id say i see 4-5 a month that are broken in our shop..
my strange ones are..
headlights on warning chime (130 from merlin)
antenna base
drivers side door lock actuator
Edit:
forgot! the grommet for the IAT sensor in my intake tube tore in half.. that ones kind of annoying, ive been looking for a good replacement, so far no luck, so i think what i am going to do is move the sensor closer to the filter anyway and get a grommet that fits well then drill a new hole for the grommet
Yeah I dropped my oil cap down there a few weeks ago. I tried everything I could think of, from adjustable wrenches to magnetic pick-ups (not so helpful on a plastic cap, duh) to filter wrenches without result. After probably 45 minutes or so I finally just jammed my hand between the bottom of the engine and the skid plate and felt around for it until I was almost up to my shoulder. Good thing I'm not the bodybuilding type.
Mark,
The air intake tube on the TLC split a few years back. It ran terrible that way but it was ONLY $107 to replace.
Ash,
Your story reminded me how I was having a hard time positioning the water pump on the Eclipse to line up the bolt holes. I really had to snake my arm into an awkward position. I realized that my hand was stuck just as my wife was pulling out of the driveway. Luckly she happened to notice the look of panic on my face and came back. All it took was to jack the engine up about an inch & my hand came free. Shade tree mechanics can be SOOOO much fun.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
Well my other thought was to blast up the hill as fast as I could, try to get it to bounce around and fly out the back...or may be better to blast down it and slam on the brakes.... (OK, OK, I'm done muckin' up this thread)
hill in background, second pic is going down it.
How about the front drivers door thingy that holds it open and the same on the rear hatch. Also, the exhaust manifold downpipe.
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.
I was amazed the inner door handle cracked where the seam was. I also remember thinking I can't believe the ABS speed sensor pigtail pulled out long ago!
Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"
Here is a nice one...
I took my niece to an aquarium today while on vacation and the exterior door handle pulled up but no action inside the door to open it. She had to crawl across and open it from the inside. I don't even have any tools here with me to try to take the door cover off and look to see what might have come loose or broken or fallen off or whatever... The interior door handle still operates normally and the locks work fine. It's odd.
I found it. My dad happened to have a little multi tool with a phillips head on it and I got the door off and found the broken plastic piece. I was able to get the plastic piece reattached to the door and the metal rod back into it, but it's only a temporary fix as I'm sure it will fall out again soon with only half the plastic still there. I will probably go ahead and order a new set of two and wait for the other door piece to break!
My rearview mirror just FELL OFF yesterday. In fairness it was over 100 degrees in Austin.
My heat shields are completely gone. Rust and corrosion did them in.
My interior drivers side door handle is split, but functional.
Windows, of course, but those have been fixed with the aftermarket metal clips.
OEM roof rack, Thule Xpedition 696 rack, Rancho RS9000 shocks, OME 913 coil springs, 3" lift, American Racing Teflon Chambers wheels, Yokohama Geolandar HT/S G051 tires (275/70/16), Energy Suspension greaseable bushings, steel-braided Kevlar-reinforced brake lines, WeatherTech wind deflectors, Malibu 18w driving lights, Plasma SuperWhite 100w headlights, NGK Iridium plugs, K&N drop-in air filter, Optima Red Top, Psychos2 rear-door subwoofer enclosure w/CDT Audio 10" sub, Blaupunkt subwoofer amp, iPod Video 80GB, Kenwood KVT-617 DVD head unit w/7" motorized touch-screen, Kenwood GPS HD navigation module, Kenwood iPod adapter, Kenwood back-up camera, Sirius radio, Flowmaster Extreme Off-Road muffler (black diamond-plate steel) w/ carbon fiber tip, Ford Taurus OEM cup-holder/coin tray (single-DIN/lower bay), personalized license plate "ORBITAL", 3M window tint, debadged, removed rear seat, custom 'radiation symbol' side magnetic signs, VX Concepts front skid plate
The little blue light that comes on when I push the a/c button on the dash burned out the other day... wonder how hard it is to get in there and replace? Everything else still works fine, I just can't leave it alone, it's bugging me not having that blue light on!