Y33TREKker: Thanks for the encouragement! The photo I posted of one of my scuffs was from after I'd hit it a couple times with a buffer and a light compound. I'm to the point that I feel like I need to leave it alone before I make a weak spot in the clearcoat. I'm a little worried after reading posts here about "thin paint." Is there an advantage of using a sponge pad over the terrycloth pads I typically use?
I really love something you motioned…
TIP: If you're shopping for an orbital buffer, get the one with the slowest speed. Faster doesn't mean you will finish quicker or the end result will look better. You will just increase the likelihood of accidentally burning through to your primer. Also, the heads come in many sizes. I recommend getting the smallest one you can find (usually 5" - 7" in diameter vs. the larger ones - 9" to 12".) A bigger head covers more area, but a smaller one is a LOT easier to manage along the curves. Bigger doesn't mean faster unless you have a perfectly flat surface. In fact, on a vehicle with a lot of curves, the opposite is true. Also, buy the bonnets online in bulk for 1/2 price and keep plenty in stock.
VT Maverick's tip (posted elsewhere): Don't use fabric softener on your car drying towels/rags because it makes them less absorbent.
Which brings me to…
If you have a good wax coat, a California Duster works MUCH better. Also, when I need to use Meguiar's Detail Spray to remove water spots, bird poo, etc., it doesn't leave streaks. Oh yeah, my point - the detail spray smears badly if you remove it with a towel that has been washed with fabric softener or dryer sheets.
Protect your wax coat by using a soap designed to prevent removing the wax. I was taught to wash vehicles using dishwashing soap but it turns out that's a great solution for instantly removing all your wax!
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