overheating is back

[VX KAT]

OK, gonna look into details of the Ron Davis radiator...gulp...and see what kind of moula I'd be talkin' here...gulp....also asked newthings for detail$.

After I faint, and dave revives me, I know I'll have to have my mechanic explore some of the "other" possible culprits.

Agree with Scott, you can have new radiator, shiney new cap, the prettiest new hoses, ect..... But if the thermostat isnt working right, none of that new stuff will cure your problem. Maybe it's just me, but I always start with the little (read cheap) stuff first. And these cheap things probably needed replaced anyway. .

Yeah, absolutely, going to have mechanic start next week picking off the possibilities (based on his eval and what he suspects). I'll also discuss various options with him re: radiator flush, alum radiator, etc...


1) Drove it for last 2 days up the big hill, with A/C, NO overheating at all... but AIR temp was at least 6-8 degrees cooler....can that small of an air temp variation 6-8 degrees (91 vs. 98-99) really make a big difference??

2) Talked to "Bill" today at Ron Davis Racing Radiators. He wanted to ask about some things about my VX before he finishes the design updates (from "newthings") on the aluminum unit.
He had me try some stuff:

• evaluating how far the fan blades protrude beyond the shroud (toward the rear of truck). The top of the shroud is a little deeper, for finger protection, but the sides are a little shallower.
  My fan blades BARELY break the plane of the shroud.....meaning, my fan blades are set well INTO the shroud. Bill said that set up moves LESS AIR.
  WHAT DOES EVERYBODY ELSES VX LOOK LIKE IN THIS REGARD??
  COULD THIS BE YET ANOTHER "HAND MADE" VARIANCE??

• moving the OEM main fan blades manually, feeling for resistance, when cold and when hot.
  We found it spun pretty well, even easier when engine was warm
  

• We checked to see if all bolts holding the radiator were tight and flush, with no spaces - checked ok.

• Dave and I already confirmed the A/C fan comes on appropriately.

• He asked if everything appeared to be OEM...he STRONGLY recommends ONLY OEM parts such as the blades, shroud, etc... He feels they're properly engineered for the vehicle, have certain tolerances, and are more durable in general.

• [*He advised the OEM mechanical fan can move MORE AIR than a twin electrical fan set up can, so he recommends we keep the OEM....and make sure it's functioning optimally.
  Is there a spec on the fan blade placement?.....gotta look that one up in the big manual.

Any comments, input????
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