Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

[TheGanzman]

Well, here's MY experience w/303. My 2001 VX is a two-owner, "high desert", garage-kept VX w/80K miles. Original owner used 303 on the cladding RELIGIOUSLY every 3-6 months; I've kept up that regimen over the 2.5 years I've owned it. Last Sunday I replaced the RR and Rear "underdoor" cladding with new (thanks, Merlin!) - I was VERY concerned about color differences between the existing cladding and the new cladding. There was ZERO difference between the two - you literally can NOT see a color/shading difference between the old and the new! Put me down as a serious proponent of 303...

[RickOKC]

That's a great perspective, Ganz!

Earlier, somewhere here, I commented that I thought 303 treatment made my cladding look "new - although I had no real frame of reference." I dunno, to me it just makes it look "right" - dark & satiny, not greasy and shiny.

[H3_VX]

Just to follow up on the 303, I've used it twice so far and i've noticed some streaking once i'm finished. Am I not using enough? Am I not drying it quickly enough or drying too quickly? It does look sweet after I wipe it off, but then a few minutes later it has kind of a hazy look for a day or two. My cladding still loooks almost new, I just want to know if I should be applying it differently. FYI, I'm using Microfiber towels to wipe and dry. I usually use 3 for the entire job just so I'm not using a dirty towel. I also wash the entire car with a pressure washer beforehand.

[RickOKC]

Hard to say for sure, but I my first guess would be that water may be getting mixed in with the 303. I've experienced streaking with every product I've tried due to that. Now after I wash/dry, I'll let the VX sit for at least several hours before applying 303 - if it's cool outside, I'll even let it air dry overnight or for a day or two. This insures all the water evaporates out of the pesky recessed areas/cladding screws, etc.

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Wash/dry VX
* Let it sit & air dry completely
* Wipe off dust with a slightly damp terrycloth towel (if I let it dry for more than a few hours)
* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.
* Wait a few minutes and thoroughly buff off the 303 with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
* Go to next section

I split up the cladding into 5 sections: entire right side, entire left side, front cladding, rear cladding, and finally half moon/door handles/etc.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

This has worked great and has consistently given me good results.

[H3_VX]

Hard to say for sure, but I my first guess would be that water may be getting mixed in with the 303. I've experienced streaking with every product I've tried due to that. Now after I wash/dry, I'll let the VX sit for at least several hours before applying 303 - if it's cool outside, I'll even let it air dry overnight or for a day or two. This insures all the water evaporates out of the pesky recessed areas/cladding screws, etc.

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Wash/dry VX
* Let it sit & air dry completely
* Wipe off dust with a slightly damp terrycloth towel (if I let it dry for more than a few hours)
* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.
* Wait a few minutes and thoroughly buff off the 303 with a clean, dry terrycloth towel.
* Go to next section

I split up the cladding into 5 sections: entire right side, entire left side, front cladding, rear cladding, and finally half moon/door handles/etc.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

This has worked great and has consistently given me good results.

awesome, thanks for taking the time to type this. i'll try next time around. so, you recommend a terrycloth towel?

[VX KAT]

Also, if you're using 3 microfiber towels for application, you may be wasting a lot of 303. I apply it with one 3"x3" to 4"x4" section of cloth cut out of bigger rags, old clothes, whatever is handy. Then I remove the excess with one of my old bath towels that has been relegated to "garage duty." Here's my full method:

* Drench a small rag with 303 and apply liberally to one section (see below).
* While the rag is still damp, go over that section again to help even it out.

The small applicator rag may look dirty as it cleans off places you missed during washing. Ignore it, it will still work out fine.

Absolutely agree with Rick...I use the corner "area" (maybe 3" x 4") of a small terry rag and just spray a few times.

Keep in mind I'm doing roof rack parts, not the cladding. You can get ALOT of mileage out of that damp section of rag. I use a rough terry towel cuz I'm using the rag to clean and rub off lots and LOTS of oxidation type crude off the plastic parts, so I need the rough texture.

After the cladding, use the damp area on your interior panels, dash, console, back seat, etc....

And also agree with Rick- you can use the rag area even after it's basically "black". I even continue to use the same area on the rag the next day after spritzing it with the 303 again.

[RickOKC]

awesome, thanks for taking the time to type this. i'll try next time around. so, you recommend a terrycloth towel?

I just figure terrycloth is absorbent, cheap and plenty soft enough that it doesn't have a chance on harming the cladding. I say save the nicer, more expensive microfiber for work on the painted areas that are more scratch-prone & delicate. Honestly, although I have some microfiber towels, I've never actually used them (where the heck are they?) I've always been perfectly happy with terrycloth even when polishing/waxing paint. (Tip: always remove any tags from the towel - they WILL scratch!)

Absolutely agree with Rick...I use the corner "area" (maybe 3" x 4") of a small terry rag and just spray a few times.

What I like about using a small rag (in addition to conserving 303, etc.) is that it makes it tremendously easier to get into all the small places like around the racks, gaps between the door/fender, front lenses, cladding bolts, etc.

I even continue to use the same area on the rag the next day after spritzing it with the 303 again.

Ha, I do that, too! Sometimes I notice the next day that I missed a spot.