Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Thread: Soldering fail. Ok... what am I doing wrong?

  1. #1
    Member Since
    Mar 2010
    Location
    2001 Ironman 0588
    Posts
    1,176
    Thanked: 0

    Soldering fail. Ok... what am I doing wrong?

    I wanna solder /connect two 18ga wires together but apparently I'm missing something important. I've watched videos & read instructions so I have learned to:

    * hold the soldering iron against the bottom the wires
    * let it heat 'em up
    * hold the solder on top of the wires and let it melt down through.

    My "practice" result: Nuthin'.

    I'm using thin (fine) 60/40 rosin core flux. Is the cheap, $15, 25w/750 deg soldering iron just a "hello kitty piece of junk"? Do I need to upgrade to something stouter?


  2. #2
    Member Since
    Sep 2010
    Location
    1999 white iron man 1728
    Posts
    118
    Thanked: 0
    If it's melting the solder,you might be having a contamination problem. Try paste flux on the wire.Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Former 00' Kaiser #0804, 98 White 4Runner SR5
    Posts
    3,761
    Thanked: 0
    yup, either paste flux, or dirty wires.

    try to wire brush the copper wires.

    i assume you are referencing multi-strand wiring when you say 18ga? not solid core?
    "Do Not Seek Praise. Seek Criticism."

    "If You Can't Solve A Problem, It's Because You're Playing By The Rules."

    "The Perosn Who Doesn't Make Mistakes Is Unlikely To Make Anything."

    -Paul Arden

  4. #4
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
    Location
    2000, Kaiser, #0016
    Posts
    645
    Thanked: 0
    If the solder just rolls off the wires, then they arent getting hot enough. Yes, they need to be really hot. Sounds like you might need a hotter iron. The iron will melt the solder WAY quicker than the wires will heat up enough for the solder to stick.

    My technique is to heat the hell out of the wires first then touch the solder only to the wires, not the iron. If the solder melts by only touching the wires, then it most likley will stick. But that sounds like what yer doing.

    Contamination may be an issue, but usually the solder itself has enuff flux to do the job. When in doubt, cut back more wire, strip again, and rough up the surface by scraping the bare ends with a knife, it may help. I've also had some pretty crappy solder at times too, so that may be at play here.

  5. #5
    Member Since
    Mar 2010
    Location
    2001 Ironman 0588
    Posts
    1,176
    Thanked: 0
    Thanks for the replies/help!!! In no particular order...

    Yes, I'm trying to solder multi-strand wire, not solid. So far I have been unable to get the solder to melt at all unless I touch the wire directly to the iron. I'm trying to use the method where I make the heat from the wire melt the solder and not touch the iron directly.

    I've been practicing before I go on to my real project so I'm using brand new wire with freshly stripped insulation. It's shiny & new - so does that rule out contamination?

    Does this all point back to having a wienie iron that just isn't hot enough? Should I get something heartier or just bail out and use a paste flux? How would I know if I bought a crappy solder (374 deg F melting point)?

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Former owner 2001, Foxfire Red, #0663
    Posts
    7,311
    Thanked: 33
    Quote Originally Posted by RickOKC View Post
    Is the cheap, $15, 25w/750 deg soldering iron just a "hello kitty piece of junk"? Do I need to upgrade to something stouter?
    hmm, I've got the Hello Kitty edition of the iron and I've had no problems at all.......and really like the pink handle, don't you?
    VX KAT
    ....the adventure BEGINS ANEW! ...2015......
    Remember that life is not measured in the breaths you take, but rather in the moments that take your breath away.

  7. #7
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
    Location
    2000, Kaiser, #0016
    Posts
    645
    Thanked: 0
    IMHO, yes your iron is not hot enough to heat the wires. The wires are dissipating the heat faster than the iron can keep up. You can try separating the strands of the cable to give them less mass so they will heat up easier, but then you end up soldering a few strands at a time then using a mass of solder to "glue" the solder joints together. I've used that in a pinch, but its not a good idea, more time consuming, and more likely to fail over time.

    Just get a decent iron. In a pinch a butane micro torch will also give you plenty more heat but harder to control.

    I dont think flux is gonna help much. Better solder may be a good idea.

  8. #8
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
    Location
    1999, Ebony, VX, #1679
    Posts
    8,422
    Thanked: 3
    Or you can get some solder splices.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
    My Sponsors:
    Accelerate3Coaching
    TriSports.com (PM me for 1 time use 20% off code)

  9. #9
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
    Location
    2000, Kaiser, #0016
    Posts
    645
    Thanked: 0
    Or crimp connectors.


  10. #10
    Member Since
    Sep 2009
    Location
    2000, Foxfire Red Mica
    Posts
    200
    Thanked: 0
    Oh how I hate crimp connectors.

    18AWG is not particularly robust wire, you should have no problem heating it enough for this to work with pretty much any cheap-o soldering iron.

    It's possible that the wires are contaminated, but dipping them in flux won't have much more effect than the 60/40 you're using, which already has a rosin flux core.

