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Thread: Changing CV joints (front right and left axle assemblies)

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  1. #1
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    And some people thought the RCV shaft prices were to high! Looks like the bargain or the century IF it ever pans out.
    Billy Oliver
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  2. #2
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    So, it sounds like you had the entire empi long side. Yes those come with the tripod type joint. But if only using the short shaft it has balls.
    I am lifted and have done a bit of "light" wheeling a time or two...mine are holding up well.
    I think they will hold up till I get that 44 under there!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    So, it sounds like you had the entire empi long side. Yes those come with the tripod type joint. But if only using the short shaft it has balls.
    I am lifted and have done a bit of "light" wheeling a time or two...mine are holding up well.
    I think they will hold up till I get that 44 under there!
    Learned something new..
    "It's not sexual harassment, I am just building up your tolerence"-Dumke

  4. #4
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    Glad to be of service!

  5. #5

    Update

    Okay... apparently, no one has actually changed out an entire axle assembly, or at least hasn't come forward. As Tom4Bren said, it's much more involved than the simple 4-bolt, 1-retaining ring instructions for changing just the boots.

    Here's what I've found after taking it apart as far as I dared.

    A complete axle assembly is built like this:

    outer spline->outer CV joint->shaft->inner CV joint->cup (also called an inner housing)->inner spline

    Like Tom said, the CV boot repair instructions are helpful, but they leave the splines attached to the vehicle. This is because you can simply pull the inner CV joint out of the cup, easily disassemble it, and slide the new baffles on from that end.

    If you want to remove and replace an entire assembly, including the splines, a much more involved process is required:

    OUTER SPLINE: From what I can see, complete disasembly of the wheel is required. This probably will involve removing the brakes, removing that big honkin axle nut, repacking the bearings, etc. Unfortunately, I can't find anything here detailing this. Even the manual seems to be a little sparse.

    INNER SPLINE: You have to completely drop the differential to remove the inner splines and cups. There is already an excellent tutorial on this.

    Caveat: Depending on how much slack is present, you do not HAVE to replace the inner cup. You can simply purchase an axle assembly which stops at the inner CV (doesn't have the cup/inner housing), and reuse the prexisting cup. However, I've heard that the bearings in the aftermarket CV axle assemblies are smaller than factory, and will rattle around in the cup.

    I would expect however, that if only your outer CV joint is bad, and you've purchased an axle assembly without the inner housing, you could disassemble the new inner CV on on the replacement axle assembly and use the CV joint from the old one instead, couldn't you?

    I anyone has more information on removing the wheel assembly to get at the outer CV spline, I'd appreciate it.

    Thanks

    -Mike
    Last edited by mcaramb : 06/28/2011 at 08:13 AM

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcaramb View Post
    Okay... apparently, no one has actually changed out an entire axle assembly, or at least hasn't come forward. As Tom4Bren said, it's much more involved than the simple 4-bolt, 1-retaining ring instructions for changing just the boots.

    I have ... twice.

    Here's what I've found after taking it apart as far as I dared.

    A complete axle assembly is built like this:

    outer spline->outer CV joint->shaft->inner CV joint->cup (also called an inner housing)->inner spline

    The CV boot repair instructions are helpful, but they leave the splines attached to the vehicle. This is because you can simply pull the inner CV joint out of the cup, easily disassemble it, and slide the new baffles on from that end.

    If you want to remove and replace an entire assembly, including the splines, a much more involved process is required:

    OUTER SPLINE: From what I can see, complete disasembly of the wheel is required. This probably will involve removing the brakes, removing that big honkin axle nut, repacking the bearings, etc. Unfortunately, I can't find anything here detailing this. Even the manual seems to be a little sparse.

    No, you can disassemble the inner CV per the boot instructions - then remove the hub cover (6 allen bolts) - then remove 1 clip ring on the spline - then just slide the inner CV with shaft out of the hub assembly from the inside.

    INNER SPLINE: You have to completely drop the differential to remove the inner splines and cups. There is an excellent tutorial on this.

    Yes

    Caveat: Depending on how much slack is present, you do not HAVE to replace the inner cup. You can simply purchase an axle assembly which stops at the inner CV (doesn't have the cup/inner housing), and reuse the prexisting cup. However, I've heard that the bearings in the aftermarket CV axle assemblies are smaller than factory, and will rattle around in the cup.

    I have no response to that

    I would expect however, that if only your outer CV joint is bad, and you've purchased an axle assembly without the inner housing, you could disassemble the new inner CV on on the replacement axle assembly and use the CV joint from the old one instead, couldn't you?

    Yes, as long as the short shaft between the CVs has the same spline geometry at the inner CV.

    I anyone has more information on removing the wheel assembly to get at the outer CV spline, I'd appreciate it.

    Look in the Download Section for Kenny's bearing re-pack instructions. PM me if you can't find it & I'll send you the pdf.

    Thanks

    -Mike
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  7. #7
    Awesome that I don't have to completely take apart the wheel... will look at it today.

    Would you recommend changing the cups?

    What's the best way to test if they are hosed?

    The boots were sealed and were in perfect condition, no grit in the grease, there was a little play in them, but real little, and it might have just been total slack down the drive train to the diff.

    Would it be worth the effort of dropping the diff?

    I got my axle assemblies from O'Reilly (includes the cup). While playing around with it, it surprised the hell outta me that I was able to pull the inner CV right out of the cup by hand (boot still attached). I immediately pushed it back in and felt around for missing balls and didn't find any, so it looks like it went back together ok, but I don't know why they didn't put a retaining ring in their cup to stop that from happenning.

    Anyone have any experience with the O'Reilly assembly?

    UPDATE - I pulled the boot off the O'Reilly assemby to see if the shaft geometry matched my old inner CV (intending to keep the old bearings since I'm no longer changing the cup), and discovered why it slid out on me earlier. It's not an Rzeppa joint at all, it's a Tripod joint, thus completely a different architecture. The cup is a bit larger than the stock cup, so that should have given me a clue. I put it back together neatly and returned them to O'Reilly. I've ordered the assemblies from Autozone instead (without the cup). I'll let you know how well it matches up to the original stock inner CV geometry when they come in.

    -Mike
    Last edited by mcaramb : 06/28/2011 at 11:23 AM

  8. #8
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    BTW, here are some instructions for the clip ring you'll need to pull for the outer shaft removal:

    http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/manualhubs/

    You can run your finger along the grooves on the inside of the green cup. Rough with divets & grooves = worn; smooth = good.

    If the only play was associated with the outer CVs, then yes, you can probably re-use the inner CV components.

  9. #9
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    Both my right and left cv joints are bad and I am in the process of replacing. I came across this thread and just want to make sure I am understanding everything... I just need to purchase 2 of the EMPI off amazon and they will work either on the right or the left side? Thanks in advance!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jn View Post
    Both my right and left cv joints are bad and I am in the process of replacing. I came across this thread and just want to make sure I am understanding everything... I just need to purchase 2 of the EMPI off amazon and they will work either on the right or the left side? Thanks in advance!!
    They'll work as long as the the noise/vibrations isn't from the inner green cup. If the green cups are worn you'll need to drop the diff, remove the inner shafts, and source OEM replacements. It's worth checking before you order, I learned the hard way.

  11. #11
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    Thank you!!

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