Thanks, guys. Sounds like the first step is to dig in and make sure 100% of the old seal was removed and the shift shaft isn't buggered up.
Thanks, guys. Sounds like the first step is to dig in and make sure 100% of the old seal was removed and the shift shaft isn't buggered up.
This is the tool for putting the seal back in and it helps to remove it too iirc.
I found mine on eBay for like $20 but Matco has it.
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/to...pe=T&cat=2238#
Bart
Bookmarked! Thank you!
Oh, and I forgot to mention - your information about which direction the seal goes is listed earlier in this thread.
Oh awesome. Glad I remembered then cause I sure don't now!!!!
Bart
Thanks for the discussion. I have the same problem with mine.
Yeah, it is kinda a pain in the butt to do.
Bart
Apparently, it can be a little tricky! My regular shop tried twice and made the leak worse. I finally took it to a dedicated transmission shop and was told the seal wasn't put in right (had a "wrinkle") and all of the old seal wasn't completely removed.
Mark is absolutely right, you need that tool to get the whole seal out!!
Bart
Sounds like one of those tools we need to keep in the "member toolbox" to be passed around as required (like the modified wrench for the FPR.) I really doubt you'll be using more than once (unless your name is deermagnet!)
Gregg
2001 Proton Yellow #1379
Hey Mark, do you think JB weld on the old seal would stop the leak?
...let me back track. My seal started leaking after the body lift mainly from the auto-trans linkage being out of adjustment. Everything is fine now but the seal must have split and is now leaking.
I know JB weld probably isn't the best fix but i'm doing the 5-speed AR5 swap next summer and just want to limp the auto trans through the winter/spring. I definitely want to fix the leak to avoid any problems before next summer but it sounds like installing the new seal is a PITA.
Thoughts?
The seal can leak from two spots. If it leaks around the shaft, then it can't be cemented 'cuz the shaft has to turn. If it leaks around the outer edge where the seal meets the cavity, then J-B Weld like I did should do the job. You'd have to get it really clean. You can't use carb cleaner or alcohol with J-B Weld. You have to clean and prep with acetone.
Mark
how far is the seal supposed to go in? will it be all the way flush or stick out a ways once seated have gone through two now both seal for a few days and then work themselves loose again.. getting alittle old. lol
Looks like I am going to need to do this.
In preparation, is there anything I need to drain, or prep otherwise before I start taking the mode selector switch off and pulling the old seal with that nifty tool?
I would hate to get a mouth full of ATF