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Thread: Front and rear (rear) driveshaft joints are different?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleBeast View Post
    Ah I see. Well then great fix :-) Sorry I was assuming you were slightly lifted already.

    I lengthened the lower links almost a full inch and I could not see the threads, but then I lengthened another turn and you could begin to see the spline coming out of the rubber cover thing. I had the driveshaft place look at it and he said he can lengthen the shaft for me, so that is on my to do list.
    Keep in mind it comes out further when the rear axle drops during use.

    As for the fix, I wonder if I should post in the Talk forum. It would be interesting to see how many people might be ignoring this problem. The other unit I've driven in town also had some vibration in the rear (though I could only feel it vs hear it.) Seems like his could use a new u-joint or two. And, he's got a 3" lift with links.

    The other reason to post in Talk is I originally thought the characteristic vibration of the 6VE1 around 2200-2500 rpms was transmitting thru the drivetrain. I had a whole big thread on the vibration about a year ago. Any repost would serve to resolve that issue/thread.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    As for the fix, I wonder if I should post in the Talk forum. It would be interesting to see how many people might be ignoring this problem. The other unit I've driven in town also had some vibration in the rear (though I could only feel it vs hear it.) Seems like his could use a new u-joint or two. And, he's got a 3" lift with links.

    The other reason to post in Talk is I originally thought the characteristic vibration of the 6VE1 around 2200-2500 rpms was transmitting thru the drivetrain. I had a whole big thread on the vibration about a year ago. Any repost would serve to resolve that issue/thread.
    I dunno what percent of forum users refine their viewing to selected forum topics...

    All I know is, I go straight to the home page, & all active topics are right there to pick & choose.

  3. #18
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    Yeah, if you login often enough, the recent topics option is really the best. Probably not what prospective buyers see though. Initially, I looked mostly in the talk forum and the for sale forum.

    While I'm on the u-joint/driveshaft topic, I'd like to hear a bit about the front shaft and it's considerations. Also, it looks like it uses something else other than u-joints to perform the same task. Could someone tell me a bit more about that?

    Thanks!
    gp

  4. #19
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    CV joints on front driveshaft. I have an extra shaft sitting around somewhere, but I found no one willing to rebuild it, so I just got a better used one when both of the rubber seals (small boots) were ruined on mine.

  5. #20
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    Boy, they sure didn't look anything like the wheel halfshaft CVs. In fact, I don't remember seeing any rubber!

    Is this (front driveshaft) the type of CV someone was talking about adding to the rear driveshaft?




    BTW...I showed this forum's procedures on CV inboard detachment and front-wheel-bearing repack to the service manager at Inland Truck. This is where I had my rear driveshaft rebuilt/balanced. He said he would do CV boot or CV axle installs for about $225-$250/side. Sounds pretty darn good to me!

    Also, compared to EMPI's, I see CV halfshafts on eBay from Cardone. Oddly, they vary from $58 all the way to $175ish. (And, the $58 units say "NEW".) Why such a big spread? Is there a difference in this units? And, how do they compare to EMPI or NAPA pricing? IIRC, EMPI's are over $100. If these can be bought for $58, why redo a boot vs replacing the axle? Safer it would seem.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by 89Vette : 02/27/2012 at 09:45 AM

  6. #21
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    Wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by 89Vette View Post
    If these can be bought for $58, why redo a boot vs replacing the axle? Safer it would seem.

    Thanks!
    The OEM half shafts/balls/cages, are FAR more durable than most of the Chinese made aftermarket replacements...

  7. #22
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    OK...I want to hone that statement. Are you saying EMPI's are OEM quality while Cardone is chinese?

    Also, what if the halfshaft just NEEDED to be replaced? And, an owner wanted to choose between EMPI and Cardone?

  8. #23
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    Cardones that I have seen are all "new remanufactured". Empis are completely new. I payed about $75 for my Empis on Amazon.
    Billy Oliver
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  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Triathlete View Post
    Cardones that I have seen are all "new remanufactured". Empis are completely new. I payed about $75 for my Empis on Amazon.
    Looks like they are more now...
    http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-Axle-Asse...2001&carId=001

    These just say new....
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/A1-Cardone-S...item5648bfaff0

    OTOH, Summit's site shows direct ship remanufactured Cardone's (IF YOU SEARCH BY YEAR/VEHICLE)
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-60-1310/.

    OTOH, if you cut/paste Summit's eBay part # into Summit's site, I get a different listing showing the item as new -- but not for 2001 Isuzu. It does show 95-98 Trooper -- which I thought was the same CV axle as our VX.

    Note: The eBay link shows Summit as the seller. That's why I went directly to their site.
    Last edited by 89Vette : 02/27/2012 at 11:50 AM

  10. #25
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    After searching for these 2 different U-joints,
    Front U-Joint: Neapco part#: 2-0317 Rear U-Joint: Neapco part#: 2-0383.....
    Searched online. advance auto said they had them in stock, went there, N/A in computer.
    Finally found them in an Industrial supply house, Kelly Supply. in Grand Island, NE ..
    It was NEA 2-0317 40.75 , NEA 2-0383 27.34 , For the age of VX, glad Joints are still used out there...

  11. #26
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    They are a fairly common size, all a good driveshaft shop would need to do is take measurements and use a similar U-Joint with the same dimensions.

    I am having a custom rear driveshaft built right now. There will be a u-joint and CV joint on it.
    Last edited by LittleBeast : 09/27/2013 at 08:00 AM

  12. #27
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    I wonder if the front joint is from the Oldsmobile bravada? I think it used this BW case first. I had to use a trooper front joint when I ditched the tod case.

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