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Thread: I DID IT! Line X on my cladding...

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  1. #1
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    Line-X, thank you for all this info - very helpful!
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  2. #2
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    Yes, thank you. This is awesome info. I might just do this with my Trooper in the spring. I know I want to do the black parts, I'm just not 100% sure I want to do the tan parts yet. I might still opt for regular paint, however the Line-X option is very appealing since this is my trail rig and I'm sure i will drive through an overgrown trail in the future.

    Thanks again,

    Bart

  3. #3
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    I was at LKQ this morning, a helped a guy getting some misc Zu parts. He owns a body shop. He said they have done some jeeps with the Raptor spray kits and it came out great. The kit is on sale at a local auto paint shop here with the gun for 119. Under 500 bucks and he would do all the prep. (not including the cladding, I will do that myself) I see a possible birthday present for the VX. He said yellow is hard to do as well. But the raptor kit is completely tintable. I may try this for the cladding in black, and possibly hit up the whole truck in that army green I have been wanting
    Thanks for the lead on raptor LineX!!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yCNc5OnOR1c

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  4. #4
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    Be careful when using solvent based products on plastics including polypropylene. Some solvents will melt plastics. Raptor does contain a lot of solvents (ACETONE, XYLENE, N-BUTYL ACETATE, 2-METHOXY-1-METHYLETHYL ACETATE), so you might test a spot first. Better safe than sorry!
    Last edited by LINE-X : 01/06/2011 at 09:07 AM

  5. #5
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    I've still got the spare nose piece cladding. Lemme know if it's needed for any practice. It's been trimmed for tire clearance though so prolly not useful for anything other than practice.

    LINE-X,

    What's the process for masking off an area that you don't want covered? What I'm thinking about is masking off lettering in the center of an area that is going to be covered in LineX to let the original material provide just enough contrast to make it still visible. I'm not talking about real fine detail here, just a 4X4 or VX as far as the lettering goes.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    LINE-X,

    What's the process for masking off an area that you don't want covered? What I'm thinking about is masking off lettering in the center of an area that is going to be covered in LineX to let the original material provide just enough contrast to make it still visible. I'm not talking about real fine detail here, just a 4X4 or VX as far as the lettering goes.
    There are several methods which depend on the challenges involved.
    1. If it's an area that will not have thick bedliner material around it, simply use masking tape. However, you may need to use a razor blade to cut the bedliner material if it gets thick is a spot. Careful not to end up with masking tape underneath the bediner's edge, it will be very difficult to remove it!
    2. If possible, we use a wire tape. We can mask, spray, and then pull the wire to produce a perfect edge.
    3. Remove the emblem, apply the bedliner, glue the emblem on the bedliner material with "3M Emblem Adhesive".

    Quote Originally Posted by VXjunky View Post
    are the fangs really made of titanium as ive heard they are...if so thats to unique to consiider covering IMO
    I believe it's just plastic.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINE-X View Post
    2. If possible, we use a wire tape. We can mask, spray, and then pull the wire to produce a perfect edge.
    Thanks.

    That's what I was looking for. Do they remove the tape/wire while the LineX is still wet or after it has cured?

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