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Thread: zinc drilled and slotted rotors

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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
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    99 Matte Midnight Sand Met... oh nevermind. VX #0377...Project ZU
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    Quote Originally Posted by soggybottomboyz View Post
    When I tackle this project should I expect any issues with senors, rust, etc.
    You'll need the Isuzu hub bearing tool get the old rotors out. I ordered it off ebay for less than $20 shipped.

    ...and like etlsport said- spray the bolts with PBblaster/WD40 a couple days before

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Apr 2004
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    I used SP Performance drilled and slotted rotors and stock Isuzu pads and haven't had a problem with either of them at all.

    If you can't find the Isuzu hub bearing tool then you can alter a Ford (I believe) hub bearing tool. I altered the Ford one and have pictures if you want to see what's up with that.

    Also, if you haven't seen it yet read through Kenny's thread on replacing the rotors and repacking the bearings. I had that and the instructions from Planet Isuzoo and everything went smoothly and easily.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  3. #3
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    I am on RI concepts too.

    All i say .....go get them
    Dakar was just the begining.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    2001 Mica Green VCS 0403
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    Thanks everyone. Do I need the hub bearing tool if I am just replacing the brakes & rotors and not the bearings? I need the brakes now, was hoping to do the bearings in the fall?

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    2000 Proton VX - 0776
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    IIRC, the bearings get service by default when replacing the rotors. I'll have to read the instructions to verify but the bearings should be either press fit or machine fit to the hub of the rotor.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  7. #7
    Member Since
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    You will need the hub tool to remove the nut holding the rotor onto the spindle. You will also need it for re-assembly, as well as a scale to determine pre-load on the nut so that you don't crank the nut down too much and bind the rotor up which would result in HORRIBLE gas milage.

    The bearings literally just drop into the rotor. No pressing necessary. There is a seal that goes in behind the bearing at the back of the rotor, but the front one is held in when you sandwich the whole assembly back together.

    I would strongly suggest reading this: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...bearing+repack It gives a step by step how-to on replacing the front rotors and repacking the bearings. There is a link in that thread to a how-to over on "The Planet" and that write up lists the tools and expendables that you will need to do the job right.

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