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Thread: Remote Popper - IT WORKS!!

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  1. #1
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    Remote Popper - IT WORKS!!

    I've posted about this in a couple different threads, but FINALLY got the popper to work with the remote correctly, and not open with the door lock button driving down the highway. Here's how it works now: if the key is off, or out of the car, the second press of the remote will open the rear hatch - as will pressing the unlock button on either door (easy access - no key? press door unlock button). With the key in the run position, the power door lock buttons on the doors will not open the hatch, only the button in the glove box will open it (that way if the car is running, but sitting still you can open the hatch).

    Went in search of a diode, but I was told that a diode to withstand that wattage would be the size of a coke bottle! So I worked with an alarm installer at the shop and he drew up the diagram - worked like a charm. Used a $6 relay (by Directed Electronics P/N 610T - 30 amp). I don't know how to get the diagram posted here, but if anyone is interested, send me your address and I'll mail you a copy. If you'd like me to get a relay, I'll do that also.

    If you have good imagination - I'll describe it here:
    Pin 86 hooks to a second ignition wire (ign on) - I tapped the cigarette lighter wire coming out of the fuse block.
    Pin 87 takes the feed out from the popper switch in the glove box
    Pin 85 goes to ground
    Pin 87A goes to the second lt grn/blk wire coming out of the remote relay behind the drivers kick panel
    Pin 30 goes to the popper solenoid

    Now I've got to find another project!!

  2. #2
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    Hey send me that diagram (admin@etmnet.com) or if you want to fax it to me tomorrow just pm and we can do that.

  3. #3
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    Steve Eum...5350 biloxi ave, north hollywood, CA 91601...please send me a diagram..much thanks!
    Everything but the Girl (Story of me life, and a great band!)

  4. #4
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    Steve, I sent it to you today.

  5. #5
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    Sorry it took me so long to post. I had to work on a project most of the morning. I'll probably get mine all wired up this weekend. BTW, any chance you got it so the rear door wouldn't fire when you unlock the doors from the "door console"?


  6. #6
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    When wired as shown, the door panel unlock switches will open the trunk ONLY if the key is off or out of the vehicle. I like this feature, because I can open either door and just hit the switch to pop the trunk.

    If the key is in the run position, the door panel switches still operate the door locks but NOT the trunk. The only thing that will open the trunk while the car is running is the switch in the glove box.

    So, car off - second press on remote, or door panel switches unlock the trunk. Car on - glove box switch only.

    One thing a little misleading about my diagram above is the section showing the "door relay". The third wire down (lt grn/blk) shows going to the two door unlock solenoids and being split close to the doors. Actually, the passenger door lt grn/blk wire was originally attached to the bottom output on this relay. I cut it there and spliced into the top lt grn/blk wire right by the relay, then hooked that bottom wire to the new relay on pin 87A. Hope that's not too confusing!! It's actually a quick job, all the wires you need to splice and hook to are right there on the left side of the car. Took me less than 30 min, even with repeated tests and admiration time of my work
    Last edited by Raque Thomas : 09/24/2003 at 02:59 PM

  7. #7
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    is there a specific type of relay i would need to make this work? i plan on installing the popper kit this weekend and REALLY want to do this mod, but dont really know much about relays

  8. #8
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    I used a 30 amp relay that I picked up from a stereo shop. It's not special, just make sure it can gandle enough amps.
    "If you're not living on the edge --- you're taking up too much space!!"

  9. #9
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    You need a Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT) 30 amp relay.

    It is eaisest if you get one with a wiring socket.

    Like Raque said, any stereo/alarm shop should carry these.

    Here is a 10-pack SPDT with sockets on eBay.

  10. #10
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    haha this install is not going nearly as smooth as id hoped.. could someone give a description of where to find the door relay? i was down there and couldnt find an orange wire down there, or lt green/black, maybe im looking in the wrong place? does it come out of the alarm?

  11. #11
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    Hey could you please send me that diagram; email is fbarcelona16@live.com, many thanks.

  12. #12
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    what door ajar light are you talking about? from the pin switch in the rear of my VX I ran it to a green and red wire along the passenger side door sill

    when i first installed my popper the big problem i had is that the power to my relay just was not sufficient.. i wound up having to run a wire straight from the battery to the relay, i will see if i can find the diagram i used

  13. #13
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    On the stock Isuzu tailgate release button there is a light on the bottom of the button that is supposed to light up when the tailgate is open so you have a visual cue telling you that it is ajar.

    I wired the original door popper per Tone's instructions, but I ran a second wire from the pin switch at the rear door (that is tied into the wire for the light at the passenger door sill) so that the "door ajar" indicator light on the button would light up. The problem with that is when the ajar light is on it deactivates the button, so that if ANY of the doors are open I can't use the tailgate release button. I'm no electrician, and as far as car wiring goes, if it isn't spelled out for me and I try and add-lib it then it probably won't work. I think I'm going to try and disconnect the wire from the pin switch at the rear door to the ajar light and see if that clears some stuff up.

    If you have any kind of diagram that worked for you I would much appreciate it, even if you just spell it out (but pictures are usually better for me).
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  14. #14
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    its been a while, so im having some trouble remembering exactly what i did... i have friday off, so ill get down there and do some investigating if its not too cold

    mine will be a little different from yours though because i dont have the stock isuzu tailgate switch, i have a small momentary switch that i use instead

  15. #15
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    I wanted to resurrect this thread because a couple of people where asking about hooking up the rear door popper so it releases with an after market alarm. As you can see from above, Raque Thomas figured out how to wire the door popper in so that the stock Isuzu key fob would release it. The link to his wiring diagram is broken, so I used a printed version of the original thread that I had lying around and I CADded it up so everyone could have it if they would like to do this mod.



    I started this mod, but my wiring behind the dash is a little screwy thanks to the PO, so this is half done right now. It's wired now so that both doors unlock with one press of the key fob button, but I haven't wired the new relay in yet so that the second press opens the rear door. I'll get back to it soon though.

    Here's how it should work, according to Raque:
    "When wired as shown, the door panel unlock switches will open the trunk ONLY if the key is off or out of the vehicle. I like this feature because I can open either door and just hit the switch to pop the trunk.

    If the key is in the run position, the door panel switches still operate the door locks but NOT the trunk. The only thing that will open the trunk while the car is running is the switch in the glove box.

    So, car off - second press on the remote, or door panel switches unlock the trunk. Car on - glove box switch only."

    Enjoy.

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