And so it begins...

[Ascinder]

To remove the exhaust pipes from the engine, I used a couple of "wobble" extensions. Use 1/2" not 3/8"-ask me how I know. Be very careful too, because it's easy to round off the nuts at the angles you'll be working at. The real PITA you're probably going to have is the upper transmission bellhousing bolts attaching it to the engine. Those were very difficult to persuade out. If you have small hands it helps.

[Buffy]

I have never actually removed a torsion bar before. If I was reading the manual correctly, I do not need to use a torsion bar key to remove the bar?? I just need to mark the bolts and both ends of the bar then remove. Does this sound right??

[Ascinder]

Yep, and measure your distance from the top of your tire to the edge of your wheelwell just to be able to set it back up where it is now. It isn't absolutely necessary, but it may save you having to look up the stock numbers later. Once the mounts are detached and the adjuster bolts are loosened, the bars slide out IIRC.

[Buffy]

I have all 4 wheels up in the air at the moment. Do I need to jack the side up that I am removing to release tension??

[Ascinder]

Not exactly, you will just need to loosen the adjuster bolt all the way out until the arm releases at which point the shock absorbers if still installed will force everything downwards(if your shocks aren't blown). You may have to use a jack on the wheel or A-arm( a little bit only-and remember to support your vehicle elsewhere) to compensate for the shock wanting to extend. You should then be able to wiggle the torsion bar out(assuming everything else is disconnected). I feel like I'm forgetting something though. It seems there may be one or two more things holding the torsion bars in, but nothing major. Mine have been out for quite some time now. You may have to fight your swaybar a bit too since it will try to make one side do what the other side does.