Purolator pcv valve

[habs10]

Went into a couple of local Advance auto's to pick up a purolator pcv 1061 and everyone one of them brought out the right box but it appears that they have changed the design. Wonder if any one else has seen this.

[VX KAT]

Yes, I discovered that too about 4 months ago.
Used to be all black with sharp edges on L...
now they're brown and blue plastic, different edges.

[habs10]

Does that newer pcv valve fit better or work better because I was thinking of going back to the Isuzu pcv or maybe swapping that valve cover with an 2003 Axiom to get that metal screw in type. What do you think?

[VX KAT]

Does that newer pcv valve fit better or work better because I was thinking of going back to the Isuzu pcv or maybe swapping that valve cover with an 2003 Axiom to get that metal screw in type. What do you think?

I don't know yet as I've only put about 2,000 miles on it. The base was quite a bit harder to get in, had to put some oil on the edge and I still didn't get it 100% flush with the grommet...really close, but not flush like the old style was. I assumed the base circumference was just a hair larger than the previous model, or my grommet had swelled or sumpin??

I won't have any opinion until I change it out next oil change (which isn't that far off) and rattle it and see what it sounds like. I've kept my last few for reference, as they each seemed to sound different (and they were all the black Purolator 1061), they all sounded muffled to different degrees, sure not like a new one.

I'll bet they went with a different supplier (probably cheaper). I don't recall right now what country of origin the black or the brown said they came from.

I checked at a PepBoys recently, and had clerk check some backstock boxes to see if they had any of the black ones -> nope, all brown/blue. That was another difference, these were boxed, the black Purolators were carded.

I don't recall if the gang thinks the OEM was good or not??

[yellowgizmo99]

I had to put grommet on pcv then put in hole to get to fit with the oil also.

[mhill]

So Sue whats the verdict? I will be changing my pcv soon, which brand has the groups approval?

[WILLY]

I'm not sure where the pcv is,if i'm right i think i have the metal scew in on,cause that thing is the only thing i see that could be the pcv?

[VX KAT]

I'm not sure where the pcv is,if i'm right i think i have the metal scew in on,cause that thing is the only thing i see that could be the pcv?

The PCV valve is located right above the front, driver's side cylinder (I can't recall which cyl # that is). In this picture, on my plastic engine cover, right side, front, see the square thing projecting to the right (about 1" below the silver stripes)? The PCV is directly under that.

Just SLOWLY wiggle your engine cover up.
There's 4 pegs holding it on.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T lose the 4 rubber inserts that go over the pegs.
They tend to fall off as you are lifting the cover.

As far as brand...many use the Purolator, but I know many use other brands too, but can't recall the brands right now, been too long ago. Do a search and I think many posts should come up.

[blacksambo]

The old purolater 1061 had a metal slider valve, the new one has a spring mechanisim. Try to keep cleaning your old one if you'd like with carb cleaner. It's probably better.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

I'm pretty P.O.'d about the quality of these parts from various manufacturers as I started with Purolator PCV's and had them pull apart in two pieces as well as stick (not rattle) shortly after being purchased.

I tried Autozone's DEUTSCH PCV VALVE for a 2000 ISUZU TRUCK VEHICROSS 4WD

Unit Price: $3.49
Part No.: PCV193
Weight: 0.05 lbs.
Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days
Store: Normally Stocked

only to have them also stick (quit rattling) shortly after purchase. I sometimes wonder if my choice of oil (Mobil 1 Synthetic) isn't causing the PCV's to stick? Also tried a PCV from NAPA made in the USA only to have it stick closed not long after purchase too.

The longest working one I've had so far was one I purchased from some Mom & Pop place in Moab Utah after my newly purchased Purolator stuck closed during my road trip to Moab. But I finally had to replace it after it started to repeatedly stick closed.

I'm currently running one I bought from some Mom & Pop place in Edinboro, PA that I do like in that it has a larger diameter which "seems" to let my VX idle smoother when it is functioning correctly. I've gotten myself into a habit of checking for "rattle" after every fuel stop as I always check the oil level anyways. Usually like every 2nd fuel stop mine isn't rattling and I give it a shot of PB blaster or SeaFoam and then it rattles perfectly for like 2 tanks of gas before sticking again!

When my PCV sticks closed...my breather cap on the opposite valve cover starts foaming oil due to the crankcase pressure building up internally and releasing pressure as well as oil spray out the breather. Kind of nice in that I get a visual indication that the PCV isn't working...however...kind of sucks because I have to top off my oil due to usage/leakage. I swear my idling isn't as smooth too when the darn thing sticks as well. I am wondering if your best bet isn't to stick with the OEM PCV from ISUZU???

I was surprised to see that my '07 Mustang doesn't have a serviceable PCV as per the owners manual...time will tell if this is a great design!

[VX KAT]

I agree JR, I've had at least 2 of the black Purolators come apart in two pieces when removing. And a few that were hardly rattling at all....which is all the more worrisome for someone like me who has no skill, diagnostic or mod abilities to fix or change anything.

Anybody have any opinions on the OEM one?

If Billy and Mav had their OEMs functional for a really long time, is it worth trying that one again? (probably costs a mint comparatively!)
When I first changed mine, it was an OEM, at 65k (but could have been replaced obviously).

[Mile High VX]

Anybody have any opinions on the OEM one?

At $13.50 I think I'll pass and find another solution/brand that works. I'm happy with my Microguard, but I don't use any oil so that a plus.

No saying that this is the right thing to do, but in the past when I had other cars that used oil I just drilled the hole in the bottom of the valve bigger, took out the rattle and never worried about it again. Gotta be careful with this because you can cause the engine to run lean and that causes other issues.

[VCrossfan]

Does that newer pcv valve fit better or work better because I was thinking of going back to the Isuzu pcv or maybe swapping that valve cover with an 2003 Axiom to get that metal screw in type. What do you think?

[johnnyapollo]

I've had two of the black ones fall apart on me - and the brown one does fit better on my VX. No issues so far.

-- John

[VX KAT]

Doesn't a faulty PCV throw a CEL or engine code? Is leaking oil the only sign you'd ever get that your PCV had gone bad?

Pulled VT_Mav's questions from the other thread.....Good question....

~Would you expect a code to be thrown?....

~If it stuck OPEN, would you expect an oil spray mess in the engine bay?

~If my oil level doesn't drop, BUT the PCV valve does NOT rattle when removed....is that really considered a malfunctioning PCV?

~Or, might that imply a malfunctioning PCV doesn't affect oil consumption?

~If the old PCV has some rattle, is it still functioning?

~Some of my old ones have a rattle that sounds like it's wet/muffled...I assume from oil...wouldn't that be expected?