Cladding

[Daly]

Came across this site. It seems to have a whole bunch of products that would work nicely to fix, improve, color our cladding.
http://www.urethanesupply.com/plastifixhowto.php

Anyone ever try sanding out scratches before using restorer refinish or some of the products on the above sight?

[etlsport]

the product listed in the link "plastic fix" specifically says it wont work on polypropolyne (ie what our cladding is made of)

[Daly]

I never knew what our clading was made of, thanks.

I already use retorer refinish so I really was hoping that something had tried sanding/working cladding and had some advice on that.

[Luna X]

The cladding is raw, stamped out from the factory. If you notice, it has a slight texture to it and once a mark or scratch is put in it, it's there for good. A decent dressing may hide or camouflage small scratches, but they would still be there.

[mrlarrys]

I Just tryed this stuff called armor-dillo TS-1 it seems to be holding up (2 months) and it can be found on the web at www.armor-dillo.com . this is the best stuff I have found so far.
Larry

[rowhard]

Certainly reads well. Here is a web site with more info.
http://www.autocosmeticproducts.com/Armordillots1.htm

[Riff Raff]

Certainly reads well. Here is a web site with more info.
http://www.autocosmeticproducts.com/Armordillots1.htm

x2. Great "link"(s). After reading the above mentioned website links, the Armor Dillo TS-1 appears to be the miracle cure for our VX cladding. Even the official GM Tech Bulletin mentions it "by name" for their Avalanche cladding (remember, ISUZU is a GM subsidiary company). According to the info & GM-TB, the most critical step is to use a "damp" lint-free towel to wipe the surface after treatment with TS-1. Further, MR. LARRY's has already tried it on his cladding with great results.

I've used Refinish Restorer only on my Hood Insert and it has returned it to like-new condition with a OEM factory looking sheen. However, I haven't used R/R on my side cladding yet because other VX member's have reported chipping/flaking and that has made me extremely skittish for R/R cladding use.

Having said that, my plan now is to only use R/R on the Hood Insert and to use Armor Dillo TS-1 only on the side cladding material. Plus, I really like the fact that the TS-1 comes in pre-treated "packet wipes" which will aide in its application. I just ordered the TS-1 (4-pack) for $30 from ROWHARD's "link" to give it a try.

[hyperkid]

I need to refinish my cladding too. After all the reading I am a little weary of using R/R. Has anyone tried the methods or products listed in the isuzu service bulletin?

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=12867

[Grif]

I dont understand how R/R could possibly chip. I've been using the product without any problems whatsoever. Its not a paint that coats the plastic, its not a dye, and its not a silicone surface treatment that just lasts a week like Black Magic et al. Its a solvent that penetrates the plastic, allowing it to be cleaned and resurfaced very safely and lasts for months and months if not a year.

[VX KAT]

I dont understand how R/R could possibly chip. I've been using the product without any problems whatsoever. Its not a paint that coats the plastic, its not a dye, and its not a silicone surface treatment that just lasts a week like Black Magic et al. Its a solvent that penetrates the plastic, allowing it to be cleaned and resurfaced very safely and lasts for months and months if not a year.

I don't understand it either....but it seems to be chipping whereever anything comes in firm contact with it...
On my pass fender I kissed a small branch/bush in Moab, and there's a clear area of missing R/R and the actual cladding shows the abrasion/scuffing...so I know it occurred when the branch abraded the cladding.

And the front bumper is peppered with chips as you can see....I'm at a loss I only have 2 coats on (about 1 yr apart), think I should do a few more or have any ideas on what could have happened or what I can do about it? I prepped the surface thoroughly. And I have no other areas chipping or peeling, just the front and where I brushed the branch....so that led me to believe it had to be from dirt /road debris striking at highway speeds and, of course, direct abrasion.

[vt_maverick]

...Its a solvent that penetrates the plastic, allowing it to be cleaned and resurfaced very safely and lasts for months and months if not a year.

