Me too. They look really good...for the price if they hold up this will be a great deal...my fingers are crossed (mainly since I don't want to have to tear it all apart again for a whileOriginally Posted by RamAirZ
).
Super VXer
Me too. They look really good...for the price if they hold up this will be a great deal...my fingers are crossed (mainly since I don't want to have to tear it all apart again for a while
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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Super VXer
Okay...update!
Unless you plan on doing a ton of extra work to remove the inner cups order two #80-3619. Looking through the manual there are two lock ring clips that hold those cups in...not accessable easily. I tore both sides down and put the 3619 on the drivers side. Everything fit great. Balls and cages look the same as the factory shafts. Figured I would just pull the cup off the other shaft and install it as I did the other one. Unfortuneately I found out the hard way that the one with the inner joint was one of the y joint types....and since I tore it appart I can't return it...so the VX sits in the garage 1/2 torn apart waiting for the other shaft that I just orderedHopefully it will be here by mid week.
Here is a comparison pic of the OEM and EMPI shafts...
Super VXer
Okay, I'm not quite clear on what you're saying Billy....
Are you saying our CV shafts are the same length, & we should order two of the same part #?
Super VXer
Yes. and the part# we should order is for the CV without the inner cup. And it's hard to see the comparison when one is covered in grease and the other is in a plastic bag lol. Awesome that it works though!
1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread
Super VXer
FOr what its worth, we sat around the campgroud trying to get the CVs to come apart. Jerry said that there is a tension ring inside the inner-inner joint that if you hit the outer wring with a hammer while pulling it apart, sometimes you can get them out.
For those that are replacing CVs, I think its a much better idea to replace the whole thing. It may cost you an extra 20 bucks each, but the time you will save in labor makes it well worth it.
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
Super VXer
what do you mean the whole thing Marlin? Inner cup and all? That's alot more labor and how would you get the inner ring to clip back in?
Super VXer
No, I was talking about breaking the CV into its two parts, which is what it sounds like billy did. The CV allows flexing at two points, the cup, and a close to the middle. You can then break the CV into its outer and inner portions via the middle flexible joint.
BOOOOOOO!!!!!! I just noticed while looking at mine that one of my mecatech boots ripped. Grrrrrr, those things are expensive. Won't be buying those again. Looks like a have another project next week, or perhaps I will go the big swede route and just pump grease in there every once in awhile. I think he has been doing that a very long time with no problems. Mine tore at the small diameter portion, so at least the grease will still be in the joint. Gonna try and zip tie around the remaining part and see how that goes
Last edited by Marlin : 08/08/2010 at 10:23 AM
Super VXer
The outer joints are not designed to be taken apart...which is probably why "strategic hammering" is necessary. I doubt that is what Billy is doing.
When I break a CV I just replace it from the cup outward with a junkyard CV for $40 or less...I get new boots as part of the deal too.
I know, I know, VX CVs are "special".
95 Trooper with a buncha stuff nobody here cares about...
Super VXer
Well yah...
I know, I know, VX CVs are "special".
They have less headroom.
Super VXer
Nope, was trying to remove the inner joint from the cup...but, it was a totally differant type joint (y type). So I ordered another without the inner joint (part# 80-3619)which will work fine using the factory inner joint/cup.The outer joints are not designed to be taken apart...which is probably why "strategic hammering" is necessary. I doubt that is what Billy is doing.
When I break a CV I just replace it from the cup outward with a junkyard CV for $40 or less...I get new boots as part of the deal too.
I know, I know, VX CVs are "special".
Super VXer
Well yah...
They have less headroom.
Super VXer
If you are using the factory inner joint and balls, what part of your CV went bad?
Super VXer
oops...the cup/inner shaft. The passenger slde was binding in 4hi & lo...drivers side was clicking in 4lo.
Last edited by Triathlete : 08/09/2010 at 06:15 PM
Super VXer
This "y" type CV is a Tripod style, right...used mostly in Part Time 4x4 rigs....AWD usually getts the plunging CV with balls,race, and star...
Still, I have used other junkyard CVs, as well and most have smaller balls....no pun intended
Billy, thanks for jumpin in and being the tester on these...any pics of the tripod joint???
Super VXer
No pics of the tripod. I sort of put it back together. Since I can't return it, I will pull it apart and get some when I get dirty again putting the new one in. I figure I will hold onto it since all the other parts are the same (shaft, boots and the other joint) for spare parts. The boot are really nice thick silicone type.
By the way, ordering these through Amazon has been great. My original order was placed on a Sunday and with regular shipping I recieved them on Wensday. Ordered the other new one on this past Sunday and UPS just dropped it at my door!
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