What's 303? Missed that one. Thx
What's 303? Missed that one. Thx
Amazing stuff for rejuvenating rubber and plastic. It's got a SPF of 40, and is used a lot in the marine industry/boating. It's white liquid stuff, totally non-toxic, no smell, easy to use, amazing what it does for rubber & plastic. I use it on painted metal also. Have done almost my entire engine bay in it. Check out the pics in my thread on how I use it to clean and restore the old, sun-baked roof racks I recondition.
Can get it at RV and marine places, and Amazon too.
http://www.303products.com/shop303/i...protectant.cfm
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...&highlight=303
Can buy it at RV and marine places, and Amazon has it too.
VX KAT
....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.
I'm pretty amazed at how well the powerball bit worked. It's small enough I was able to get in around the horn really well. I've tried this twice with other kits and didn't even get close to this. They look new! There was heavy crazing and yellowing all over except the very bottom edge of the assembly. That drill and buffing sponge approach really made short work of it!
KAT, do you follow the directions and wipe the 303 totally dry, or do you just let it soak into the rub er parts?
macintosh man
Dub....> "bad boy bad boy whatcha goin do when they come for you..."
On the plastic and rubber parts of the rack I spray it on and let it sit/soak for a long time, on the towers, end caps and flaps I usually do it overnight. It gets kind of dried up but I spray it again lightly the next day, then start working it with a rough shop rag. Rubbing really REALLY hard takes off the oxidation & crude off the plastic (including the nasty stuff inside the end caps).
By the time I'm satisfied with the dry oxidized layer being removed, they are basically "dry" so no further "wiping dry" is necessary. And I can tell they've absorbed a ton of the 303 because they have a totally different moist look, so I like to leave them that way, not rubbing them any dryer. And they're not sticky or tacky so it works fine.
I just lightly wipe the aluminum cross members after I've washed them. It leaves finger prints on metal surfaces like these, so I end up using a rag to grab and pack the cross members.
Same with the plastic & rubber engine bay bits...just wipe down with the 303 damp rag, and leave 'em that way.
I think the "wipe dry" instructions MAY be so it doesn't collect as much dust...I can see people complaining to them about that.