But to me that seems inconsistent with what several owners have reported since applying it; maybe that's what the bottle says, but it surely seems that in addition to whatever "penetrating" it does, it also coats the surface with a hardened veneer. I wonder what "resurfacing" really means if the product itself forms the surface that has to be refinished. From my perspective it seems likely that trail and road rash are causing Sue's problems; as she points out, how could it be anything else if it only affects the front? I guess the only question is whether the front surfaces were somehow damaged/contaminated before R/R was applied, but that doesn't seem to jive with how well Sue claims to have pre-treated.

Not picking at you Grif, just trying to encourage more discussion. A year ago R/R seemed like the salvation everyone had always wanted, and to some members it still seems to be so. There has to be some reason why different members are having different results.

[Grif]

Not picking at you Grif, just trying to encourage more discussion. A year ago R/R seemed like the salvation everyone had always wanted, and to some members it still seems to be so. There has to be some reason why different members are having different results.

Mav, I know yer not picking at me. And my thoughts are the same as yours. Why are some people reporting problems when my experience has been very positive?

Could there be an interaction between previous treatments used on the cladding and R/R? I definitely could imagine some chipping if the cladding had been painted or clearcoated. R/R is not for painted surfaces (sorry Riff, hood inset R/R treatment was prolly not a good idea, tho i used it on mine once, with "meh" results). It is a penetrating solvent after all. It could possibly weaken paint or even dyed surfaces if the solvents used are unfreindly with eachother.

Of course my experience is only mine, I cannot speak for others and more input is definitely appreciated.

Oh, and my description of what it does was not lifted from the bottle, it was my own personal observation of how the substance interacts with the plastic.

[rowhard]

R/R, personally, I don't like it, it's to fiddly. I have the best part of a full bottle if someone want to buy it.

Looking forward to Riff Raff's experience with TS-1.

Until then, I will stick with One Grand ERV http://store.carcareonline.com/onegr...pumpspray.aspx
Yea, I have to apply it every wash, but it takes me about 6 minutes to go around the VX, simply spray and wipe

[VX KAT]

In anticipation of applying R/R, I went almost 3 months with no treatment of any kind on my cladding (and nothing from the car wash), actually got a tad faded out looking. Even recall somebody in Moab 2009 telling me to treat my cladding as it was so dry looking! I prepped with washing after washing, then even used Windex and 409 (I think). Really don't "think" the front cladding was prepped in any different fashion, but I agree, mav, that could be a possibility. My can could also have some contamination or something different in the batch. Guess we'll never know. But I'm really glad to hear it's working so well for some.

Know the label said it actually penetrates the plastic, but I can't say that I "saw" that, or could really say one way or the other. I do know it formed a nice hard satin finish that never washed off or deteriorated in any way. About a year later, I decided to add a 2nd coat cuz I read the instructions and it said you can do that, and I thought it would be a good, final step.

When I did the 2nd coat, it seemed to me to be much shinier, which I didn't like, but oh well, it's permanent.

John, you're using One Grand ERV....did you find a way to remove the R/R, or does that stuff successfully go on top of R/R? I've even thought of using some super fine sandpaper and just ever so lightly sanding everything, hoping it would open up some pores, that I could then soak with 303 or the TS-1.

Boy, my 1st choice would be to "remove" the R/R if I could.....then try the TS-1 or 303. I'm now with you John, wiping it down with something frequently would not be a problem, now that I know what I know.

[rowhard]

John, you're using One Grand ERV....did you find a way to remove the R/R, or does that stuff successfully go on top of R/R? I've even thought of using some super fine sandpaper and just ever so lightly sanding everything, hoping it would open up some pores, that I could then soak with 303 or the TS-1.

Yes, it wiped right over the top, but then the R/R has been on for over a year. As far as sanding, think I wouldn't. You would be dubbing contaminants into the substrate it's self. Seem's like I read to use turpentine to remove R/R.