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Thread: diff drop question

  1. #1
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    diff drop question

    Has any one tried just moving the hole bracket down on it's mounts is this possible, to just put in spacers in where the brackets already mount with longer bolts?

  2. #2
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    Welder Guy & I are looking into that as we speak.

    Prolly won't make much of a cost difference but the installation will be SIMPLE by comparison.

    The plan is to have 2" spacer blocks at each of the 2 frame mounts but then to stabalize them with plates between the 2 blocks. It's kinda curved so the braces will be sorta tricky.

    If all goes well, Ldub will guinea pig the prototype for us.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  3. #3
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    I have a buddy that suggested 2" body pucks and a metal brace.

  4. #4
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    I thought about the body pucks but the ones I had available had too small a bolt hole...
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  5. #5
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    What is the bolt Diameter I have a place where i can get about any size puck

  6. #6
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    I don't remember but I think it was around 5/8".

  7. #7
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    Seems like I remember someone trying this and it didn't clear the upper A arm or something like that.

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  8. #8
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    well if it don't we'll do the old cut and paste ......i mean weld cut and weld

  9. #9
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    You can get I think 3/4" maybe a little less, the portion of the bracket closest to the front of the truck will contact your steering linkages if you bring it down to far. I explored this option on my Rodeo a long time ago and even checked the VX. You could drop it a LITTLE but not enough to get around cutting/welding.
    1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by RamAirZ View Post
    You can get I think 3/4" maybe a little less, the portion of the bracket closest to the front of the truck will contact your steering linkages if you bring it down to far. I explored this option on my Rodeo a long time ago and even checked the VX. You could drop it a LITTLE but not enough to get around cutting/welding.
    Damn, you beat me to it. Just got home from Joe Darlington's place, picked up the RS and my diff drop brackets. He said pretty much same thing, you might get 1/2 to 3/4". Not worth it. He is willing to make more diff drop brackets, Iam sending him mine as cores. 200 bucks for the brackets, another 100 if you don't want to mod your own cross member. Shoot me a PM if interested.

  11. #11
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    got all the stuff to do it now that i'm home and have the welding tools i didn't have being stationed in Cali. just have to decide how much to drop ..... whats the norm. 2" 3" ? how far do i have to drop the cross member?

  12. #12
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    2" drop should be all you do.

  13. #13
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    Yeah, no more than 2". The driveshaft can't take much more than that and getting the assembly back to the frame would be rough with bigger brackets than that. I lowered my crossmember on one side only.








  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZEUS View Post
    Yeah, no more than 2". The driveshaft can't take much more than that and getting the assembly back to the frame would be rough with bigger brackets than that. I lowered my crossmember on one side only.







    Justin, that is an interesting way of doing it. I was just gonna notch the cross member and weld a plate to the bottom, but dropping one side seems like a lot less work. Hmm, gotta poke around under there when I am done with the RS.

  15. #15
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    And it's not so much the driveshaft as it is the CV's hitting the lower control arm if you go too low

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