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Thread: Share Your Detailing Tips

  1. #16
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    Step 1: PM rickshaw

    Step 2: Do what he does

    Step 3: Realize you don't need any more tips or hints on detailing because your VX may never again be touched by human hands because of it's now perfect glowing finish.

    Step 4: Spend plenty of time regretting all that work you did to get it this pretty because now it seems like absolutely everything in the world is conspiring against you to make it dirty.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ascinder View Post
    Step 4: Spend plenty of time regretting all that work you did to get it this pretty because now it seems like absolutely everything in the world is conspiring against you to make it dirty.
    Nah, you've got to get over that if you really want to enjoy your vehicle. I was that way with my G35 (first vehicle I ever bought, right out of college) and it drove me crazy. Plus it didn't help that it was black, so while it looked amazing when clean, it looked terrible (at least in my previous opinion) when anything got on it.

    Fortunately I learned a lot about detailing products on that car though, so my VX reaps those rewards. Nothing wrong with working hard to keep your car's exterior/interior in good shape, you just can't obsess over it or you stop enjoying the truck.

  3. #18
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    Y33TREKker: Thanks for the encouragement! The photo I posted of one of my scuffs was from after I'd hit it a couple times with a buffer and a light compound. I'm to the point that I feel like I need to leave it alone before I make a weak spot in the clearcoat. I'm a little worried after reading posts here about "thin paint." Is there an advantage of using a sponge pad over the terrycloth pads I typically use?

    I really love something you motioned…

    TIP: If you're shopping for an orbital buffer, get the one with the slowest speed. Faster doesn't mean you will finish quicker or the end result will look better. You will just increase the likelihood of accidentally burning through to your primer. Also, the heads come in many sizes. I recommend getting the smallest one you can find (usually 5" - 7" in diameter vs. the larger ones - 9" to 12".) A bigger head covers more area, but a smaller one is a LOT easier to manage along the curves. Bigger doesn't mean faster unless you have a perfectly flat surface. In fact, on a vehicle with a lot of curves, the opposite is true. Also, buy the bonnets online in bulk for 1/2 price and keep plenty in stock.

    VT Maverick's tip (posted elsewhere): Don't use fabric softener on your car drying towels/rags because it makes them less absorbent.

    Which brings me to…

    If you have a good wax coat, a California Duster works MUCH better. Also, when I need to use Meguiar's Detail Spray to remove water spots, bird poo, etc., it doesn't leave streaks. Oh yeah, my point - the detail spray smears badly if you remove it with a towel that has been washed with fabric softener or dryer sheets.

    Protect your wax coat by using a soap designed to prevent removing the wax. I was taught to wash vehicles using dishwashing soap but it turns out that's a great solution for instantly removing all your wax!

  4. #19
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    A lot of places sell adjustable speed controls for woodworking routers. They just plug in between the router and the wall. No reason they wouldn't work for a buffer too to slow it down if necessary. They're pretty affordable too.

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