Nuke VX build thread

[sleveritt]

Hey all,
My VX build project has been taking longer than anticipated. It's a crying shame too since we had about 3 feet of snow in my area in the past month. Would have been GREAT to get it out and throw some snow around.

As some of you remember, my VX started off life with me after sitting at least a year in a small town in AR with a bad engine. Repair shop said about $7k for a reman engine, but then I would still be left with an engine with hard/expensive to replace parts. Couple that with the "limited" IFS and I opted for a driveline swap.

Here is where I began the planning (note the faded cladding):



Then I began my novice surgical removal of said driveline:




That is where I found the culprit to the horrible engine knock:






Triumphant at last!


Then it was off to the builder's:


He appreciated all the "work" I had done, but he still had a way to go. During this time, I was selling off parts from the VX and working my 2nd job as much as I could to help fund this project. John the builder got started by removing the remaining axles (hey, I needed wheels on it to transport it to him...)


Sourced a 5.3L (327ci) Chevy Short Block with 60K miles on it:


And a Dana 300 transfer case:


And a Turbo 400 automatic transmission:


Continued in next post

Sam

[sleveritt]

They had a hell of a time removing all the mounting brackets/braces/gussets for the axle mounts. John said it was the most reinforced front end he ever seen. Give him a break as he normally works on Jeeps. Once the frame was cleaned up for the motor/axle mounts:



Then nestled the 5.3L in the engine bay:



Then the Scout Dana 44 solid axles got new internals and upgraded alloy shafts/rotors/brakes to handle larger tires:






As you can tell, the tires barely fit!


Even with that kind of lift, the oil pan was too close to the front axle and needed to be shortened a bit:



Then the locking hubs were installed (for streetability - wife still wants to drive it)!


Got the gauges installed:



Continued in next post

Sam

[sleveritt]

Since it was running, I brought it home and began putting various parts back onto/into it:


Even driving it around the neighborhood led to MASSIVE RUBBING in forward, reverse and turning. So some trimming was in order. I started with the front and trimmed the cladding:


Then moved to the rear of the front tire and selected some metal to remove:




Then I moved to the rear axle for WAY MORE fun and excitement!






Then reinstalled the rear and side cladding:



As you may noticed the cladding had a refinish and restore session:



Finally, those headlight restoration kits seemed to work quite well. I was very pleased with my results!


Here is a reference photo of when I picked up the VX tires compared to the tires on my 3/4 ton diesel pickup.


Sadly, the VX is back at the builders. I uncovered a few areas where they did not double check their work. I am somewhat understanding since he was getting married that weekend and needed my vehicle out of the way since the reception was being held at his shop. First thing, the pin the connects the tranfer case lever to the shaft fell out literally in my drive way. Second, the transmission was way overfilled and was shifting erractically not to mention dripping everywhere. Third, the fuel gauge was wired backwards. I found that one out when I was driving a measured 2 mile route to calibrate the speedometer. The gauge read FULL but was actually EMPTY. There were other minor things that needed touching up, but the main reason had to do with the HORRIBLE steering. Truly, I could barely keep it in my lane up to ~40mph, above that, I needed some extra room to allow for lane wandering. I couldn't find any play in the system, so probably extreme bump steer.

So, it is licensed and technically driveable, but not safe. Probably going to go with hydraulic steering (still not sure). Also, only the driver's seat is mounted. Most of the dash is still removed and a few more things need attention. I still have to get it to an AC shop to get a compressor mounted, connected to my system, and get the HVAC wiring figured out. Hey, Moab get hot!!! I've already got the polyurathane coating containers in the garage (red for interior floor and black for undercarriage insulation.

There it is as of now. Like I said, more work planned. Let me know if anyone has any questions or suggestions. Take care!

[vt_maverick]

Nice work so far, I love reading these build threads where people do some absolutely mind-blowing upgrade. Looks like you've gotten farther than most already, can't wait to see how it turns out!

[VXorado]

Sweet, its looking great!!! What size tires did you install?

[ZEUS]

WOOHOO! Finally! You were torturing me! Like I was saying, nice goin, silent ninja! Regarding the steering... if you have room under compression, consider a high-steer setup to minimize bump steer and provide extra clearance.

http://www.dandcextreme.com/product.asp?pkID=106

The kit above could also take out extra steering slop because of the parts it replaces.

As you probably already know, the drag link should be parallel with the track bar throughout the range of suspension travel to eliminate bump steer.

I can't see from any of the pics; did you have a 3-link or radius arms installed in the front? Radius arms could be another reason for steering issues because of the suspension cycling characteristics and the steep angle they seem to be at. In either case, the caster angle may have not been tuned in yet. Hopefully, the upper link(s) were made adjustable to compensate.

I'd like to see more pics of the suspension and steering components if you get a chance... we could see some tell-tale signs of what may be going on...

It has really come a long way in a short time though so don't be so hard on your self... there will be LOTS of bug squashing to come!

[sleveritt]

Sweet, its looking great!!! What size tires did you install?

37"x12.5"x17LT Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar. Got a set of 5 but the spare may have to stay back at base camp, too large to fit on the inside and the roof barely clears the garage as it is.

Sam

[sleveritt]

The VX is back at the shop right now, but this guy has been building buggies for over 20 years now, so he gets first crack at fixing the problem (besides I found some math errors and double charges, so I've got some cushion money factored in). I had mentioned the hydraulic steering before because the steering box had such a small pitman arm, not enough on the turning radius. Longer arms would run into other components.

Rockkrawler makes a hydraulic unit that looked pretty good and cheaper than PSC setups. I will keep all these comments in my wallet for the next time I go out to visit the monster!

Sam

[Triathlete]

Psc stuff is bombproof though.90% of the king of the hammers rigs run psc stuff for a reason.

