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Thread: Beating on a VX.... Top ten things that would break?

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  1. #1
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    Beating on a VX.... Top ten things that would break?

    If one were going to be abusing a VX offroad (highspeed plus low speed rocks), what would be the 10 things in order (opinions) that you think would break?

    I ask because in theory these would be the 10 items I would want to beef up first.

    Example:

    1. Bushings
    2. Ball joints
    3. Lower control Arms
    4. Ring and Pinion
    5. Engine Mounts
    6. Etc
    7. Etc


    Opinions??


  2. #2
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    tie rods
    CV boots/joints
    alternator if you are in muddy water
    transmission mounts


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport View Post
    tie rods
    CV boots/joints
    alternator if you are in muddy water
    transmission mounts
    +1...and lower links can bend on rocks

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDLYNER View Post
    If one were going to be abusing a VX offroad (highspeed plus low speed rocks) .......... I would want to beef up first. Opinions??
    Abusing any VX is a crime and fills me with a great sense of sorrow.

    The #1 item I would "beef up" first would be my Bank Savings Account with $$$ and prepare for its subsequent depletion.


  5. #5
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Riff Raff View Post
    Abusing any VX is a crime and fills me with a great sense of sorrow.

    The #1 item I would "beef up" first would be my Bank Savings Account with $$$ and prepare for its subsequent depletion.

    ...ohferchristsake grandma...live a little...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    ...ohferchristsake grandma...live a little...

    Anita
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    Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
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  7. #7
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Anita View Post

    .

    I'm rediscovering one of my favorite hobbies...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    ...ohferchristsake grandma...live a little...
    Quote Originally Posted by Anita View Post

    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    .

    I'm rediscovering one of my favorite hobbies...


    VX KAT
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    ...ohferchristsake grandma...live a little...



    seriously?-

    1. CV axles
    2. Tie rods
    3. control arms
    4. transmission mounts
    5. hubs
    6. then your onto mashing up some steel
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

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  10. #10
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    1. Tie rod (only thing I ever broke on my VX)
    2. Transfer case (no skid plate)
    3. Lower links (weak and can bend)
    4. CV's (I have seen them take a beating tho)
    5. U-joints
    6. Bump stops (one of my rear one's disappeared)
    7. Cladding
    8. CD Changer
    9. Seat back
    10. Er... Thumb? (by putting your thumb inside the steering wheel ring and smacking into something) er... old OE shocks could blow out
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  11. #11
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    I'm debating between a few vehicles right now to actually use as a race rig. I like the VX because of the price for what you get: $4.5k to $5k for IFS (which just destroyed King of the Hammers and Baja) along with the solid rear on long arms. Wheelbase is a little short, but a TJ won one of the races last year in Class A with a 94" wheelbase, so maybe it's not too short.

    Besides reliability (this would go with any 12+ year old vehicle), my only real concern is the Torque on Demand. I've watched dozens of Vehi youtube clips (many by Triathlete on this board) and it looks like once a tire is lifted, you are SOL on traction. Basically being open/open. I think an Aussie up front would hinder racing and an ARB would eat up nearly half of my parts budget to get it race ready.

    That being said, my wish list is around $3.5k in parts (including a cage and tires), but my parts budget will only be around $2k to start.

    My initial list (which covers several of the weak points listed by you guys) looks like:

    • Tires: $800
    • HD Lower links: $450
    • HD Tie Rod ends: $250
    • Comp Springs: $170
    • Wheel Spacers: $120
    • Fire Suit: $100
    • Greasable Bushings: $30


    Then I would still need:

    • Cage: $500
    • Airbumps: $300
    • Reservoir Shocks: $300
    • Harness: $65



    Class A racing allows one locker and 33" tires, or no locker and up to 35" tires. Originally I was thinking 33"s for the VX (285/75 16's), but was also thinking about about 32"s (265/75 16's) just for the sake of less stress on the parts.

    Thoughts on tire size??




    Just doing my research now so when I do pull the trigger, I can get it built quickly. There are 5 races this year and it would be nice to get one or two in.

    Other rigs that are/were being considered:

    H3 ($12k = too much)
    TJ ($5k, but we have one and wife doesn't want another- and its SFA)
    XJ ($2.5k, but 12 out 15 or so of the racers are racing these- and its SFA)
    Ranger ($3k, haven't done the parts research on these)

  12. #12
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    For Class A does the non-locked diff have to be completely open? In other words, would an Aussie in back, Isuzu LSD in front and tires 33" or less meet the rules? Seems like that would be a good compromise as far as traction vs handling...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDLYNER View Post
    Class A racing allows one locker and 33" tires, or no locker and up to 35" tires. Originally I was thinking 33"s for the VX (285/75 16's), but was also thinking about about 32"s (265/75 16's) just for the sake of less stress on the parts.

    Thoughts on tire size??
    For a wider alternate size M/T tire in the 32" O.D. range, check-out the 285/70R16 (32" O.D.) tires from TOYO and NITTO tire brands (they are the only two tire manufacturers that make this rare unique size). It may be just what you're looking for instead of the narrower 265/75R16 size. Best of luck to you on your racing endeavors. Please put the website of "Vehicross.Info" somewhere on the exterior of your VX when it's ready for racing. Cheers.


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by REDLYNER View Post
    I like the VX because of the price for what you get: $4.5k to $5k for IFS (which just destroyed King of the Hammers and Baja) along with the solid rear on long arms.
    I have seen Shannons KOH rig up close and personal....believe me, his IFS does not even come close to looking like anything you will find under your VX!

    Not sure how the rules work for the class you are entering...If your vehicle comes from the factory with some sort of traction device can you add a locker to the other axle and still comply with the rules? If so your VX has a limited slip in the rear so the best bang for your bucks would be a front locker (ARB or an Aussie with manual hubs).

    Also I would definately beef up your rear links.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    I have seen Shannons KOH rig up close and personal....believe me, his IFS does not even come close to looking like anything you will find under your VX!

    Not sure how the rules work for the class you are entering...If your vehicle comes from the factory with some sort of traction device can you add a locker to the other axle and still comply with the rules? If so your VX has a limited slip in the rear so the best bang for your bucks would be a front locker (ARB or an Aussie with manual hubs).

    Also I would definately beef up your rear links.
    You could probably go as far as saying Shannon's IFS doesn't look like anyone's on the planet. My comment was based more on principal.


    Rules for Class A:

    • Any axle swap is ok as long as it maintains stock suspension symmetry. So if it is IFS, you can't swap in a solid axle. If it is leaf sprung, you can't switch it to coils and links.
    • Limited slips do NOT count as lockers and are ok.
    • You can race with 33" tires and one locker
    • Or
    • 35" tires and no locker.


    Does not matter what it came with from the factory (LSD, Open, Locker).

    As an example, the 2009 Hummer H3 Adv pkg come with 33" tires and front and rear lockers. Even though that is a factory option, it would still be bumped up to Class B. The 2006 H3 comes with front and rear limited slips. So I could race that on 35"s and still be in Class A.


    Do they make ARBs for the front and rear of a Vehi? I'll do more research on this too.

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