How much front tire to cladding/bolt clearance is needed for off-road?

[RickOKC]

To those of you who take your VX off-road into the "big stuff" .... how much clearance is needed between the tires and the front cladding and the BFH bolt at the back of wheel well?

When I'm on flat pavement and turn the front wheels to position the tires so they are as close as possible to the cladding or bolt I have about 1/4". Is this too little? Should I trim more cladding / BHF more bolt?

I just don't want to discover that should have prepared better before I left home.

[ZEUS]

It sounds like it is too close, to me. Find something to drive on like a ramp to test your flex out a bit. If you place a rear tire on a tall curb or cinder block it will force a front wheel a little higher into the wheel well by greater body weight transfer. You could even use a floor jack to force some flex to see where you're at as a start tho. In my experience the worst rubbing usually comes from reversing.

[nocturnalVX]

I put 31" tires on my VX before any lift. Trimming helped clear them (barely), and I never had any trouble off-road on on.

[tom4bren]

Pull one of the hex head bolts and go to Lowes. Replace all that are in the 'danger zone' with pan head. They don't stick out as far and have a smoother edge so they won't damage the tire as much if there is contact.

It's funny that you mention more interference whilst in reverse. I've noticed that too.

[Mile High VX]

It's funny that you mention more interference whilst in reverse. I've noticed that too.

Ditto here...mine only rub slightly when I turn hard to back up my driveway to put her into the garage.

[RickOKC]

Thanks, everybody, you gave me some ideas for ways to get a little flex. I'll see if I can borrow a ramp from my neighbor. My poor ol' floor jack is just too wimpy to lift the VX (32" tires) and terrain is flat as a pancake around here so I can't think of a curb/rock/stump/etc in an area that wouldn't get me in trouble but I'll keep an eye out. It looks like I'll be shopping for some pan heads next time I check .

[Riff Raff]

Rick--- I think you'll be fine, too. I was stationed at Fort Sill, OK and the terrain in Oklahoma is not very challenging (mostly flat, rolling hills). If you do come into a difficult spot, just creep along slowly in 4-Low until you're clear of the obstacle. However, good idea on replacing the famous bolt with a rounded pan-head version to help protect your tires.

[tom4bren]

... good idea on replacing the famous bolt with a rounded pan-head version to help protect your tires ...

Bet that was hard to admit

[Riff Raff]

Bet that was hard to admit

LOL. Actually, it was quite easy Tom. I make a point to read every one of your postings and value your wisdom and input. Thank you for your expertise and knowlege, my friend.

[VXjunky]

Get a Room

[tom4bren]

BWAAHAAHAA!!!

[RickOKC]

the terrain in Oklahoma is not very challenging

"On a clear day you can see the back of your head!"

Actually (after months of searching), I'm finally starting to find some places nearby that are more advanced than a nicely graded gravel road. I even found some places near Ft Sill (Lake Ellsworth actually) that were good enough that I decided against proceeding further since I was alone. There are a few places in eastern OK that are extremely advanced, but I need more bunny slope time.

[Jay Dunford]

Rick--- I was stationed at Fort Sill, OK and the terrain in Oklahoma is not very challenging (mostly flat, rolling hills).

You just didn't look hard enough. As Rick stated there many very challenging areas around the state some of which have trails that I wouldn't try in a VX of any build level. This is true of anywhere in the country, just gotta look.

[Ldub]

LOL. Actually, it was quite easy Tom. I make a point to read every one of your postings and value your wisdom and input. Thank you for your expertise and knowlege, my friend.

Ewwwwwww...

[tom4bren]

I'm cornfused:

Did I just get dissed ... or ... did Riff Raff???