I've posted about this in a couple different threads, but FINALLY got the popper to work with the remote correctly, and not open with the door lock button driving down the highway. Here's how it works now: if the key is off, or out of the car, the second press of the remote will open the rear hatch - as will pressing the unlock button on either door (easy access - no key? press door unlock button). With the key in the run position, the power door lock buttons on the doors will not open the hatch, only the button in the glove box will open it (that way if the car is running, but sitting still you can open the hatch).

Went in search of a diode, but I was told that a diode to withstand that wattage would be the size of a coke bottle! So I worked with an alarm installer at the shop and he drew up the diagram - worked like a charm. Used a $6 relay (by Directed Electronics P/N 610T - 30 amp). I don't know how to get the diagram posted here, but if anyone is interested, send me your address and I'll mail you a copy. If you'd like me to get a relay, I'll do that also.

If you have good imagination - I'll describe it here:
Pin 86 hooks to a second ignition wire (ign on) - I tapped the cigarette lighter wire coming out of the fuse block.
Pin 87 takes the feed out from the popper switch in the glove box
Pin 85 goes to ground
Pin 87A goes to the second lt grn/blk wire coming out of the remote relay behind the drivers kick panel
Pin 30 goes to the popper solenoid

Now I've got to find another project!!