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Thread: Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    Refinish Restorer, Mother's Headlight kit and 303 Protectant

    First of all, I believe it was KAT who told us about the 303. THANKS!!!!

    I went by my local marine shop today and picked some up. Dear god it really helps the rubber a TON. Already feels much more pliable and rejuvenated. So there's that.

    Second, The Mother's headlight Powerball restoration kit is fracking awesome.

    It took me about 15-20 minutes from opening the box and my lights were REALLY clouded and yellow. They are absolutely smooth and clear minus some deeper road dings. I just wish there was a great UV sealer that would work now.

    I'm keeping my new set of lights wrapped up until I absolutely can't restore this pair any longer. They look great!

    Here are some picks along with my RR treatment a year later (after washing only with no product ever applied since RR application).













    I recommend ALL 3 of these products very highly. If you have questions, just ask. I also updated KAT's thread on the RR.
    macintosh man

  2. #2
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    Thumbs up

    Amazin' stuff that 303!....I think I once said I wanted to dunk my entire truck in it!

    So glad to hear such good reports on the R/R, that's the way it was supposed to go!

    Wow, you don't even have any crazing or that weird lightly crackled looking area up top of the horn.....both mine do, but it must be sub-surface, cuz nothin' I tried even touched it. I just picked up a used headlight and it looks like yours...perfect up by the horn area, like new, and so is the rest of it.

    Lookin' sharp!
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  3. #3
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    What's 303? Missed that one. Thx

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by blacksambo View Post
    What's 303? Missed that one. Thx
    Amazing stuff for rejuvenating rubber and plastic. It's got a SPF of 40, and is used a lot in the marine industry/boating. It's white liquid stuff, totally non-toxic, no smell, easy to use, amazing what it does for rubber & plastic. I use it on painted metal also. Have done almost my entire engine bay in it. Check out the pics in my thread on how I use it to clean and restore the old, sun-baked roof racks I recondition.
    Can get it at RV and marine places, and Amazon too.

    http://www.303products.com/shop303/i...protectant.cfm

    http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...&highlight=303

    Can buy it at RV and marine places, and Amazon has it too.

  5. #5
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    I'm pretty amazed at how well the powerball bit worked. It's small enough I was able to get in around the horn really well. I've tried this twice with other kits and didn't even get close to this. They look new! There was heavy crazing and yellowing all over except the very bottom edge of the assembly. That drill and buffing sponge approach really made short work of it!

    KAT, do you follow the directions and wipe the 303 totally dry, or do you just let it soak into the rub er parts?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by technocoy View Post
    KAT do you just rub er parts?
    ....

  7. #7
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    Dub....> "bad boy bad boy whatcha goin do when they come for you..."

    On the plastic and rubber parts of the rack I spray it on and let it sit/soak for a long time, on the towers, end caps and flaps I usually do it overnight. It gets kind of dried up but I spray it again lightly the next day, then start working it with a rough shop rag. Rubbing really REALLY hard takes off the oxidation & crude off the plastic (including the nasty stuff inside the end caps).

    By the time I'm satisfied with the dry oxidized layer being removed, they are basically "dry" so no further "wiping dry" is necessary. And I can tell they've absorbed a ton of the 303 because they have a totally different moist look, so I like to leave them that way, not rubbing them any dryer. And they're not sticky or tacky so it works fine.

    I just lightly wipe the aluminum cross members after I've washed them. It leaves finger prints on metal surfaces like these, so I end up using a rag to grab and pack the cross members.

    Same with the plastic & rubber engine bay bits...just wipe down with the 303 damp rag, and leave 'em that way.

    I think the "wipe dry" instructions MAY be so it doesn't collect as much dust...I can see people complaining to them about that.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub View Post
    ....
    Damn, that's what I get for posting from my phone!!! Dub you're trouble, man. "paraphrasing" me like a politician!!!!

  9. #9
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    So many openings, so little time...
    Vixer Fixer

  10. #10
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    I tried the Mother's headlight kit today and here are my results:


    You can see the difference between the treated side and the untreated side.



    Here is shot lights on.

    Is it perfect, no. It is a big improvement though.

  11. #11
    Member Since
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    2000 Ebony VX #263 ****** VX-2 My weekend car
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    Technocoy, all I can say is... I love you....

    My headlights are going to get extra special attention soon!
    Anita
    2000 Ebony #263
    Original Owner- love her too much to part with her.
    AnitaProtich.com

  12. #12
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    Gear

    Quote Originally Posted by technocoy View Post
    I just wish there was a great UV sealer that would work now.
    I picked up a bottle of this (I think it was this - don't have it in front of me) at Auto Zone last weekend. They only had one bottle, right beside all the various headlight restoration products. I slathered it on my recently polished out headlights. We'll see if they stay shiney and clear longer than without the sealant.

    Click me

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by samneil2000 View Post
    I picked up a bottle of this (I think it was this - don't have it in front of me) at Auto Zone last weekend. They only had one bottle, right beside all the various headlight restoration products. I slathered it on my recently polished out headlights. We'll see if they stay shiney and clear longer than without the sealant.

    Click me
    Very interesting. I may go check out my local Autozone/Advance and see if they have this.

    Raider... I used my 18v drill and it definitely made easy work of it, but you are right, once you get the polish worked into the buffer you can really smooth em out quick.

  14. #14
    According to the manufacturer:

    http://bluemagicusa.com/index.php/bl...t_lens_sealer/
    Headlight Lens Sealer

    * For new & restored lenses

    * Keeps lens clear & bright

    * Protects lens from UV rays

    * Seals out dirt & grime

    * Prevents yellowing & hazing
    This may be the Headlight Sunblock everyone has been looking for.

  15. #15
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    I used the Mother's a few weeks ago and it worked great. FYI, the faster or more powerful the drill the better your results will be. I initially tried it with a 12v Craftsman cordless and discovered it wasn't working very well. I went to a more powerful industrial corded one and then got the results I was looking for. An 18v cordless may be powerful enough,though. idk.
    I'll be trying the 303 next week in hopes it will last longer than the Back to Black I've been using for the past few years.
    Raider

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