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Thread: Cladding: Trimming and BFH question

  1. #1
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    Cladding: Trimming and BFH question

    Hi all, new member here from Ohio.
    Ive searched through the forums and could not find what i was looking for, so i'm hoping someone can help.
    I just installed VR3 Recon wheels (18x9 with +18 offset) onto my Yokohama Geolanders A/T's (285/60/18). Everything looks great, but unfortunately i need to trim in front of the wheel as well as behind. Trimming in front was no problem, however, behind the tire, there is rubbing on the bolt.

    My questions is: would you recommend removing the bolt or keep the bolt in, before using the BHF to pound back the metal...any noticeable effects from having the metal bent back?

  2. #2
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    used a BFH to bend it back, no issues. Pics in my gallery I believe.
    Ryan Christiansen

    Trooper Skid Plates, OME 912's, Stric9 Sliders, Load Warrior with extension, Apline sub in rear door, Apline front speakers, Alpine head unit, Definity Dakota MT 285/75 R16, Aussie Lockers Front and Rear, 4.77 gears and Warn Manual Hubs.http://picasaweb.google.com/RyanVehiX

  3. #3
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    I used a MFH to lightly tap the bolts back. I was expecting it to be a big deal, but it only took a few seconds on each side. I don't see any issues with mine - nothing buckled or looks out of place. (275/65/18)

  4. #4
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    SAWZALL!
















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    15xIronman
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  5. #5
    Member Since
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    Approach your mission in logical steps-- first simply "remove" the famous bolt (located at extreme bottom of front fenderwell behind driver side front-left tire without using a BFH), and see if that solves the problem. If by removing the bolt gives the needed additional clearance, then you can use a few small sheet metal screws to keep the inner fender-skin in place (if required at all). Generally speaking, the use of a BFH should be a last resort when all other methods have failed.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riff Raff View Post
    Approach your mission in logical steps-- first simply "remove" the famous bolt (located at extreme bottom of front fenderwell behind driver side front-left tire without using a BFH), and see if that solves the problem. If by removing the bolt gives the needed additional clearance, then you can use a few small sheet metal screws to keep the inner fender-skin in place (if required at all). Generally speaking, the use of a BFH should be a last resort when all other methods have failed.
    So where on the list does my suggestion fall?

  7. #7
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    I think pretty close to dead last Billy. I have the same offset and tire size and you will need more then just a bolt removal. Use a large punch/drift place on the bolt head, a 16 oz ball peen and adjust till it's right.
    Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    SAWZALL!

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I don't see how that is funny, I took a grinder to the whole thing after hammering wasn't enough. The more I look at it, the more useless that whole assembly is. Cut away!!!!!! Just make sure you primer it after you are done to prevent future rust problems.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  9. #9
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    You should be ok with just the bolt removed. I have slightly larger than you and did not need to do anything else. Are you not lifted?

  10. #10
    Member Since
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    thanks everyone for the input.

    my VX is stock height.
    I removed the bolt and still had rubbing issues, so I ended up pounding back the fender and leaving about 1/4" of clearance.

  11. #11
    Member Since
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    I am surprised that you are at stock height. I had to crank my torsions bars running the same offset and tire size

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