    I tend to only use flux when soldering copper pipe, as it really is useful when soldering with a torch. In my experience a torch--even the little creme-brulee making ones--are a little too hard to control and I just wind up melting the insulation and burning my fingers.

    I use a solid-core silver solder myself for all the electrics that I am working with, and I've noticed that it adheres a little better. I find the flux core is prone to sort of envelop the little bead of solder and make it want to slide off of my work; that could be what's happening.

    As well, as you're new to this, don't forget to slip the shrink wrap sleeve over one of the ends of wire BEFORE you do your soldering, or you'll be doing it all over again. It's the most common mistake I see when I'm teaching new students.

  11. #11
    Member Since
    Jun 2009
    Location
    2000, Kaiser, #0016
    Posts
    645
    Thanked: 0
    Quote Originally Posted by Hiredgoon View Post
    Oh how I hate crimp connectors.

    18AWG is not particularly robust wire, you should have no problem heating it enough for this to work with pretty much any cheap-o soldering iron.

    It's possible that the wires are contaminated, but dipping them in flux won't have much more effect than the 60/40 you're using, which already has a rosin flux core.

    I tend to only use flux when soldering copper pipe, as it really is useful when soldering with a torch. In my experience a torch--even the little creme-brulee making ones--are a little too hard to control and I just wind up melting the insulation and burning my fingers.

    I use a solid-core silver solder myself for all the electrics that I am working with, and I've noticed that it adheres a little better. I find the flux core is prone to sort of envelop the little bead of solder and make it want to slide off of my work; that could be what's happening.

    As well, as you're new to this, don't forget to slip the shrink wrap sleeve over one of the ends of wire BEFORE you do your soldering, or you'll be doing it all over again. It's the most common mistake I see when I'm teaching new students.
    Agreed on all points.

    I've been lucky enough to inherit some old school lead solder from my father (RIP). That stuff works the treat.

  12. #12
    Member Since
    Jul 2004
    Location
    2000, Kaiser Silver, 0196
    Posts
    497
    Thanked: 0
    A 25 watt iron is PLENTY big for joining 18 ga wire. If you've got a new iron, you need to tin the tip before you can effectively solder with it. Let the iron get really hot, wipe the tip off with a moist cellulose sponge then coat the tip with solder and wipe the excess off with the sponge. It should have a thin layer of solder all over it and is now ready for use. The tips on the cheaper irons are sometimes hard to tin for some reason. It sometimes helps to rough them up with some emery cloth first but I've run across cheap chinese tips that will not tin completely no matter how much flux and solder you throw at them. And 60/40 rosin core is perfect for your purpose.

    One thing I've found that speeds up the soldering process is to let the iron get good and hot then just touch it briefly with the solder to put a small drop of molten solder on the tip. Then place the wires in this drop, using it to transfer the heat. If you just place a dry tip on the wire there's not much surface area contacting the wire thus not much heat transfer. The goal is to transfer as much heat as quickly as possible. Quick heat transfer aids in localized heating so you don't end up holding the iron on the wire for 30 seconds heating six inches of wire and messing up your insulation (and causing your shrink wrap to shrink too soon!) . Using this method (very hot iron and drop of solder to transfer heat) it should only take a couple seconds to heat the joint enough to touch the solder to the wire and it will instantly flow. Hope this helps.

  13. #13
    Member Since
    Feb 2007
    Location
    2000 Proton VX - 0776
    Posts
    9,258
    Thanked: 0
    One last point - What is the quality of the wire?

    Good copper wire is easy to solder. Cheap wire can have a lot of other metals (especially aluminum) that can really dork up your soldering efforts. I recently tried to solder some cheapo jumper cable wires together & actually burned the wire before the solder could adhere.

    I don't agree that a butane torch is hard to control when soldering. Unless I'm working in a really tight area, I actually prefer to use one. When in tight areas though, I have a nice butane soldering iron that works really well.

    If the wire you are using is a good quality copper, then the solder and flux you can get from the plumbing department at Lowes/Home Depot works quite well. I've always had better luck with flux paste rather than relying on the 'stuff' they have in the core of the solder.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  14. #14
    Member Since
    Feb 2009
    Location
    1999,silver, 1516
    Posts
    905
    Thanked: 0
    I like to put the iron beneath the wires and then introduce the solder from above. Might need another set of hands if the wire isn't fixed though.

  15. #15
    Member Since
    Mar 2010
    Location
    2001 Ironman 0588
    Posts
    1,176
    Thanked: 0
    Hmmm, I have no idea if I've been practicing with low quality wire.

    Thanks again for all the tips. I'm going to try again tonight.

Similar Threads

  1. ABS fail - pad wear
    By WormGod in forum VX Troubleshooting...
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10/26/2015, 08:08 AM
  2. Tod Perfect Timing To Fail!! Help!
    By KISSMYAURA! in forum VX Troubleshooting...
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03/29/2012, 10:59 AM
  3. I never could've imagined this part would fail
    By deermagnet in forum VX Troubleshooting...
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08/14/2009, 07:50 PM
  4. Something wrong with 4WD?
    By edyavno in forum VX Troubleshooting...
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02/26/2003, 11:32 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
$lv_vb_eventforums_eventdetails