[sleveritt]

Psc stuff is bombproof though.90% of the king of the hammers rigs run psc stuff for a reason.

Yeah, well... that's not in the cards for me. This is a hobby for me and the family to enjoy. Doubt I'll need bombproof stuff, but if mine breaks then I'll know the next step!!!

Sam

[ZEUS]

The VX is back at the shop right now, but this guy has been building buggies for over 20 years now, so he gets first crack at fixing the problem (besides I found some math errors and double charges, so I've got some cushion money factored in). I had mentioned the hydraulic steering before because the steering box had such a small pitman arm, not enough on the turning radius. Longer arms would run into other components.

Rockkrawler makes a hydraulic unit that looked pretty good and cheaper than PSC setups. I will keep all these comments in my wallet for the next time I go out to visit the monster!

Sam

OK, without extra pics then... I am glad the VX is back at the shop. Please just take note of everything I have to say before you discard it. I am trying to help you as delicately as I can because I am naturally over the top. I know you are excited to be so far along in this build but I also know you don't have much experience in this stuff. I seriously doubt your builder has been building rock buggies for over 20 years unless his name is Soni Honegger. Perhaps instead, builder guy has been poorly wrenching on 4x4s for 20 years which supports why very apparent shortcuts have been built into your VX! This means his name is not Soni Honegger! I am trying to inform you that you have a poorly engineered and dangerous VX on your hands. Heed the warning signs you have already seen and ask yourself if they are appropriate for someone with so much professional experience:

"First thing, the pin that connects the transfer case lever to the shaft fell out literally in my drive way.
Second, the transmission was way overfilled and was shifting erractically not to mention dripping everywhere.
Third, the fuel gauge was wired backwards. There were other minor things that needed touching up,
but the main reason had to do with the HORRIBLE steering. Truly, I could barely keep it in my lane up to ~40mph, above that, I needed some extra room to allow for lane wandering. I couldn't find any play in the system, so probably extreme bump steer."

I simply ask that you ask your builder why (with all his experience) he has made decisions that work against your overall goal. With all the evidence of poor engineering I have seen I think you should approach him with a barrage of questions to protect yourself from being scammed/taken advantage of.

VXer's PLEASE, for selveritt's sake, back me up or tell him where I am wrong:

1) The stock lower rear links on the VX are known to be weak when controlling something as small as a 33" tire offroad. You have much more tire and therefore leverage than that here... Your links have been cut, perhaps sleeved (let's hope at least), and then welded together. Bottom line, they are weak, sloppy, not enough, and could be dangerous for you and your family.

2) The rear track bar. We can't see from the pics, has that track bar been lengthened or lowered, and if so, how was it done? You may have 6"-9" of lift on your VX and as such if the track bar was not lengthened or lowered, the driver side tire should be sticking out 1"+ more than the passenger tire. Notice the track bar is tied to the driver side frame rail... I'll get back to this.

3) The upper rear suspenion link. How was this one extended? Let's hope it was cut in the middle and then sleeved throughtout it's length at least. It does not see the abuse the lower arms do but it should still be modified correctly or, ideally, replaced.

4) Based off a pic I saw of beefy links sitting on the floor I am thinking builder guy assembled a 3-link in the front with a track bar, resembling the rear suspension. Since there is only one pic of the arms installed, I have to say, they are very short and at an extreme angle if they are indeed shown at ride height. If that is the case, it will always handle and ride like crap and is dangerous! When drooping (like during even a mild jump), the axle will move back so far you run the risk of breakage and a harsh absorption. When flexing, you will see EXTREME axle steer where the drooping side will move backward and the compressing side will move forward causing the VX to turn and steering input may not compensate, especially with the front locker engaged!

5) Did builder guy install cross-over steering? If he did not then your front track bar is installed backward!!!!! Look at it, the track bar needs to be INLINE with the drag link! If it is not then as the suspension droops the distance between the axle mounted end of the track bar and the passenger steering knuckle lessens... what this means is for every bump you hit the axle is shoved to the left and your steering wheel to the right!

This is what your front end should look like:
(Red is the track bar - Yellow is the Drag link)


6) Because of the short wheelbase of a VX, your new high center of gravity, your steep front control arms, the opposing draglink and track arm scenario in conjunction with the opposing rear track arm at an increased angle, when you hit a nice size pot hole or bump at speed the VX will scissor dangerously. The front axle will dodge to the left, your steering wheel will turn to the right and your rear axle will dodge to the right soon after, opposite of the front axle.

7) Spring rates? If he is a Jeep guy, I imagine he probably used Grand Cherokee springs... those would be better than TJ or Cherokee springs but may not be stiff enough...

8) What became of your sway bars? Please don't tell me all these problems were created and no sway bars were planned...

9) I would recommend stainless brakelines, adjustable proportioning valve and Hydroboost with this setup. Plus you seem to have no parking brake anymore so consider a Line-loc as well while you are diving into it.

10) The front drive shaft looks to be at a pretty steep angle as well. Consider a CV-style shaft and make sure the slip-spline depth is adequate.

I am merely trying to help you create the greatest and safest VX you can have, Sam. I hate so be the one to tell you your builder has A LOT more research and work to do... but I definitely see that as the case.

I wish you luck...

[jhigareda]

A V8 n better mileage too. I want it!

[Ebenezr]

Good luck to you Sam. Hope you work these things out and wondered what was coming of your project.

[Triathlete]

Nice!
What kind of angle did you put on the knuckles? To little knuckle angle will cause wandering which gets worse with speed. You may need to grind the selfsame in the inner knuckle of, rotate them and reweld them. I believe they are to be around 8 degrees.

[VehiX]

That VX is a BEAST!!!

Kudos to you and all of your hardwork