the fangs are the silver fangs on the front of the car, next to the isuzu emblem =)
In this case, they are an added feature that they put on the hood insert. There have been a few other members who have done this (Ldub & Marlin come to mind).
Usually when we talk about the fangs though, you are right ... the ones on the grill.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
LINE-X,
I can't see your pix whilst at work but I think you got the one that Riff Raff asked for in the first pic.
My grill fangs were removed by the PO & I've never wanted to replace them. I like the blacked out look mo betta.
Man, that beige looks nice.
Here's a pic of my Trooper. You can see what I am thinking.
My concerns with doing this are as follows:
1) Cost, I would want to do the interior and exterior. My Trooper is stripped on the inside already, and the only thing needed to do a perfect job would be to pull the glass. Does Line-X pull glass or would I have to do that on my own and then have the vehicle delivered to a Line-X shop?
2) My Trooper is currently spray painted on the inside and out, what kind of prep work (time, extra cost, etc) would be involved for Line-X to do a thorough job?
3) Is the beige very flat or is it shiney? I would would like to maintain that low sheen look, like a matte finish.
I think my Trooper would look great if I had this done. I would even consider having the roof rack, bumpers and grill done as well as some gas cans to match.
4) Another question, how does Line-X work around door hinges and such? Do you guys take all that apart (remove doors and hinges) and spray each piece? A little more infor there would be excellent.
What do you think something like this would cost on average?
Thanks - Bart
Not a big fan of the price yet but when I get a few more notches and dings it will be a bargain compared to buying new cladding. Once again who did you use and can you get them to do up a how to? I have seen posts that some shops refuse to do it because they do not think it can be done. With a how to from another shop it mght help others get this done.
One other thing any idea of the weight increase from the product?
"Take it up with my butt, cuz he's the only one that gives a crap"
Carter Pewterschmidt
Line-X, thank you for all this info - very helpful!
Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"
Yes, thank you. This is awesome info. I might just do this with my Trooper in the spring. I know I want to do the black parts, I'm just not 100% sure I want to do the tan parts yet. I might still opt for regular paint, however the Line-X option is very appealing since this is my trail rig and I'm sure i will drive through an overgrown trail in the future.
Thanks again,
Bart
I was at LKQ this morning, a helped a guy getting some misc Zu parts. He owns a body shop. He said they have done some jeeps with the Raptor spray kits and it came out great. The kit is on sale at a local auto paint shop here with the gun for 119. Under 500 bucks and he would do all the prep. (not including the cladding, I will do that myself) I see a possible birthday present for the VX. He said yellow is hard to do as well. But the raptor kit is completely tintable. I may try this for the cladding in black, and possibly hit up the whole truck in that army green I have been wanting
Thanks for the lead on raptor LineX!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCNc5OnOR1c
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/U-Pol...#ht_3409wt_668
I predict future happiness for Americans if they can prevent the government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of taking care of them.
Thomas Jefferson
Be careful when using solvent based products on plastics including polypropylene. Some solvents will melt plastics. Raptor does contain a lot of solvents (ACETONE, XYLENE, N-BUTYL ACETATE, 2-METHOXY-1-METHYLETHYL ACETATE), so you might test a spot first. Better safe than sorry!
Last edited by LINE-X : 01/06/2011 at 09:07 AM
I've still got the spare nose piece cladding. Lemme know if it's needed for any practice. It's been trimmed for tire clearance though so prolly not useful for anything other than practice.
LINE-X,
What's the process for masking off an area that you don't want covered? What I'm thinking about is masking off lettering in the center of an area that is going to be covered in LineX to let the original material provide just enough contrast to make it still visible. I'm not talking about real fine detail here, just a 4X4 or VX as far as the lettering goes.