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Thread: 2 Questions???

  1. #16
    Member Since
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    2001,Kaiser Silver, VX, 0563
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    i just noticed that you said you got apt IIIs.. they have been out of production for some time now.. make sure to check the date codes on them before installing those tires..

    and VT, you make a good point, I have yet to see a 285 width tire recommended for use with a 7" wheel. many folk are running them with no issues, i for one did have an issue with feathering the edges of my tires with a 285/60/18 on stock rims. wider rims has corrected the problem, but as stated before, the aftermarket wheels being wider and with less offset made me trim the front fenders a bit more


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  2. #17
    Member Since
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    Thanks I know these were from the last run by Bridgestone. But I cant complain for the price my friend let me have them for. I will only be using them to test bigger fitments..

  3. #18
    Member Since
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    2001, PROTON YELLOW, VehiCROSS, 1451
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    According to the tire calculator on www.1010Tires.com; yes, the industry standard rim width range for a 285 series tire is 7.5" -- 9.0". So, we are only asking the tire to suck up 0.25" on each side. Can the tire bead handle being squeezed an additional 0.25" on each side-- you bet, and maybe even a lot more. Tire manufacturer's have chosen that specific rim range width because it is the most comfortable for the tire and it is well within safe bead limitations; however, I would venture to say that it is far outside the danger parameters that the tire can actually tolerate before un-seating itself from the rim/bead.

    I would not recommend anything wider than a 285 series or 11.5" width tire be mounted on a 7" wide rim. A 295 or 305 series tire would definately be pushing the stress factor on the tire bead to possible unsafe limits using a 7" rim. As Etlsport mentioned, there are a bunch of us that are using 285 series width tires on our 7" OEM rims with never a problem.

    The fact remains that the Stock OEM rims of the VX (both 16's & 18's) are very unique in their offset/backspacing and were specifically designed for the VX. You will not find any commercial aftermarket wheel with the exact same spec's, unless it is custom-made to replicate the OEM rim.

    A major problem our VX's have is the very tightly cramped confines of the front wheel-wells. The best we can do is take steps that help minimize rubbing and clearance issues when installing larger size tires. The strict use of OEM rims (whether 16's or 18's) greatly help in this regard to install larger tires with minimal fitment problems.

    I'm still waiting for someone who has a "lifted" VX to someday install 285/75R18 (35" O.D.) tires using the Stock OEM 18x7" rims and see how they fit. That would be an awesome combination with maximum O.D., and minimal fitment issues.


  4. #19
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riff Raff View Post
    A major problem our VX's have is the very tightly cramped confines of the front wheel-wells. The best we can do is take steps that help minimize rubbing and clearance issues when installing larger size tires. The strict use of OEM rims (whether 16's or 18's) greatly help in this regard to install larger tires with minimal fitment problems.
    I don't think our front wheel well is as small as you think. My wife's RS is basically the same truck, minus all the plastic hoo hah that we have. There is a TON of room in there. I did no trimming for her 33s and I would bet I can get 35s in there with maybe a bit of trimming. Big swede got his in there and he has the wide stance mod as well as some decent offset. I think on the OEM 16" VX wheels I have, those 35s would fit with no trimming. You can see how much room there is on the RS, we just have the cladding that makes everything look smaller than it really is.

    If you remove that plastic splash guard, cut the inside part of the cladding where it wraps inside the rear of the front wheel well and pound/cut out the metal that is just there to give the cladding something to attach to, trim the front corners off the cladding, I think 35s would be no problem. My rim is very close to factory offset, at your recommendation a few years ago. you were 100% correct in that idea, but as I have said, I am running a 34x11.5 and I am close to stock front height, I have no rubbing, full turn stop to stop with no adjustments and I have had it full flex even with the IFS kit. It would certainly require some rear lift to allow for full flex.
    If you look in this pic, I am on the front low profile stops I upgraded to, and the wheel has plenty of room, once you remove the splash shield. I just rubber coated the inside of the fender with 3 coats or so, to prevent any chips from causing rust later down the road.
    I am sure its louder that way, but between the tire noise, the engine noise, and exhaust rattle, I can't tell


    (Yes, I know I busted both tow hooks off the truck, sheared the front bolts and bent the rear bolts. Back to the factory tie downs as tow points for me.)

    I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
    Thomas Jefferson

  5. #20
    Member Since
    Nov 2010
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    1999, silver, VX, 0290
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    one step ahead

    I have the calmini 3" inch lift, installed by local 4x4 shop recently, torsion bars cranked, ball joints flipped. Calmini, 4x4 shop and Discount Tire all said 285/70/R17 will work without modification. Thats NOT true if you want to turn. The clearance issues I have may be in part due to the offset of the aftermarket 17" wheels as mentioned by others in this thread. As it sits I will need to do some serious cutting of the front cladding before I can find out if it hits at full turn or full flex!
    FYI Calmini lift causes VX to sit very "stink bug" (*** up). They say the rear springs will settle in 1 - 1 1/2 inches????? After a week of having 600lbs of sand loaded in the back nothing had changed when I unloaded it.
    Now a question of my own. I was considering getting the Independent4x torsion bars to lift the front a little higher to lessen the amount of cutting needed on the front cladding. Is this a good idea and will newer, stronger torsion bars give me more lift?
    I did not want do any cutting but now that the wheels are on I dont want to go smaller!
    I will work on getting photos loaded up soon.

  6. #21
    Member Since
    Nov 2010
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    1999, Astral Silver , VehiCross, 2547
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    This is great, seems I have stirred the fitment pot a bit. I have never used a large tire on a stock rim with a stock height before. But I have used crazy fitment practices in the past and still do. Google the following to see how I have stretched in the recent past.

    Hella flush or stance nation will give you an idea of some of the crazy fitment weve done.
    This is totally the opposite of what im trying to do now but you never know...

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