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Thread: 33s M/T - Questions

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99 View Post
    OK finally remembered and they weigh around 20#, this is with scales that are from the 70's, but they weigh me good.
    Wow, only 20 lbs each for a 1999 OEM 16x7 stock rim??? That sounds almost too good to be true.

    Can you please double-check the rim weight by holding it in your hands and standing on your home Bathroom Scale and then subtract your own body weight from the total??? It just seems 20 lbs might be a tad light, so please double-check at home with your Bathroom Scale to be sure. Thanx for your assistance.


  2. #47
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    I'll take to work and put on digital scales Monday.

  3. #48
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    OK on calibrated digital scale with the caps on it weighted in at 20.00#'s.

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowgizmo99 View Post
    OK on calibrated digital scale with the caps on it weighted in at 20.00#'s.
    A big THANK YOU for the verification. I'm totally amazed that the 1999 OEM 16x7 factory rim (with Center Cap installed) only weighs a featherlight 20 lbs. Simply incredible, and it's a full 8 lbs lighter than the 2000/2001 OEM 18x7 factory rim which weighs 28 lbs each!!!


  5. #50
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    I would take that extra 8 pounds any day.

  6. #51
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    JEEZ! Only 20lbs?!

    Man, that's a downer. I was thiiiiiiiis close to pulling the trigger on 18" KMC Monsters, which weigh more than TWICE that!

    And what's more, I was going to have them wrapped in 285/65 Nitto Terra Grapplers.

    Is it worth it??? I have OEM 16s on my '99, and they're in good enough shape, so do I just go with taller tires instead? I really like the look of the Monsters though.

    I can probably be talked off the fence in either direction at this point. Have at it.

    -V

  7. #52
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    I personally have a set up near 80lbs. No issues.

    Look for the "Post all wheels and tires" thread.

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHarris1385 View Post
    I personally have a set up near 80lbs. No issues.
    Yup, no issues until you come up on a grid-lock traffic jam on the freeway and try to stop those rolling 80 lbs of unsprung weight. CRUNCH!!!


  9. #54
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    Well, I'm due for new brakes all around anyway... mine are really mushy after having sat as long as they did.

    Guess I'll just add that to the list. *sigh*

  10. #55
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    Talking here we go again...

    Quote Originally Posted by Riff Raff View Post
    Yup, no issues until you come up on a grid-lock traffic jam on the freeway and try to stop those rolling 80 lbs of unsprung weight. CRUNCH!!!

    That's a very subjective dealio...my 35" mud grapplers have a shipping weight of 75#, with a wheel weight (centerline spec) of 26#...that's spec for my 20's.

    I just "bathroom scaled" my 18's (35x12.5 mud graps & c-lines) & they offer no improvement @ 80 & 22#.

    For whatever reason, during the long @$$ roll to SC & back, I didn't smuck into any grind to a sudden halt/gridlocked traffic, & there was PLENTY, what with road closures/detours/acci's/construction etc. I even managed to cut & thrust my way through big city traffic without ending up a statistic...

    However, I have a few advantages that the avg member looking to upgrade in size may not have...

    I'd have to say, the ability to drive 2-3-400 yds ahead of the vehicle helps the most (all the while NOT texting, yapping on a cel phone I don't own yet, or applying yet another layer of makeup), then stainless braid reinforced brake lines are also a factor, the third factor, which I believe to be helpful, is cross drilled rotors & fresh OEM pads...I was usually more concerned about getting rear end'd, than about what was in front of me.

    That all having been said, I agree with riff, unless you're willing to make some upgrades in braking performance, & turn off the phon etc...(you know...concentrate on the task at hand...DRIVING) you have a pretty good chance of becoming "just another number"...unfortunately, you'll probably take a VX with you...

  11. #56
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    Yep, as mentioned, I'm good for upgrading the brakes. No issues there. Any suggestions on rotors? I also prefer to stick with OEM pads whenever possible.

    As for the phone, eh, 'ow'yoooo doin? Not all a us New Yawkuz tawk on the phone while we drive there, guy.

    (Saw a bumper sticker yesterday that read "HANG UP BEFORE YOU KILL SOMEONE!" Love that.)

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vendetta View Post
    Yep, as mentioned, I'm good for upgrading the brakes. No issues there. Any suggestions on rotors? I also prefer to stick with OEM pads whenever possible.

    As for the phone, eh, 'ow'yoooo doin? Not all a us New Yawkuz tawk on the phone while we drive there, guy.

    (Saw a bumper sticker yesterday that read "HANG UP BEFORE YOU KILL SOMEONE!" Love that.)
    I'm sorry...

    I didn't mean for that to be taken personally by anyone...

    Just painting my experience with a broad brush.

  13. #58
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    And you'd be right in sooo many instances here, especially on LI. Not cool.

    As for me, I'm too busy paying attention to the RPMs, the drivetrain noises, the wig-wagging fuel gauge needle, the check engine light, you know...

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Riff Raff View Post
    Yup, no issues until you come up on a grid-lock traffic jam on the freeway and try to stop those rolling 80 lbs of unsprung weight. CRUNCH!!!


    Riff,

    Do you think the R1 cross-drilled/slotted "premium" rotors (http://www.r1concepts.com/isuzu-vehi...999-brakes.htm) with some new pads be enough of an upgrade to the brakes to handle the larger wheel & tire load I'm considering, or is there more to it?

  15. #60
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    Actually, it's tire diameter that has a much more significant effect on braking capability than unsprung weight. Unsprung weight is however significant in regard to bearing and shock absorber life. Here's a little light reading for you:

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_mass
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

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