Installing fiberglass type skid plates -need ADVICE/HELP!

[VX KAT]

how'd you do it Mav? I pressed really hard on the bottom area, and maybe got the skid to move about 1/4" closer. Did you make the top 2 tight, and then work on the bottom, or did you loosen the top 2 a bit while trying to get the bottom to snug up closer to the holes? Did you end up sanding/filing the skid holes at all?

I can see how the slide hammer or a making a bridge would definitely help in this scenario.

I don't know how much I can push the ABS plastic w/o damaging it.

I even got a crazy idea of cutting off about 3-4" off straight across the bottom....no screws to install, and less likely to catch on anything or get scraped when off road.

[ron]

how'd you do it Mav? I pressed really hard on the bottom area, and maybe got the skid to move about 1/4" closer. Did you make the top 2 tight, and then work on the bottom, or did you loosen the top 2 a bit while trying to get the bottom to snug up closer to the holes? Did you end up sanding/filing the skid holes at all?

I can see how the slide hammer or a making a bridge would definitely help in this scenario.

I don't know how much I can push the ABS plastic w/o damaging it.

I even got a crazy idea of cutting off about 3-4" off straight across the bottom....no screws to install, and less likely to catch on anything or get scraped when off road.

Your plate looks great installed. Not sure why you and vt_maverick is having a hard time installing the plates. However, come to think of it, I do believe that the bottoms are attached to some sort of bracket? that can get out of position if the bumper was bumped or twisted previously. With a little effort, these brackets can be pushed back into place for proper re-alignment for the bottom screws. Once you get that resolved, then you can start all four screws at the same time just to get all screws in a few threads. Then you can tighten everything down.

Just still puzzles me why both of you are using longer than 40mm for installing the front plates. I actually used to send out 35mm for the license plate and 40mm for the bottoms when I sold them back then.

[ron]

how'd you do it Mav? I pressed really hard on the bottom area, and maybe got the skid to move about 1/4" closer. Did you make the top 2 tight, and then work on the bottom, or did you loosen the top 2 a bit while trying to get the bottom to snug up closer to the holes? Did you end up sanding/filing the skid holes at all?

I can see how the slide hammer or a making a bridge would definitely help in this scenario.

I don't know how much I can push the ABS plastic w/o damaging it.

I even got a crazy idea of cutting off about 3-4" off straight across the bottom....no screws to install, and less likely to catch on anything or get scraped when off road.

Your plate looks great installed. Not sure why you and vt_maverick is having a hard time installing the plates. However, come to think of it, I do believe that the bottoms are attached to some sort of bracket? that can get out of position if the bumper was bumped or twisted previously. With a little effort, these brackets can be pushed back into place for proper re-alignment for the bottom screws. Once you get that resolved, then you can start all four screws at the same time just to get all screws in a few threads. Then you can tighten everything down.

Just still puzzles me why both of you are using longer than 40mm for installing the front plates. I actually used to send out 35mm for the license plate and 40mm for the bottoms when I sold them back then.

Regarding cutting off 3-4" off the bottom edge with only the two license plate screws holding the plate, I would highly advise against it. You'll need at least 4 secure mounting points for the plate to be held safely onto the front of the vehicle. If you eliminate the bottom mounting points, you can jeopardize the plate's installation security and could possibly break off at time. I've some owners who replaced the top cosmetic screws with real screws into the cladding for additional security. Going less than the minimum 4 screws would not be advisable IMO. HTH.

[vt_maverick]

I got the license plate bolts in first, left them REAL loose (as in only 2-3 turns on the threads), then worked the lower bolts through the opening and onto their threads, then turned them until the plate contacted the cladding. Then I went back up to the license plate bolts, torqued them all the way down, then went back to the lower bolts. I tried the reverse a few times and found that to be impossible.

Looks good Sue!

[VX KAT]

Regarding cutting off 3-4" off the bottom edge with only the two license plate screws holding the plate, I would highly advise against it.

Oh, most know that was just one of my typical bizarre joking ideas when I'm frustrated....

I used 45s because I had the metal washer and then a rubber washer too. I tried both 35 and 40s and couldn't get it to catch.

...dang Ash, I can't even see getting a single thread started on those bottom ones, it's at such an angle, even when pressing the bottom. I'll snap some pics tomorrow when it's light.

Ron, I'll look more closely at the bracket you're talking about. Although I did note the cladding hole and the bracket hole were in perfect alignment.

Hey LUNA! What's your schedule look like?