Yeah, maybe it depends on which municipality, but here in Reno they just spread sand, I have not seen salt.
Bart
In NC where I live they have been using salt since I can remember but this year they started using some type of sprayable liquid and they coat the roads with it whenever we have a chance for snow. Not sure what chemical it is but might be better or worse than salt I dono
Just to add to this thread instead of making another about rust, how much rust is too much and when should I start doing something about it? I was actually thinking about having a body shop take off my axles and such and having them sand and grind off as much rust as they can and then using por15 or some other rust prevenatative on it. I realize this might be very pricey, but would make a huge difference on looks and possibly prolong the life of some of my parts. Anybody else gone to this extreme on their VX or car?
If I recall POR 15 actually changes the chemical structure of rust and seals to prevent future rust
"Take it up with my butt, cuz he's the only one that gives a crap"
Carter Pewterschmidt
It's not really the driveline and/or frame and suspension components that you should be worrying about. Sure, they may look bad with some surface rust, but they are all of such a heavy gauge steel that rust-through is unlikely in all but the most extreme of cases. The body panels, seen and unseen, are the most prone to rust-through and should be protected accordingly. Thorough washing and treatment of all metal parts, whether frame and suspension or body panels is the only way to slow the ravages of winter. Not driving a vehicle at all in winter is the only sure-fired way of keeping rust at bay. WD-40 is an excellent rust preventative when applied after every wash during the salty season. Priming and painting ANY exposed metal should always be your first line of defense...![]()
Vixer Fixer
If you've got the cash and the surface rust on the undercarriage bothers you that much, have at it. For what you'll get in return, I believe you're better off tackling that job yourself with some Rustoleum to shine things up down there and prevent further surface rust on the frame, etc.. Save the cash for things topside that are far more noticeable and by all means, keep 'er clean and shined all over to slow the decay. WD-40 really is an effective and affordable way to slow or stop rust and it makes everthing look clean and shiney and it stops squeeks. I periodically get under all my vehicles with a big ol' spray bottle of the stuff and spray it all down. I buy it by the gallon and use it in hand sprayers. It softens dried out rubber too and it will not harm paint, wiring, plastic or anything...Sure makes the cladding look nice! I shoulda bought stock in that company...![]()
My 93 Trooper has no rust on the body but the frame is rotted...it was a Massachusetts car.
95 Trooper with a buncha stuff nobody here cares about...
I had a '86 Mazda B2000 Ext Cab that looked immaculate on the outside, yet the frame was rusted through in all kinds of places. It does happen, that's why I tend to keep everything well-washed and sprayed down with "the WD" so as to not see that sort of thing again. For the record, I bought the Mazda that way for a mere $400.00 as a winter beater and she served me well, right up until the time I snap-rolled it three times and yet the frame still didn't break, amazing...