Maybe I'm having a brain far+, OK...um..don't answer that... you know...but is your stuff the same as the shop manual we can download? Or what is it? I didn't know there was anything else available, or rare or sensitive..... It is something we can purchase somewhere or how can we get a copy? My local mechanic hadn't ever seen a VX up close, but so far hasn't had to repair anything, but it would put my mind to ease if I could get him some more data/info/specs, or whatever, in addition to the shop manual. Gee, while yer a burnin' CDs...could I put in a request ??
Sorry for the t/j
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
I worry about what will protect the data from being lost period if something happens (God forbid) to you or your home. In "the biz" we like to say that a backup in the same physical location as the master is no backup at all. I'm still baffled as to why it's so critical to you to keep this data hidden from the community, but if you're intent on doing so, wouldn't it at least make sense to send a copy of everything to someone else here that you trust (Moncha perhaps?) so there's at least some way to recover?
My, aren't we curious tonight?
I've posted the vast majority of what I have, whole documents or at least the most useful bits. The huge list of very useful Isuzu service bulletins posted here would not exist without me. Didn't I just give up some Isuzu electronic Christmas gifts? A couple of them had never been seen by anyone here before. I've posted a bunch of Isuzu videos here that the world has never seen online, or maybe would have never seen if not for one person with the knowledge and ability to collect and host and post that stuff. That person is me!
Hmmm.... that makes me feel pretty important.
Enough of this thread jack!
I'll have to start a post later this week organizing the stuff I have posted and some stuff that maybe has never been seen before. Oh, the suspense!
And please keep in mind, a lot of the stuff I post violates copyright laws!
Mark Griffin
Last edited by deermagnet : 03/07/2011 at 08:25 PM
Depending On The Beating Of Course, Ha Ha
Can it take a beating like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXPQY_VRP6M
This is a very funny link...watch it. ( I have tears in my eyes from laughing )
Just to give you guys an idea of the races, here are a few videos from last year. Only 40% of the rigs that started the race actually finished. My brother-in-law raced twice and didn't get through one lap, so it can be pretty intense.
Helmet Cam from a Class B jeep Wrangler at Devils Playground (similar track to Class A)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imsHWmLYWPY
Harlan, KY KOH qualifier Class C (DVD preview)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xt-vQIgefHY
The Flats, NC Class A (VX class)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV9kbjayrO0
I have seen Shannons KOH rig up close and personal....believe me, his IFS does not even come close to looking like anything you will find under your VX!
Not sure how the rules work for the class you are entering...If your vehicle comes from the factory with some sort of traction device can you add a locker to the other axle and still comply with the rules? If so your VX has a limited slip in the rear so the best bang for your bucks would be a front locker (ARB or an Aussie with manual hubs).
Also I would definately beef up your rear links.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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You could probably go as far as saying Shannon's IFS doesn't look like anyone's on the planet. My comment was based more on principal.
Rules for Class A:
- Any axle swap is ok as long as it maintains stock suspension symmetry. So if it is IFS, you can't swap in a solid axle. If it is leaf sprung, you can't switch it to coils and links.
- Limited slips do NOT count as lockers and are ok.
- You can race with 33" tires and one locker
- Or
- 35" tires and no locker.
Does not matter what it came with from the factory (LSD, Open, Locker).
As an example, the 2009 Hummer H3 Adv pkg come with 33" tires and front and rear lockers. Even though that is a factory option, it would still be bumped up to Class B. The 2006 H3 comes with front and rear limited slips. So I could race that on 35"s and still be in Class A.
Do they make ARBs for the front and rear of a Vehi? I'll do more research on this too.
Front ARB yes, Todd Adams & Swordy have 'em. Rear can be done but mods are neccesary, Swordy has done that.
From the rules sounds like your best bet would be leave the lsd in rear and lock the front.
Billy check the vids - it looks like there's a speed element to these events - not just rock crawling - so high speed (relatively speaking) handling is a factor. Doesn't a locker in front adversely effect handling? That's why I was thinking locker in back and LSD in the front would be ideal.
Going up steep hills when traction is critical, weight bias shifts to the rear so the locked diff would be feeding torque through stronger components to the tires with the most traction. Meanwhile the front with LSD would slip a little when needed which would yield better handling in tight corners and also hopefully keep the driveline intact for the whole race. From what I've gathered, the CVs are a weak link and front lockers put a lot more stress on them...
But hey - I'm not an off-road VXer - I readily admit I've never driven a VX (or anything else) that had a locker - so this is all theory. Considering Redlyner is interested in going fast rather than crawling, what are your thoughts?
Ideally an ARB in the front. It is selectable on the fly. Flip a switch you are locked, flip it again you are open. That being said with a non selectable locker in front there is a learning curve for driving with it. Manual hubs will cure any on road issues.
An auto locker up front is not an option, it would have to be selectable. Hitting any high speed turn on 33"s in a VX (from what I have seen) would destroy the front end.
Ideally I would run an ARB in the rear and probably keep it open up front. Problem is, an ARB plus 33" tires would run me right up to $1800, leaving me around $200 for the rest of the race mod fund.
Trying to get the best initial bang for the buck setup. Later mods will come.... later.
Also, most important: to finish first, first you must finish.
HERE is an ARB for 650 obo on the Planet...