Car Audio - Amp suggestions.

[JHarris1385]

That is something I will have to check out.

The subs I purchased are:
http://www.bazooka.com/products/mobi...-Subwoofer-P95

Not sure about the wiring either.

The speakers were PO installed.

[Riff Raff]

I'd say send an E-Mail or call CRUTCHFIELD (visit www.Crutchfield.com). They will give you an unbiased opinion, and you won't be spending extra money on items you don't really need.

[VXorado]

That is something I will have to check out.

The subs I purchased are:
http://www.bazooka.com/products/mobi...-Subwoofer-P95

Not sure about the wiring either.

The speakers were PO installed.

Are you using a Bazooka enclosure?



I had a bazooka sub in my first car, it actually sounded pretty good for an old setup (got everything used from my brother-in-law). I know a member here has a bazooka tube mounted above the jack compartment on the wheel well. Not sure how it sounds but definitely saves cargo space.

I have a 1200 max watt dual amp with a 800 max watt X-plod sub in a slim truck enclosure. It was cheap, cost just over $100 for everything but sounds good for my offroad toy.

Let us know what you get

[tom4bren]

Or you can be like the Dubster & use Minimus 7 speakers.

[Grif]

Or you can be like the Dubster & use Minimus 7 speakers.

Wow... Minimus 7. Never thought I'd see those in THIS forum. Great little speakers for small space near field monitors. In a vehicle, ehh... not so much. Freq response 55hz-20khz is great for such a small speaker but efficiency sucks at 88 1w/1m and with a long throw 4in woofer rated at 10-15 watts, you cant push them with enuff power to make them loud. Positiong for those little guys makes a world of diff too.

Great for small personal radios like a bedroom stereo or small shelf system, even computer speakers if you have an amp to drive them. I have two pairs that I haven't used in a coons age and was so impressed by their sound back in my college days I designed a pair of speaks using four of those little long-throws and some peizo mid-tweeters that got around a lot of the efficiency problems, but alas, I couldnt cast the aluminum enclosures so I made them out of MDF. They worked well but by that time thier size became so large that the size/performance "WOW" factor had diminished.

Kinda OT I know, but it took me back to 20yrs ago. hehe srry

[pbkid]

ok, im gonna tune in on this one. sorry for the lengthy post, but for once, i consider myself somewhat of an experienced person on the subject.

everyone posting information- PLEASE for GODS SAKE use RMS ratings... "peak" or maximum ratings are completely useless and make no sense.
Beau was completely right on this one, RMS ratings are 'continual' power. So they are accurate ratings taken on each and every item when its made.

jharris-
one of the most important things for a good sounding and long lasting system is to match your RMS ratings on all your products. The best anology i've ever heard for matching your power is this- give a football player one cup of water and see how long he can perform at 100 percent, give him a whole jug of water and he will take however much of it he wants.
It works the same for 12v systems, overpowering is fine, underpowering is very bad.
first, subs-
the bazooka's you listed are 200w RMS. so, depending on whether they are single or dual voice coil, you theoretically need a 400w RMS amp.
so, first find out if they are single or dual voice coils (also find out if they are 2,4 or 8 ohms per voice coil)... any local shop can throw a DMM (digital multimeter) on them and tell you exactly what they are. Once you find that out, let me know what your shop tells you and i'll be happy to help you find an appropriate amp.

speakers-
90 percent of speakers are 4ohms each. (infinity and bose are good examples of exclusions, they are 2 ohms or 1 ohm)
and speakers can range 40-120w RMS (each).

factory decks are around 8-10w RMS and aftemarket ones range 12-20w RMS. so, your giving your speakers 10w, when they require 50w. they arent gonna last long. although, most people run speakers directly off the deck and work fine for years, they will definately last MUCH longer and SOUND 80 percent better with an amp giving them the proper power.

so, thats the over-analyzed, difficult answer to a relatively basic question

i honestly wouldnt worry much about amplifying your speakers, focus on your subs and you will probably be happy with the results.
go to the local shop and ask them to tell you the resistance per sub, and we'll find a good set up for you.

[tom4bren]

... overpowering is fine, underpowering is very bad.

Sometime when you have an hour or two, you'll have to 'splain that logic to me. From an Electronics Engineer perspective that is bass ackwards.

[pbkid]

The problem with running lower powered amps with higher RMS speakers is that ppl tend to push the amps to try make the more power hungry speakers louder. Running the amps so high (overmodulating) introduces noise which manifests itself as wild fluctuations in audio frequencies that can damage both the amp and the speakers.

Using a speaker with an underpowered amp is not a hazard in and of itself. Its when humans try to turn up the volume to try make them sound good that can be a problem.

yup. very correct grif. especially when referring to midrange and highrange speakers (any amplification is probably more power than the deck provides)

Sometime when you have an hour or two, you'll have to 'splain that logic to me. From an Electronics Engineer perspective that is bass ackwards.

well, i really only understand the basics of it, and the principles taught to me for functionality and longevity of car audio.
What I've always been told, by anyone who i consider an expert (people with 10+ years in the car electronics business) is that its always better to overpower speakers... Basically due to what Grif has said above, that it requires the gain's on the amplifiers to remain to a minimum and creates less distortion.
The best technical explanation that i've heard is that low power causes distortion, which causes 'wild flucuations' as grif said, which damage the voice coils and eventually blow speakers.