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Thread: Need Help... CV/axle question

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    For those curious...I enquired at the local Isuzu dealer the cost of replacing both shafts (they would use oem) and it was $1600!.
    I often do that just to see how much I have saved,... though some job's I have done has caused me to ask myself if it was really worth all of the agro
    Greetings, Earthling. We come in peace... Never mind "Paris to Dakar", the VehiCROSS looks ready for the Martian desert.

  2. #47
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    Copy that Rowhard!

    Here's a good question....How do you slide the six ball bearings into the green cup without dropping the balls out of the retainer ring?

    Haven't done it yet, but it seems like a tricky one.
    2001 Ebony VX and 1989 Custom 383 Corvette

  3. #48
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    The grease will hold them in.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    The grease will hold them in.
    Thanks, that's what I hoped. Though I'm assuming you have to be careful and hit the grooves in the cup w/o jarring the bearing from the retainer.

  5. #50
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    Nah, the grease is thick and holds them in pretty good. Don't need to be overly gentle.

  6. #51
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    They also kinda "click" into the ball cage. Depending on wear, they shouldn't fall out too much.
    SilverBullet75
    Formerly: '01 Ebony VXSTLTH
    Now: '08 Saab 9-7x Aero 6.0L

  7. #52
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet75 View Post
    Note: after months of having the Napa shafts on, I don't recommend them unless your cups are replaced as well.
    Bad vibration since day 1.
    Ok, changing my opinion 180 degrees on the NAPA shafts!

    I just installed the HD torsion bars from Indy4x, and also lowered the front by 1 inch.
    Lowering plus 2 inches of Diff Drop put the front shafts back to horizontal/stock angles!

    I turned the TOD on today (I have an on/off switch). All is fixed! I had no clacking, vibration... nada!

    Back in business.

    So, lesson learned...
    The shafts need to be as horizontal as possible in order for the balls to ride in the cups properly.

    Anyone have the clacking issue on stock shafts while lifted?

  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet75 View Post
    Ok, changing my opinion 180 degrees on the NAPA shafts!

    So, lesson learned...

    The shafts need to be as horizontal as possible in order for the balls to ride in the cups properly.
    I kinda wondered....because I found out that NAPA uses A1-Cardone for their stock. While EMPI is touted as better (bigger balls?), I didn't think anyone had discredited the Cardone stuff as viable.

  9. #54
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    Wink

    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    While EMPI is touted as better (bigger balls?),
    One would certainly hope.....

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverBullet75 View Post
    Anyone have the clacking issue on stock shafts while lifted?
    Been lifted 2-1/2 to 3 inches for the past three or four years with stock shafts and no diff drop. Never had a clacking issue at all.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  11. #56
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    I swapped out my green cups and CV shafts with a lower mileage stock VX's OEM stuff and I had clicking while turning and it was starting to bind at speed as well and was causing the TOD to malfunction at 3.5-4" of lift (with diff drop brackets), but when I went back down to 2.5" of lift (with diff drop brackets) I had no more clicking while turning.

  12. #57
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    I'm getting ready to redo both halfshafts. (Both outer CV boots have been ripped for a couple of years (10k miles). So, I'm trying to gather/locate everything I need.

    I have two Empi halfshafts and spent some time looking for:
    • F rotors/pads (R rotors/pads too) considering slotted
    • F inner/outer bearings
    • wheel bearing seal and (rear) knuckle seal.


    I'm also wondering about whether the inner cup bands will need to be replaced. If so, what to use? (They don't come with the halfshafts, right?)

    Anything else I'm not thinking of?

    At this point in time, I'm planning on having Inland Truck do the work. They estimated $225/side after seeing right-ups provided from this great website! (Considering a move in residence and need for pituitary surgery asap,,,I'm thinking I should get this done for winter...and just in case.)

    Thanks to everyone,
    89V


    If it matters, my mileage is 87k.

  13. #58
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    Vette,

    The wear points are the inner & outer races & the bearings themselves. The cage shouldn't wear but if the joint has been running dry for a significant time then it could have wear as well. I'm not familiar with the Empi shafts so I don't know what OEM parts they are compatable with.

    Good luck with your surgery & relocation. A buddy of mine at work had similar surgery a few years ago with a quick recovery & no adverse effects. IIRC he had a small tumor on his pituitary gland.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    Put a smiley after you say that Bub.

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom4bren View Post
    Vette,

    The wear points are the inner & outer races & the bearings themselves. The cage shouldn't wear but if the joint has been running dry for a significant time then it could have wear as well. I'm not familiar with the Empi shafts so I don't know what OEM parts they are compatable with.

    Good luck with your surgery & relocation. A buddy of mine at work had similar surgery a few years ago with a quick recovery & no adverse effects. IIRC he had a small tumor on his pituitary gland.
    Recently, in another thread, I mentioned my confusion about the EMPI shafts having different size balls (bearings) than stock. This didn't seem possible/likely since they need to correctly mate to the "receiving end" of the joint. If not, I can't see how they wouldn't pop and wear inappropriately.

    I'm expecting the Empi's to bolt right in...and be compatible with OEM parts.

    I hadn't thought of anything like a race but I don't think any bearings are bad. Don't hear any of that type of noise anyway. I just want to have them on hand for the mechanic. And, for jobs like this, you always wonder if a new bearing race (along with any other reasonably-priced parts aren't better replaced during the operation.

    Speaking of operation,,,my tumer is getting pretty big. I think doctors let it go too long as it's over an 1" in diameter. Not looking forward to it...but know it's gotta be done. I appreciate the vote of confidence though!

  15. #60
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    BTW, if the kit did not come with the bands for the boots, the shop should either have some on hand or be able to get them. As an alternative, I used heavy duty zip ties on mine for 2 years with no problem.

    Either pick up or tell the shop that you want synthetic grease when they assemble the CV. Marine grease would be even mo betta.

    This might help you locate some of the parts you're looking for:

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