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Thread: diff drop/ball joint flip

  1. #16
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    so basically for the diff drop it looks like I would cut out the bolt holes, slide the whole assembly down about two inches, and then weld it back in with some filler plate? What did you guys use for filler on the bracket? or I can get a second set of brackets from the junk yard and weld the bolt holes in from that to the plate?

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ebenezr View Post
    This is how I did mine.
    Eb,

    Were you able to determine if your setup rotated the differential at all. It looks to me like you did change the angle and I'm concerned that it could change the phase of the U-joints.

    Tom
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Barker View Post
    What will they fix about the cv problems? Take away the need to do a diff drop to save the cv's? That would be pretty awesome!
    Bob,

    RCV Performance has been making replacement axles for Toy-toters for years & their products are considered by most to be bullet proof.

    Basically they completely re-engineer the entire half shaft to utilize a different CV set up. I haven't been able to figure out yet what is different about their CV design but hope to find out soon (when mine is delivered).

    Tom

  4. #19
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    Just get some spare steel and weld in. You COULD get a spare set to weld in but I think it'd be easier to just get some steel.
    1999 Isuzu Vehicross-#1209- lots of mods - gone
    1995 Honda Passport: Lifted, Locked, 34x10.50's, just a few things..-Click for build thread

  5. #20
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    ic ic, I think I can tackle this on my own without having to buy a set. Now I just have to install a 220v plug in my garage. I just moved and my new garage is without one... lol

  6. #21
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    get on it!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by raver_boi_88 View Post
    ic ic, I think I can tackle this on my own without having to buy a set. Now I just have to install a 220v plug in my garage. I just moved and my new garage is without one... lol
    You'll also have to make some brackets to drop your crossmember or modify it to clear the pumpkin. You can run without the crossmember for a while till you figure out what is going to work for you.

    You'll also have to notch a little bit of the curve on the passenger side towards the front to clear one of the bolts.

    You'll have to remove your steering center link to drop the differential. The ball joints can be a real beeeotch to break free. Start working on them days or weeks in advance to make sure that they don't end up stopping the process when you're already committed to getting it done in a weekend. Do NOT use a ball joint fork - go get a pitman arm puller & a BFH.

    As I remember any more of those little tidbits, I'll pass them along.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post

    You'll have to remove your steering center link to drop the differential.
    My differential is already out... I removed the whole thing about a month ago, prop shaft cv's, diff, brackets, everything.... I was very frustrated...

    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post

    Do NOT use a ball joint fork - go get a pitman arm puller & a BFH.

    As I remember any more of those little tidbits, I'll pass them along.
    This is also good to know I was just gonna us a ball joint fork on my air hammer but now I guess its back to the old tried and true method of using a sledge...

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by raver_boi_88 View Post
    My differential is already out... I removed the whole thing about a month ago, prop shaft cv's, diff, brackets, everything.... I was very frustrated...



    This is also good to know I was just gonna us a ball joint fork on my air hammer but now I guess its back to the old tried and true method of using a sledge...
    I have done this many times, spend the cash to get the nicest pitman arm puller available, it is worth it. You still even with this might have to use the hammer :-)

  10. #25
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    & when you put it back together, add some anti-sieze so it'll be easier next time.

  11. #26
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    Tom, I was just wondering if welder guy can still do the diff drop brackets?
    "hey ya'll watch this!!"

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by dsallade01 View Post
    Tom, I was just wondering if welder guy can still do the diff drop brackets?
    Yah but you're better off with Joe Darlington. I'm sure he has a quicker turn around time. If he needs a set to modify, I've got em sitting in my garage.

    Lemme know after you talk to Darlington.

  13. #28
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    I could knock out a set in the next few days, if interested you can PM me on this board, email me at darlington-offroad@nc.rr.com or call 208-590-0104
    Owner Darlington Offroad Racing and Manufacturing

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