VT_Maverick's 5 Speed Swap

[eternal21]

Buffy, I'm wondering if you could answer a question for me. I'm in the midst of my swap, and I had a question about the brake pedal assembly.





In the top picture, you have them displayed side by side, with the Vehicross pedal on the right, the Trooper pedal on the left. When I pulled the brake pedal bracket assembly there is a noticeable size difference, as well as a the bolt holes along the top not matching up. Obviously you got the Trooper pedal assembly inside. Did you a) disassemble the bracket assembly and just take the pedal arms, or did you b) somehow mate the entire pedal assembly in there by re-drilling the mating holes?

[tom4bren]

I didn't see where anyone had started a document on this mod so I took a cut at it. It only contains info in this thread & I think that Buffy had a lot of stuff he wanted to add to it. I still need to clean it up IRT layout & stuff but it's worthless to do that until all of the content is in there.

Word file is too large to post here. The attachment is a low res pdf so don't worry about the image quality for now (just the content). Y'all can just email me stuff you want added or I can try to find a FTP to post it to for all to access.

BTW, I'm missing some pix on page 34. If anyone has them, lemme know.

[tom4bren]

Hopefully sending the Word file to Buffy today so fingers crossed that a full write up will be forthcoming soon.

[bartmanS4]

Hey Tom,
I've got some more information that should go into this since I just did the swap.
1. The fuel lines from the Trooper will work. The VX connections are different towards the engine but just cut the rubber line before the connectors and install the same way they are on the Trooper with hose clamps.

2. Cruise control needs a constant 12v to go to pin 12 of connector B-9 at the cruise control module interrupted by the clutch switch. This can be done at either the CC module itself which is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side. This can be done by running two wires under and behind the dash splicing into pin 1 and 12 of B-9 and connecting to the lower of the two clutch switches. This is how I did it but it was tougher to do than I expected. Or you can run the wires from the clutch switch out of the firewall and down to the mode switch connector M-25 pins 5 (D) 12v and 7 (B) cruise.

3. Pins 1 & 4 of M-25 need to be shorted to start the car. I shorted them directly at the M-25 mode switch. The downside of this is the car can be started when the trans is in gear and the clutch is not depressed. No big deal to me but some people might not want that. To avoid this run these back through the upper clutch switch for starter interlock i.e. car can only be started with the clutch pedal depressed. Pins 1 & 4 are the two thick wires on that connector. Because I didn't do it this way I didn't need to run any wiring through the firewall.

4. Brake pedal doesn't have to be changed but it is too close to the clutch pedal in it's current state. I cut mine down to the size of the clutch pedal with a cutting wheel and now there is no clearance issues.

5. The only electrical connection that needs to go to the 5 spd tranny is for the reverse lamp. This goes from M-25 pin 5 (D) 12v and pin 2 (F) to the blue two pin connector on the tranny.

6. The shift indicator controller box can be removed. This is the small plastic box that is right above the alarm/keyless entry module in this picture.

7. Remove the A/T lamp from the instrument cluster to get rid of the shift light.

8. Try fitting the console over the shifter and running through the gears before doing any trimming as you may not need to do any at all.

That's all I can think of right now.

[tom4bren]

Thanks. I added it to the file. I was about to send the Word file to Buffy on a CD. I'll burn a fresh copy with this added info before mailing in case he wants to use any of the info.