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Thread: Remote Popper - IT WORKS!!

  1. #16
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    Diagram

    Sorry guys, my computer crashed & burned, so I lost the diagram - trying to slave the old hard drive, if I'm able to recover it over the next few days, I'll send it to you. The description in my origianl post may help you, particularly if you have a wiring diagram handy. Also, the guy that bought my car may still have the original diagram - I'll email him & see.
    "If you're not living on the edge --- you're taking up too much space!!"

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSHardeman View Post
    ... I see two white foam covered connectors and one foam covered metal cylinder with a white connector. Is the metal cylinder the relay? I've never seen one like that and I guess the reason that I didn't pay attention to it earlier was because I was looking for a black plastic cube shaped relay (like all of the others that I've seen). The cylinder does have the correct number and color wires coming out of it so I'm guessing that's it. Thanks Y33!
    I'm sure that's it. While it did look cylindricly shaped in the picture, I couldn't tell for sure because of the angle the picture was taken so I didn't mention it. Now we know though.

  3. #18
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    Did all of the wiring on this little project, but as usual, it doesn't seem to want to work for me. I got it so that both front doors unlock with one push of the button, but the second push doesn't do anything. Also, pushing the unlock button on the doors doesn't do bupkis, and when I push the door release button on the dash the dome light comes on, but the door doesn't unlock.

    I've always had bad luck with automotive wiring, because things never seem to work right the first time. I have the rear door popper wired into a stock Isuzu door release button, and I ran an extra wire from the pin at the rear door to light up the "door ajar" light. I think this posed problems from the beginning because if one of the doors where open, and the door ajar light was on, pushing the door release button did nothing. If the doors where closed, or if I held the trigger for the dome light down, the rear door would work fine. I'm hoping that this has something to do with the new set up not working. I'm going to remove the wire from the rear pin to the door ajar light and double check my wiring to the new relay. Hopefully that will fix everything.

    I'll report back later.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
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  4. #19
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    Hey could you please send me that diagram; email is fbarcelona16@live.com, many thanks.

  5. #20
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    what door ajar light are you talking about? from the pin switch in the rear of my VX I ran it to a green and red wire along the passenger side door sill

    when i first installed my popper the big problem i had is that the power to my relay just was not sufficient.. i wound up having to run a wire straight from the battery to the relay, i will see if i can find the diagram i used

  6. #21
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    On the stock Isuzu tailgate release button there is a light on the bottom of the button that is supposed to light up when the tailgate is open so you have a visual cue telling you that it is ajar.

    I wired the original door popper per Tone's instructions, but I ran a second wire from the pin switch at the rear door (that is tied into the wire for the light at the passenger door sill) so that the "door ajar" indicator light on the button would light up. The problem with that is when the ajar light is on it deactivates the button, so that if ANY of the doors are open I can't use the tailgate release button. I'm no electrician, and as far as car wiring goes, if it isn't spelled out for me and I try and add-lib it then it probably won't work. I think I'm going to try and disconnect the wire from the pin switch at the rear door to the ajar light and see if that clears some stuff up.

    If you have any kind of diagram that worked for you I would much appreciate it, even if you just spell it out (but pictures are usually better for me).

  7. #22
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    its been a while, so im having some trouble remembering exactly what i did... i have friday off, so ill get down there and do some investigating if its not too cold

    mine will be a little different from yours though because i dont have the stock isuzu tailgate switch, i have a small momentary switch that i use instead

  8. #23
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    I wanted to resurrect this thread because a couple of people where asking about hooking up the rear door popper so it releases with an after market alarm. As you can see from above, Raque Thomas figured out how to wire the door popper in so that the stock Isuzu key fob would release it. The link to his wiring diagram is broken, so I used a printed version of the original thread that I had lying around and I CADded it up so everyone could have it if they would like to do this mod.



    I started this mod, but my wiring behind the dash is a little screwy thanks to the PO, so this is half done right now. It's wired now so that both doors unlock with one press of the key fob button, but I haven't wired the new relay in yet so that the second press opens the rear door. I'll get back to it soon though.

    Here's how it should work, according to Raque:
    "When wired as shown, the door panel unlock switches will open the trunk ONLY if the key is off or out of the vehicle. I like this feature because I can open either door and just hit the switch to pop the trunk.

    If the key is in the run position, the door panel switches still operate the door locks but NOT the trunk. The only thing that will open the trunk while the car is running is the switch in the glove box.

    So, car off - second press on the remote, or door panel switches unlock the trunk. Car on - glove box switch only."

    Enjoy.

  9. #24
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    I use the key in mine. Works every time.
    '01 Kaiser SC'ed VX #0867

  10. #25
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    Dragging this up again. I know many of you have been waiting on pins and needles to see how this turned out.

    I FINALLY got this to work!! NO, I haven't been working on it since my last post. Stepped away from it for a while, then recently got the bug to give it another shot. Had a few wrinkles due to the fact that the wiring under my dash is a little different due to the previous owner, and I am using the stock Isuzu Tailgate Release button.

    So you don't have to read through everything:

    With the key out of the VX (and it's armed), one press of the disarm button unlocks both the driver and passenger door. Two presses of the disarm button triggers the rear door popper.

    With the key out of the VX pressing the unlock button on either door will also trigger the rear door popper. In eiter of these scenarios the Tailgate Release button will NOT trigger the rear door popper.

    With the key in the VX and turned to run, neither the key fob, nor the door unlock buttons will trigger the rear door popper, but the Tailgate Release button in the dash will.

    If you want to give this a shot, it's really pretty easy to do and I'd be happy to walk anyone through it.

  11. #26
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    Glad you got it working, sorry I hadn't had a chance to sit and figure out what was going on. What ended up being the issue?


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  12. #27
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    Unhappy

    @ MSHardeman...I'd be interested to know how you wired up this setup with the TGate factory switch. I could never get it to work properly

    ojmagg@yahoo.com

  13. #28
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    etlsport and ojmagg, it ended up being the factory tailgate switch itself. If you hook the output from the factory switch into the new five post relay per Raque's instructions the switch allows enough voltage to pass through (verified by my volt meter), but it must not allow enough amperage through to trigger the solenoid at the tail gate.

    I am no electrical guy AT ALL, so it took me a little while, and some reading up on how/what a relay does, to work through this. Right now my stock release button is wired through a four post relay, and from what I am finding out when you press the button a small current goes to the relay and "trips" it allowing a higher current to pass through the other side of the relay and triggering the solenoid. What I finally figured out was that I needed to wire the high current output from the four post relay (which would normally go back to the solenoid) into the input from the release button in the new five post relay on Raque's diagram. I'm sure that's not confusing at all.

    I would be happy to draw up the new wiring diagram and post it up or send it to anyone who would like to try this. I'd also be happy to talk anyone through it. Just shoot me a pm with a phone number and we'll have a popper party.

  14. #29
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    If you could post up the wiring diagram, that would be good...

  15. #30
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    X2 on that diagram.

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