blew out my CV Joint

**killinformula** · 09/08/2010, 05:55 PM

Well was playing around in the mud after the rain and she is blown, the boot cut open and i can reach my hand in there and move parts around... no good!

It is the drivers side. Where do I buy one to put in the car? I followed all the how to's and am ready to go and try to replace it, but i cant find anyone who has a CV.

Your help is much appreciated, i cant drive to campus till she is fixed and i hate the bus!

Braden

**Triathlete** · 09/08/2010, 08:01 PM

Factory CV's will run you close to $500 each new...ouch. I am running Empi's. They don't have a VX specific CV but the trooper ones work. I got them on Amazon for about $70 each. The quality is deffinately better than what you will get from autozone, checkers, etc...they sale remanufactured CV's. The Empi's are all new. So far, about 2 months, they are working well. Haven't had them off road yet to give them a good testing though

**killinformula** · 09/08/2010, 08:21 PM

Originally Posted by Triathlete

Factory CV's will run you close to $500 each new...ouch. I am running Empi's. They don't have a VX specific CV but the trooper ones work. I got them on Amazon for about $70 each. The quality is deffinately better than what you will get from autozone, checkers, etc...they sale remanufactured CV's. The Empi's are all new. So far, about 2 months, they are working well. Haven't had them off road yet to give them a good testing though

would you by any chance have a year range for the trooper or even better a part number?

also, is there anything special about the drivers side CV i have to know, or is it the same procedure as the passenger side?

PS... i am kind of excited i blew my cv, it will now be my first real project on the vcross!! i will be sure to take plenty of pics!

**RickOKC** · 09/08/2010, 08:08 PM

Would this be something that should be replaced as a pair?

**RamAirZ** · 09/08/2010, 08:12 PM

If RCV can't come through with something I plan on buying the EMPI shafts, and if I do I'll be giving them a good testing in October

**RamAirZ** · 09/08/2010, 09:12 PM

empi part number 3619 is what you would need, 2 of those. Should be for any 95+ Trooper. Now mind you the "balls" are slightly smaller in the cages but they still work. Not sure how they will do offroad as they haven';t been tested yet but Billy is doing ok so far.

**killinformula** · 09/08/2010, 09:21 PM

Originally Posted by RamAirZ

empi part number 3619 is what you would need, 2 of those. Should be for any 95+ Trooper. Now mind you the "balls" are slightly smaller in the cages but they still work. Not sure how they will do offroad as they haven';t been tested yet but Billy is doing ok so far.

need 2? in other words replacing both sides is necessary? is this what you are saying i need two of?
http://www.amazon.com/Empi-Constant-...006634&sr=1-10

Also thank you for the replies!!!

**Triathlete** · 09/08/2010, 10:17 PM

Yes, that is the correct part and you do not need to do both sides if only 1 is bad. Procedure is the same for both sides. Have fun!

**killinformula** · 09/08/2010, 10:32 PM

and there is no difference between the left and right cv joint, as in the actual part? all auto parts stores here are saying they only have for the passenger side, are they interchangeable?

**RamAirZ** · 09/08/2010, 11:37 PM

The drivers side if different if you replace the inner portion of the axle with the "stub". The part number provided allows you to remove your CV's leaving the inner green cups intact and you put these inside your stock cups. Now if you wanted to replace the cups too then yes the drivers side would be different

**p_justin13** · 09/09/2010, 08:26 AM

has anyone had issues with removing the lower bolts on the lower ball joint when doing the replacement procedure. I had to cut the damn things out with a torch they were a pain in my arsh.

**Marlin** · 09/09/2010, 08:47 AM

Originally Posted by p_justin13

has anyone had issues with removing the lower bolts on the lower ball joint when doing the replacement procedure. I had to cut the damn things out with a torch they were a pain in my arsh.

Mine took some "Coaxing" and my VX has cancer pretty bad.

**RamAirZ** · 09/09/2010, 09:06 AM

That sucks, the nuts were "stuck" on there pretty good? Mine came right out, pressed the lower ball joint out with a puller tool then unbolted it.

**Marlin** · 09/09/2010, 10:56 AM

Originally Posted by RamAirZ

That sucks, the nuts were "stuck" on there pretty good? Mine came right out, pressed the lower ball joint out with a puller tool then unbolted it.

Puller? I just hit it once with a BFH and it pops out.

**RamAirZ** · 09/09/2010, 11:03 AM

Mine wasn't as easy, but the puller took all of 15 seconds to pop it off. That and I don't like hitting the stud of the joint with a BFH, if you screw up the threads, good luck getting a nut back on lol. I've had to grind down the stud on them before and rethread one when that happened, even using the nut as a protector it can still booger up the threads

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