Just get some spare steel and weld in. You COULD get a spare set to weld in but I think it'd be easier to just get some steel.
Just get some spare steel and weld in. You COULD get a spare set to weld in but I think it'd be easier to just get some steel.
1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread
ic ic, I think I can tackle this on my own without having to buy a set. Now I just have to install a 220v plug in my garage. I just moved and my new garage is without one... lol
You'll also have to make some brackets to drop your crossmember or modify it to clear the pumpkin. You can run without the crossmember for a while till you figure out what is going to work for you.
You'll also have to notch a little bit of the curve on the passenger side towards the front to clear one of the bolts.
You'll have to remove your steering center link to drop the differential. The ball joints can be a real beeeotch to break free. Start working on them days or weeks in advance to make sure that they don't end up stopping the process when you're already committed to getting it done in a weekend. Do NOT use a ball joint fork - go get a pitman arm puller & a BFH.
As I remember any more of those little tidbits, I'll pass them along.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Put a smiley after you say that Bub.
My differential is already out... I removed the whole thing about a month ago, prop shaft cv's, diff, brackets, everything.... I was very frustrated...
This is also good to know I was just gonna us a ball joint fork on my air hammer but now I guess its back to the old tried and true method of using a sledge...
& when you put it back together, add some anti-sieze so it'll be easier next time.
Tom, I was just wondering if welder guy can still do the diff drop brackets?
"hey ya'll watch this!!"